Windshield replacement?
06-14-07, 05:40 PM
#1
Windshield replacement?
Anyone done a windshield replacement and how hard?. Mine split like 4 inches and, I guess from heat , propogated about two feet further while I was in work. Also I'm wondering if the 'garnish' identified in the FSM needs replacing too. i have a 90 Convertible. Thanks.......
06-14-07, 08:27 PM
#2
The moulding at the top of the glass **should** be replaced since the butyl in its channel will be stuck on the glass and partly inside the moulding as well - and thus it won't stick too firm to the new glass.
Its really not a tough job, just very labour intense for someone who doesn't have the proper tools.
You'll need to do this with piano wire unless you feel like investing $200+ for a penumatic air knife or an Equalizer. You can buy piano wire at places like Carquest/Napa/etc. While you're there pick up two tubes of windshield urethane as well as their respective primers for pinch weld and glass.
Remove the side garnishes, windshield wipers and cowl panel. Then the apillars from the inside since you're using the wire. Take a utility knife/what not and poke/work/cut/slice a hole through the urethane that is between the glass
and the pinch weld. Then slide one end of the wire through. Tie each end to aq wrench or whatever is sturdy and fits and bribe a friend over to help for beer.
One man inside one man outside, saw that bitch out. I recommend pulling the wire along the urethane seam as opposed to simply across in a cutting motion. This will allow for easier guiding of the wire and faster cutting.
Cover any edges of the body as required while cutting. And utilize a piece of body metal on the inside between the dash and the wire.
After its out, install the moulding on the glass, prime the full edge of the new glass, prime the bare metal spots ONLY of the pinch weld. Caulk, and drop it in. I recommend cutting the tip of the caulking tube in a reverse V shape to allow the urethane to build in a vertical, steep pyramid so that it contacts the glass 100% of the perimeter.
Its really not a tough job, just very labour intense for someone who doesn't have the proper tools.
You'll need to do this with piano wire unless you feel like investing $200+ for a penumatic air knife or an Equalizer. You can buy piano wire at places like Carquest/Napa/etc. While you're there pick up two tubes of windshield urethane as well as their respective primers for pinch weld and glass.
Remove the side garnishes, windshield wipers and cowl panel. Then the apillars from the inside since you're using the wire. Take a utility knife/what not and poke/work/cut/slice a hole through the urethane that is between the glass
and the pinch weld. Then slide one end of the wire through. Tie each end to aq wrench or whatever is sturdy and fits and bribe a friend over to help for beer.
One man inside one man outside, saw that bitch out. I recommend pulling the wire along the urethane seam as opposed to simply across in a cutting motion. This will allow for easier guiding of the wire and faster cutting.
Cover any edges of the body as required while cutting. And utilize a piece of body metal on the inside between the dash and the wire.
After its out, install the moulding on the glass, prime the full edge of the new glass, prime the bare metal spots ONLY of the pinch weld. Caulk, and drop it in. I recommend cutting the tip of the caulking tube in a reverse V shape to allow the urethane to build in a vertical, steep pyramid so that it contacts the glass 100% of the perimeter.
06-14-07, 09:25 PM
#5
The upper window moulding can be found at Mazda, or you can simply use a section of universal channel moulding. Most glass places such as apple/speedy etc. will have boxes of this around, simply cut off the length you need and bob's your uncle.
06-14-07, 10:00 PM
#6
piano wire is the SUPER HARD WAY to remove a windshield.
the easy way involves LOTS of windex (or whatever) sprayed all around the edges of the glass (from both sides if possible, but just from the inside works)... and then a utility knife with the blade out all the way. Make multiple passes, and keep pushing (gently, I use the top of my head while I'm cutting), you can have the window out in about 5 minutes with zero chance of breakage.
the easy way involves LOTS of windex (or whatever) sprayed all around the edges of the glass (from both sides if possible, but just from the inside works)... and then a utility knife with the blade out all the way. Make multiple passes, and keep pushing (gently, I use the top of my head while I'm cutting), you can have the window out in about 5 minutes with zero chance of breakage.
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06-15-07, 08:24 PM
#8
Wow, looks like I could really screw this up if I did it myself. Maybe i'll inquire on a pro replacing it/ So I'll need to buy the upper molding and garnish. I'll have to re-think this doing myself-I didnt realize it was so complicated. thanks for the info.
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