so-mars

my front windshield wipers only work on setting I
they dont work on intermittent, mist, or II

the front spray works and the back spray works

but the back wiper doesnt work at all


same exact behavior in BOTH full switches

the guy that sold me the recent switch array says its 100% fully working



anything i should check before i snail mail him a pipe bomb for being a nefarious lying sack of donkey ****?

willardgoobody

on the back wipers, if its not the switch check on the drivers side trunk strut. it has the connectors to the motor. mine are broken off and out of place so my rear wipers dont work.

Suiicidalpenguin

Mustn't be the switch then. Follow the wires on the harness connecting to the switch, they may have worn out and grounded.. or even be broken in general.

so-mars

yeh i find that buying things off e-bay is sketchy at best tho

i could probably figure it out a little easier if i had some idea why 'Low Speed' works and the rest don't

not so sure i appreciate the FAQ here alluding to replacing the switch when there are a ton of people here selling parts either

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

http://mazdamark.com/

CyberPitz

Mines bad because the relays, or so I think...

Suiicidalpenguin

I havn't gone over that harness so far but , assumingly, each speed should be on a different wire. Which if there is a problem with thus wires would just stop it all together. (And I know the whole Ebay thing :-\ baught a saposedly "perfect" window switch... the board was cracked, side was melted, and the words and shyte where worn down. Blah some curtain rod holders, wire snips, and some heat... yay all better! )

so-mars

yeh but why would so many people have problems with everything but 'Low Speed' being broken if its wiring... i mean i'm going to look in the manual to check the other side of where the wires go.

but i am leaning towards this dumbass sold me a bullshit non-working switch.

coz of the 3 things i've bought on ebay so far this month 2 of them were bullshit
i've got a full set of cylinders and latches supposedly in full working order and for any fc3 and the driver side cylinder is just as shot as mine was last month before it died completely, and the ignition switch while it's nice and tight does *NOT* work on any FC3 because it's not compatible with the car alarm models

and the only thing that was probably straight legit was 2 side power mirrors white non-aero and some dipshit who didnt participate in the entire auction for a week bought them nefariously in the last 120 seconds when i had no possibility of bidding again, who i am praying every day for his entire car to ******* die and his *** to bleed out with hemorroids no joke

Icemark

probably a bad switch, send it too me and I'll confirm it just for the cost of shipping it back to you...

Or I can rebuild it for you... send me both and I'll knock off the $25 the price to rebuild one and send you back a rebuilt working switch.

If it really is anything else... it would be the wiper motor.

There are two speeds to a wiper motor. Fast and Slow.

The switch however uses High, Low and intermittent. Intermittent and Fast use the same wire at the motor, while slow uses a different wire.

so-mars

i checked the manual for the front motor wiring circuit test... first time using a multimeter but i did 20V check on L terminal wire and was getting like 11V or so

checked the same thing for continuity on B terminal and was getting random numbers from about 20 to 100 ohmish

tried checking the rear circuit but not sure which of the three settings the middle switch needs to be in.... bottom middle or top? to have both front and rear activated

already paid $56 for the new switch plus $12 shipping and the guy didnt even send 4 pieces of it so its not a full set regardless of whether it works lying pos (name will be forthcoming as soon as i figure out for sure its a bad switch)

Icemark

The switch is only one piece and a cover. Not sure what you mean by the 4 pieces of it unless you are thinking the ***** are part of the switch (which they are not- you need to order them separate from the switch if buying a switch from Mazda).

I have ***** as well, though, if you need those.

so-mars

nah the guy put a pic up of the entire thing including ***** ie: misrepresentation

not to mention one of the metal lock-in fasteners was missing which isn't a part of the buttons its a part of the switch

besides, who the hell scraps cars and keeps some of the useless parts?
my door handles i bought didnt even include the nuts to secure them in place

i think either all mechanics are freakin retards or they drink too much smoke too much weed or have shitty taste in women and hence hate life and ruin everything for everyone else too

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Generally speaking, people only keep the main parts with the assumption that the buyer still has the nuts to attach it. Not trying to be mean, just saying how it works. I parted a car and didn't keep any of the nuts, at least not with the part.

so-mars

u had to take off the freakin nuts to get the part off wtf wouldnt u immediately put them back on the bolts just to keep them from going to a landfill or letting your dog eat them or whatever else????

still need someone to verify that i'm use the multimeter right, as i have no freakin clue first time

so-mars

nobody knows how to use a multimeter? :o

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

That's not entirely true: I have great taste in women.

And that's all I have to say about that.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Try looking where the wires go to and try applying 12v directly through the harness to the motor, if that works then obviously your switch is bad.

HAILERS

Sorry, but the wiper motor is looking for a ground from the switch to make it work. Power is always there. See the wiper diagram and it makes sense.

Like the man said, there are two wires, that when a gnd is applied to them, makes the wiper motor work. One wire is Blue/White the other is in the wiring diagrams. See free online FSM for its color.

HAILERS

By the way, both wiper switches are bad due to the same relay being bad inside them. Have someone fix the switch/switches or buy a new one.

so-mars

the 'apparent' colors referred to in the manual don't even remotely match up with mine :p

the front harness has i think 6 slots and 5 wires... i tested two of them as i stated up above but i dont know if those results are accurate?

how do i test the other 3 wires?

and how do i apply 12V w/o killing myself or destroying something considering i have no clue?

i need to test this a.s.a.p. so i can send this switch back to this damn fool this week and deal with either getting my money back or flying out to texas to torch his car

so-mars

yeh this is what i think but i need to test every way that i can so when i ask for my money back there will be either no b.s. or his car will get torched
i can only torch it if i think my karma wont get hit in the process heh

so-mars

ok so im looking at the Circuit Diagram... which is cracked out and mostly useless :|

but can someone help me with this so i dont wreck something... what kind of wire should i use to hook to the battery?

HAILERS

Yeah that picture makes sense.

That view is looking into the wiper jack with the plug off.

If you look at the plug, the BLUE wire is the source of power. THat would be the bottom far right position.

Then the ground(s) are the wire just above the Blue. That gnd wire is colored Blue with a White stripe.

The other ground is the one next to the LW (blue/white). It's color is BLUE with a RED stripe.

So if you have power gong to the BLUE and then put a gnd on the L/R OR L/W wires, the motor will whip back and forth.

Frankly it's best if you remove the wipers from their arms when you do this OR lift the arms up so they rest in mid air. If left to run across a dry window its hard to tell which is faster, putting a gnd on the L/W or the L/R. If left in mid air you can hear and see them move distincly faster in one position vs the other.

What I've done in the past is leave the plug on the motor. Turn the key to ON. Then using a spare piece of wire that is bolted to a good chassis ground, I insert the other bare end of that wire into the L/R or the L/W sockets of the plug with THE PLUG STILL CONNECTED TO THE MOTOR.

In other words backprobe the L/W and the L/R one at a time and watch the wiper blades move back/forth.

I never have pulled the plug off then attach a power wire to the bottom right pin on the motor and then apply a ground to either the pin just above the power position and then later apply the gnd wire to the one next to it. It should work like that. Maybe I need to read the manual someday.

HAILERS

I just grabbed three pieces of spare wire and crimped on three female connectors and then put the wires on the wiper motors jack like in the picute. I used a set of jumper cables to supply the wires with pwr and a gnd.

Wet the windshield down and applied the gnd to the LW then the LR. There is a noticable difference. The LR is the fast speed. Be sure to wet the windshield down. Key to ON.

so-mars

hey its raining i dont need to wet down the windshield!