The database is intended to reflect the price a car sells for, not what it's listed for, as such it shouldn't be on the database until it's sold. In saying that, it's also a voluntary thing. We are not combing internet ads and putting cars in the database with their asking prices. We are relying on the community to voluntarily provide the details of the car they sold, including pricing, modifications, mileage and date of sale, so we can get an idea of what's going on in the market.

Nick

 

Another interesting thing to look at are intervals on BAT when no FDs have been listed. It seems like when there are gaps, the first or second cars that come up sell for more money, all other things being equal. Last spring when the FD market was heating up, the cars that sold later in the cycle, or when multiple FDs were listed, seemed (to me) to go for slighly lower money. Not sure if there's any correlation, of just my gut feel?

 

I've gone ahead and done a little bit of work in Google Sheets to aggregate some of the data. If you scroll down, under the entries, there are some total aggregate numbers and a few basic averages showing what a 1993's average cost is, for example. I've done the same for mileage.

LINK: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Will add shortly an average price by year on a second page, as it's a bit cluttered on the same sheet...

Nick

 

Meh... A very nice thing about a 100% stock FD is that it is extremely quiet. But that is as far as it goes because due to the pre-cat, the stock boost pattern is 10-8-10-8 (yes it goes back down) and the acceleration past 70 MPH is quite underwhelming. The FD is just waiting to be uncorked and IMO a third gen is best with a few bolt-ons and at stock boost. Relatively fast and you can beat on it all day without a care in the world.

 

YEP! it's the perfect sports car with just basic bolt ons which will give it 300 rwhp and a 2700 pound fighting weight. Take it one step further with simplification and you add even more reliability and drop another 100 pounds.

Here's a decent recipe from my SSM base that I sold last year and recently repurchased. This car is sooo much fun to drive

Suspension:
NEW koni yellows, NEW pillow tops, NEW H&R springs 1000
NEW front and rear RB sways 400
Upgraded front sway mounts 250

Exhaust:
M2 down pipe 300
SMB midcat 750 (or more)
PFS catback 500

Engine:
OEM original factory engine that pulls hard with good vacuum no leaks etc...
PFC with OLED commander 1000
PFS (ray wilson tuned) dynoed 343 at 14psi on dynojet 400
rear main seal replaced, oil pan resealed
99 twin turbos (less than 20k miles at this time) 2800
New coils, wires and hks twin power 500
SS OMP lines 150
Lots of misc hoses sensors and controls replaced

Cooling:
M2 medium smic 1000
M2 carbon fiber intake 500
r1/r2 dual oil coolers 400 (complete with all OEM fitting brackets and ducts)
Davis/mazdacomp radiator 600

Fuel:
1300cc secondaries 400
Supra TT pump 200
FPD deleted
All fuel lines replaced and upgraded (absolutely NO LEAKS)

Interior:
Overall very good condition 8 out of 10
AC needs a recharge (will work for about 12 months after charge so there is a leak somewhere in the system)
Nothing missing or broken or everything working as it should
99 steering wheel 300
94 consoles
New OEM shift **** 175
Nice Kenwood stereo system 500
Defi boost and water temp gauges in a dual center channel pod 400

Exterior:
R1 front lip 125
Shark tooth mod (see picture)
aluminum door handles 200
Rotary extreme hood struts 125

OVER 13k in UPGRADES plus labor $$$$$$

Reliability:
Simplified sequential so now there are only 4 solenoids including both turbo control (pressure and vacuum) in the rats nest along with the turbo control wastegate and wastegate precontrol. Double throttle removed and blocked off. The upper intake manifold can be removed in less than 5 minutes and from there everything is easy to get to so any needed solenoid, coil, OMP lines (SS OMP lines in place) repairs etc... are seamless. AST is deleted and done the right way with the nipple and line on top side of fill neck. LOTS of hours were put in to these mods which make it so much easier to work on and diagnose any future problems.

 

Boy, I can remember when that was basically my car before need for speed.

 

YEP

Pretty much the same and a great way to mod these cars. Just keep it simple

Now that said your current car is a long way from this or what it used to be and hella faster

 

Hagerty doesn't provide a chart for the FD, but they are tracking the TII and show a bump about 3 years ago. Not doubling though. I imagine the FD has been along the same track. Most of that increase has just been the overall economy and market.

 

Really nice FDs have always been 20k plus. Sure you can always find a deal but typically they sold for 20 to 25k. Very low mileage cars (under 20k) have sold for 27 to 30k for many years.

Today it would seem even barn find cars (not maintained/driven and just sitting in often times not the best places) with over 50k miles are selling for 27k which is really cool and absolutely without question puts this car in an elite classic/collector group.

A barn find might need:
gas tank cleaning
electric work and interior cleaning from rodents, insects etc... you know turn the AC or heater on and be like WTF....LOL
tires
brakes
rubber hoses/really anything rubber LOL
paint
etc...etc...
At the end of the day it could be a real PIA to deal with. I've owned lots of really beat up FDs (parts cars) and from a business stand point that car was very close to a parts car and it sold for 27k....

5 years ago that's a 12k FD so that puts some perspective on values or the fact that your doubling theory does hold true for some cars. Remember though in order for that car to be nice it needs: paint, tires, maint (hoses/belts/brakes etc...), faded plastic parts replaced (likely both interior and exterior parts) etc..... so in the end you are much better off spending 40k for a low mileage well kept car.

