will bars engine block leak stop a coolent burning problem or is there one that will work

also can you just put new coolent seals in or do you have to rebuild the intire motor?

some one please help im broke

 

If there is coolant burning, You blew a seal. Only one way to fix a blown seal. Now reasearch a how to rebuild my motor thread.

 

ok

now can i just put a new seal in or is it going to have to be a compleat rebuild?
thanks

 

any sort of block seal will work to TEMPORARILY patch the problem up if you need to get around town for a few months, but you will need to rebuild your motor as earlier stated. ww.rotaryressurection.com has a small write up on what your looking for with the block seal.

 

so than a compleat motor rebuild than not just the seals for sure do you know why dose it kill the apex seals by washing the oil off? the motor is fairly new

 

DUMP THE CAR
It'll only give you headaches that you can't fix right now.


-Ted

 

I was always under the impression that any type of leak block substance was bad no matter where it is put. apparently they work by layering over rough surfaces and building layer upon layer over themselves. This means that any rough surface it contacts will begin a buildup of this gunk. I may be wrong but imwas always warned against this.

 

it isn't a good idea but it is a temporary fix if you plan on dumping the engine or car soon.


not that i suggest you use the method to con someone but it may help keeping it running in the meantime.

 

well i didn't actually see it answered but...yes a complete teardown of the engine is required...but if the engine is "fairly new" (by this i assume you mean fairly recently rebuilt) then you probably only need to replace all the gaskets and rubber seals. Of course you want to check to make sure everything is in spec, but if it has low miles on the hard seals then i see no reason to replace them. Although on the other hand, while you have it torn down, its not a bad idea to replace everything.

So its up to you to rebuild the entire engine, you'll have to have everything apart so rebuilding it all the way isn't a big deal, but if you're on a budget just get all the gaskets and rubber seals. You can find one of those kits for roughly $200. But expect to drop another 2-3 hundred on various other parts when you do rebuild. Theres at least $100 in supplies, then probably another 100-200 in tools and various replacement parts you don't think of right off the bat.

 

thanks im quesing that burnig water would cause really bad hesitation and loss of power?

 

This forum has threads about coolant loss that will keep you busy for days.
Coolant loss doesn't always mean blown seal. Check all your connections ie: heater hose, water pump, turbo? coolant line, radiator leak etc.....
Before you do that, when the engine is cold , take off the radiator cap, pull out the EGI fuse and crank the engine. If you see cooant gushing out the radiator, you have a bad seal and that means rebuild.
If you use block seal or any other sealant, you cannot re-use the housings. So, if you plan on buying a used engine then go for it.

 

which one is the egi fuse and were is the coolent line??
and i got white smoke when its cooled and all the seaches i did lead to coolent seal
is that the seal in between each housing?
its a n/a

 

yes coolant seals are between each housing. 4 inner and 4 outer per engine you do the math as to where they go, it's easy. and just like someone said if you're gonna replace the seals the engine does have to come out and be torn completely apart. if it's a high mileage engine you might as well replace the apex seals and some other soft seals in the engine along with the coolant seals. and the egi fuse is located under the hood on the driver side strut tower inside the black box with a fuse diagram on top. so just use the diagram and pull the right one.

 

I'd check your water pump, water pump housing, and manifold coolant hoses. Especially the back iron coolant passage. Check the firewall hose too. PRessure check the cooling system for leaks.

If all else fails, get Irontite ceramic sealer. That **** rocks. I guarentee it will stop that mild coolant seal leak!

 

When you start it up and white smoke comes out, usually it is a coolant leak into the combustion. The smell is sweet smelling. From what you have posted so far, it looks to be a blown seal.
The EGI fuse is in the fuse box in the engine bay at the passenger fender side.

 

Dude, you starting Thanksgiving early?
Unless you have a J-spec FC3S and the passenger side on the left, the fuse box is on the driver's side...


-Ted

 

That's what I said....drivers side. LOL