I have a 89 auto vert. and i was working on cleaning it up today. Got finished with it tonight and went to move it across the street. I started it up as usual, it fired/ran, i remembered i had to do something so i shut it off, so it far for a total of 5-6sec. i got dome with that took less than a min actually(should of left it running ). I went to start it back up it fired once, i let of the switch and it stopped. i figured i jumped the gun and let off ignition to soon since it was cold out. I went to start it back up and it cranks but never fires. i let it turn 10 or so times, nothing happened so i left it for an hour or so and tried again cranked for 20 or so time and still nothing.

So i was wondering if this odd chain of event with the cold weather(32ish) would of caused it to flood? I have never had any probs in my last few years of ownership and this kind of took me by surprise.

Thanks

 

Turning it off after only 5 seconds could make it flood. For a few seconds at startup the ECU pushes the rpms to 3000 and adds extra fuel.

Pull the EGI INJ fuse (under the hood), floor the pedal and crank to clear the flood. Replace the fuse and try to start it.

 

100% it's flooded. Do what was posted above. If that dosn't work search deflooding procedure and you'll get her going.

 

well that didn't work, neither did taking out the trailers and cranking and reinstalling. but i noticed when i took the plugs out that had a lill build up on them so i ordered a full set and i will install them tom. and see how that goes. and if that doesn't work i don't know lol.

edit: I guess its pretty flooded cause the plugs i pulled were very wet. So i guess i will pull ALL the plugs and crank it to make sure all the fuel is out.

 

Yea, pullin' the fuse didn't work me either so I started it with the gas pedal to floor and it started right up. Don't "pump" it just out it to the floor and try to start it. Make sure if it does start you take your foot off the gas.

 

and if ASim's suggestion doesn't work push start.

 

I think he posted above that his car is an automatic so that's not going to work too well.

You might need to get some oil into the rotor housing to help with compression. You can put some in the leading spark plug holes (the lower ones) or some engines have a large vaccume line on the UIM that would allow oil to fall stright down the intake ports. If you have read up on "the ATF trick" this is it but regular motor oil will get the job done with less adverse effects IMO. A thicker oil will work best, 15-40 or 20-50, although i've done it with 10-30 with success too. This might be all it needs.

 

lol i wish it were that easy.

 

2-stroke in the leading (lower) plug holes should do the trick if you are flooded.. wait for those new plugs, then add oil and start. Should just be a matter of building compression back up. How tired is your engine?

 

You could push it to 40mph...

Time for a manual swap?

 

102,000 or so but it was rebuilt a 80,000.

 

A series five will self unflood by holding the pedal to the floor. When you do that and hold the key to Start, fuel is not injected but you still have spark to burn off the excess fuel in the chambers. It's a combination of the ECU seeing the START signal from the key and the ECU seeing a TPS fully extended (narrow range).

 

well i got the new plugs, only lowers, because the shop didn't realize even after i told them that there were two diff ones. i did the deflooding proced. many times till i pulled the lover plugs and they were dry. so i in staled the fuse plugged the plugs in and cranked her over. i fires, i know its firing i can hear/feel it but it never runs, so ill giver her a break and try again in a min when starter cool and bat charges, gotta love optima. any ideas why she wont run, maybe cause the tops are still craped up??

Also the plugs i pulled were nasty, maybe contributing to my sight power loss over the past few months?? There was build up and the tops and in some of the gaps. I do red line it every now and again on the road but maybe just cause they are old.. don't know lol.


Edit: Update! I went back and tried again and still the same thing fires but wont start. I pulled the plug and it was wet but no more that i should be i wouldn't say so its getting fuel but i don't think its flooding. I cranked it with my foot to the floor and it didn't seem to fire as much as when i cranked normal, so i would say its not flooding. But like i said it fires all over the place but wont start so ill wait till tues. and put in the tops and see if that works.

 

Well since i had some extra time in between cool down time, checking plugs letting the battery recharge, and regaining my patients, i made a key chain out of one of the old plugs. and also if you look at the last pics i guess that bit of melting or something at the top means that they needed to be changed. I have neglected to replace the plugs since i got it, and i guess I'm paying for it .

Edit: and if you are wondering that is the original key that came with that car. And even though i have 4 extra copies the original is the only one i ever use.

 

Now that you have her sputtering like that, get a bit of oil in the rotor housings. A few ounces of 10-30 will get the job done. It just needs a little more compression. Make sure your outdoors or you can pull it out doors right away when she fires cause you are going to fill your neighborhood with somke.

 

Should i use the oil before or after i get the top plugs in? And, not to sound rude, but why does it need oil to build extra compression compared to a normal start up?

Thanks

 

you need the extra oil now, because once you have flooded a rotary engine it washes away the oil film that was on the housings during normal operation. which results in lower compression and is why it wont start... when a rotary engine floods its much different then what happens in other types of engines...
you wont regain that oil film for good compression untillt he engines running again, or you inject your own oil

 

Once you pull ou the fuse FRom under the hood, THERE IS NO REASON to push the gas pedal to the floor.... That is a process for R-tek ecus.

U simply pull the fuse out and let the engine turn for about 30 seconds. Then reinstall the fuse and it should crank.

ANd yes it works because my car floods everytime I stall out do to running my FPR too high. But i Do this aleast once a week. CAsue i have a gay 6puck clutch that a pain in the ***.