I do believe BAT is the best place to sell this type of car at this time. It seems to be gaining a lot of traction with collector types who just want to fill a spot (and there are clearly lots of spots for the FD at this time) and are not that particular.

I'd say overall values are up 10k for nice cars and 5k for standard variety. If you put the work in you may even get 15k more or say 45k for a low mileage nice 94. Prime example would be the SSM R2 (top 5 desired FD) that was bought by the dealer for 29k and sold for 42,500. That's a huge profit of 40% in 6 months on an old car, impressive to say the least. It's also to important to use this car as an example because we all know how hard the original owner tried to sell it, what he sold it for etc...etc... and it all happened over the course of 1 year. So really the value of that particular FD is 30 to 42k. In other words values are not up 12k in 12 months it's just a matter of paying too little/deal or paying too much/really want it. I don't expect a bunch of FDs to just suddenly start selling for 40k plus unless they are very low miles (under 20k). The only car currently for sale that I can think of at this time that could easily bring that sort of money is the CW PEG on ebay. Personally I'd much rather buy a car from ebay than BAT just because of the fees alone. On BAT the BUYER pays 5 percent. So really the 94 barn find sold for close to 27k.......OUCH!

Also lets not forget that sometimes sales are not finalized so there's always a chance we'll see the 94 touring listed again soon.

 

If you saw my (recently sold) car in person, I dont think you would rate it as a #2. It was as pristine and complete as they get,

 

Maybe you're right. Your car is/was great. The price reflected that. And, we could debate the in and outs of the ratings system. But, the mods and mileage would preclude from concourse contention, and that's what #1 means to me. There's plenty of debate about whether you'd even want a #1 rx7. But, reliability mods don't take home hardware at pebble.

 

I wanted to put forth an idea for discussion - a quick read didn't uncover a specific examination of this, so apologies if I missed it. I see lots of references here about valuing low mileage & low mileage cars bringing the big sale prices - what about higher mileage but fully restored FD's? We're starting to see more and more restoration/preservation builds of FD's with OEM/'99+ parts (several examples in the build section currently) and it seems to me that a FD is definitely one of those cars you'd want to think twice about purchasing if its just been sitting for long periods of time. I suppose with regular-enough intervals of exercising, some fears of dried out rubber, seals etc. could be abated, but we all know that not being driven (enough) is usually not the best treatment for many, if not all cars.

Think of it this way - the youngest USDM FD is now ~23 years old. With, say, 5k miles a year of pleasure driving as a fun car, you're at 115k miles which is still very low for a ~'95 car. I'd be curious to know what the opinions here are of pricing a restored/restomod 100k chassis mile car with new rubber throughout, retrimmed interior, fresh suspension, brakes, motor etc. vs. a sub-40k mile original/untouched 23-25 year old FD.

I'll admit to having a stake of at least curiosity in that I have a '94 with 88k on the chassis that I paid high teens for, and have been amassing a full suite of OEM, '99+ and tasteful mod parts in preparation for a full resto-mod process. I don't intend to sell the car for a long, long time if ever, but having spent a lot of time in the Supra world, where this same conversation has been nearly exhausted by now, I'm curious to see if the same trends apply to the FD. In the end, I think condition trumps mileage - just my opinion, worth what you paid for it - what's yours?

 

Stop worrying too much about resale value and enjoy your car . I feel like alot of people are building/ restoring their FD just to resale later for the next guy to enjoy. But i do understand the feeling of knowing your car is worth alot of money and continue rising in worth is a wonderful thing

 

No worry here - the car will be driven and used once complete - road trips, autocross, etc. Resale value is just about the last thing on my mind, but I've always had an interest in the market trends of 90's Japanese iron.

 

The higher the miles the more variables. So no way to put any value on this conversation without using an example.

Here's an example. I sold this one last year for 22.5k (i paid 21k and drove it for a year or two). I'd say today it's probably a 27k FD if you really put in some effort to sell it. It sold it in 2 weeks because it's was a great deal.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ained-1114006/

 

 

Already did

 

 

This:

I have always said that I bought my car for myself to enjoy and that I'm not a storage facility for the next guy.

But anyway, if you really want to know what extremely meticulously maintained but higher mileage FD's pricing is going to look like, look no further than the american 60's and early 70's muscle cars. From what I can tell low mileage cars that just about have been completely restored brings in the most cash but I've also noticed that if the entire car has been reworked the mileage takes a back seat. The same thing can also be said for completely restored and modded with quality components.

But note those cars are either 50 years old or close to it so overhauling them is a must and therefore those types bring in the most. FD's aren't that old yet so sellers can still rely on original parts with having done almost nothing to the car other than just driving them once every other sunday and still get a premium. But IMO those days are numbered and I'd say in about 10 years even a sub 10K mile FD is going to require a complete suspension overhaul and quite possibly more.

 

amen..
id rather talk about how she entered oak tree at vir or how fast she approached the blind crest at midohio... than talk about how much shes worth at the round table...

 

Yep there is no other car I'd rather drive through t11/12 than my precious FD

 

 

How about some pictures of the exterior, interior and engine bay?

 

 

Has Petite provided a warranty on their engine work and, if so, would they allow you to transfer the warranty?