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@BLUE TII you also saved me a couple bucks with your earlier comment about the fender liner... I was actually about to buy some that I found on market place since my fenderliners were missing. Now it may seem like I may not need em just yet.
There is a wiring harness in the wheel well you will have to move upward to avoid contact with the tire over bumps.
Wheel well liners will keep the paint in your wheel wells and engine bay in better shape. Without wheel well liners the sand , gravel and water spray off the tires is attacking the paint.
The wheel well liner rub with 265/30-18 is the portion of the wheel well one can see from the engine bay.
Originally Posted by person
Big Props for not rolling your fenders
im gonna try! - gonna see how it fits first
.
Not rolling your front fenders with +38 offset is a mistake.
The tire sidewall will grab the unrolled fender lip when turning up an incline and pull it down creating a crease that cannot be fixed without bodywork and paint.
I have seen it happen time and time again to those that thought they could get away with it on this forum.
There are valid reasons for not rolling front fenders. In those cases one must use an offset close to stock 50mm, narrow tires and or lots of camber.
@BLUE TII thank you - I'll get those front fender liners for sure. Also thanks for that paint code - I have one part of the rim that has a slight rash that i want to coverup
I'm very much a DIY kind of person - Would you say if I buy my own tools for rolling the fenders would my own inexperience cause more problems for me in messing up the fenders?
Or is it a fairly straight operation with some youtube tutorials
(The rolling tool is only about $50-75, and i already have a heat gun)
I dont know how much fabrication/metal forming experience you have.
Gently heat the paint on the lip and the fender arch with a heat gun so it isnt brittle (just to the point you cant hold your hand to the metal long).
Move the metal gradually by going back and forth frequently and rapidly while exerting only moderate pressure with the roller wheel.
If you decide to try a "pull" instead of light lip roll, trim the metal fender liner mounting tabs off the metal fender lip so the lip is an equal width or the metal wont stretch enough at the tabs and you get the common on FDs D shaped fender arch.
Just roll the upper 90 degrees (45 deg in front and 45 deg behind the wheel center).
Start with the roller wheel almost horizontal to ground so metal fender lip doesnt cut into it. As the lip starts to fold, move the roller wheel so it is parallel to the angle of the outside of the fender.
Be careful to not put the roller wheel up in the arch too far so it hits the inside of the fender (make sure roller wheel only ever contacts the lip).
If/when the paint starts to crack on the lip you are rolling under despite your best efforts, scribe a line through the paint on the lip (where you cant see ot from outside) so the paint only cracks to that point and not out onto the outside of the fender.
Use touch up paint on the inside fender lip on any cracks or scribe line so it doesnt rust.
I dont know how much fabrication/metal forming experience you have.
Gently heat the paint on the lip and the fender arch with a heat gun so it isnt brittle (just to the point you cant hold your hand to the metal long).
Move the metal gradually by going back and forth frequently and rapidly while exerting only moderate pressure with the roller wheel.
If you decide to try a "pull" instead of light lip roll, trim the metal fender liner mounting tabs off the metal fender lip so the lip is an equal width or the metal wont stretch enough at the tabs and you get the common on FDs D shaped fender arch.
Just roll the upper 90 degrees (45 deg in front and 45 deg behind the wheel center).
Start with the roller wheel almost horizontal to ground so metal fender lip doesnt cut into it. As the lip starts to fold, move the roller wheel so it is parallel to the angle of the outside of the fender.
Be careful to not put the roller wheel up in the arch too far so it hits the inside of the fender (make sure roller wheel only ever contacts the lip).
If/when the paint starts to crack on the lip you are rolling under despite your best efforts, scribe a line through the paint on the lip (where you cant see ot from outside) so the paint only cracks to that point and not out onto the outside of the fender.
Use touch up paint on the inside fender lip on any cracks or scribe line so it doesnt rust.
I am patiently waiting for pictures of your new volks installed
I know its been a couple months since I posted. I've followed the advice on rolling the fenders to ensure the new wheels clear.
Fortunately I found someone local who rolls fenders full time and im glad to say that he did an awesome job.
Kept the body line of the fender and the work is stellar. He recommended I do it for both fronts and back so we did that.
Here is the car on jack stands right now with the TE's installed.
I decided to install some side skirts i've been holding on to while she's raised so I havent seen the full fitment yet, but should be done soon. It's been tough working in the garage with the mosquito's killing me lol.
I'll update when I have the car back on the ground. Here's to hoping they look good when done.
first time putting it on with sideskirts being test fitted
I bought 18x11 +45 Volk TE37 Saga S Plus to take the place of my 18x11 +45 Forgestar F14.
Requires coilovers, front fender roll and front camber.
I have run 285/3018, 295/30-18 and 305/30-18 front and rear so far.
Looking to try 315/30-18 next.
any photos of your rx7 with the te37s on it? I'm curious how it looks with the 18x11s as I'm trying to decide what to put on mine. Right now I have the TRM C4 in 17x9 +48 and there seems to be a ton of room for a wider wheel and tire setup.
No pics of my FD with the 18x11 +45 TE37s- havent even swapped out my 18x11 +45 Forgestars that are on the car.
Rotary Life
Im working on engine rebuild and single turbo conversion and keep getting monetarily side tracked by deals on things like my dream wheels and the next size up EFR turbo to try...
Yeah I get that. I just recently got my RX7, and have some higher priority projects to work on before the RX7 gets some love. I need to get the sequential turbo system fixed on the RX7, fix the shifter lever, and add better oil coolers then hopefully take it to the track next year.
07-01-23, 06:01 PM
