Who does porting??????
#1
Just cruising
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Who does porting??????
Does anybody know who I can send my end irons to to have them ported correctly? I need the front and rear irons ported or at least checked to see if they are ported correctly.
ash
ash
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#8
Rotary Freak
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The port face is only half the port job. You need to work the port tunnel to match the new port face. It should have a nice ramp shape towards the opening and closing sides.
What you need to do is put the plexiglass in place and trace the side seal path. The end of the side seal has to be supported. If the end passes over the port unsupported it will drop into the port and crash into the top edge.
What you need to do is put the plexiglass in place and trace the side seal path. The end of the side seal has to be supported. If the end passes over the port unsupported it will drop into the port and crash into the top edge.
#9
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I mentioned it in your other thread, I'm pretty sure those irons are completely trashed thanks to the past person who had no clue what they were doing.
I'd pick up a nice set of used stock port irons and send out to one of the many reputable shops out there..... I just finished porting a set of irons with our Stage 3/single turbo streetport that're going in an engine destined for Washington state
I'd pick up a nice set of used stock port irons and send out to one of the many reputable shops out there..... I just finished porting a set of irons with our Stage 3/single turbo streetport that're going in an engine destined for Washington state
#10
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The port face is only half the port job. You need to work the port tunnel to match the new port face. It should have a nice ramp shape towards the opening and closing sides.
What you need to do is put the plexiglass in place and trace the side seal path. The end of the side seal has to be supported. If the end passes over the port unsupported it will drop into the port and crash into the top edge.
What you need to do is put the plexiglass in place and trace the side seal path. The end of the side seal has to be supported. If the end passes over the port unsupported it will drop into the port and crash into the top edge.
So, you are thinking that the distance between the intake port and the water seal has been cut back too much? Or, that the port is just too long?
#11
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Getting another set of irons is surely an option. I have so much money in this 7 now that a couple of more irons won't matter much.
Be nice if I could find somebody that has a set that could also do the porting. Shipping cost just add up so fast. At some point, I'll just have to give up on this engine.
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Getting another set of irons is surely an option. I have so much money in this 7 now that a couple of more irons won't matter much.
Be nice if I could find somebody that has a set that could also do the porting. Shipping cost just add up so fast. At some point, I'll just have to give up on this engine.
Be nice if I could find somebody that has a set that could also do the porting. Shipping cost just add up so fast. At some point, I'll just have to give up on this engine.
You should have possibly sent the irons out to be ported in the first place. You're located in West Virginia... See if Goodfella will port them up in New Jersey, or even Rotary Resurrection down in Tennessee. I am sure you could always find someone closer if you're worried about shipping costs.
#13
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You shouldn't give up. This will all be worth it in the end... I've spent way too much money on my build. And that has a lot to do with cutting corners, lack of patience,
You should have possibly sent the irons out to be ported in the first place. You're located in West Virginia... See if Goodfella will port them up in New Jersey, or even Rotary Resurrection down in Tennessee. I am sure you could always find someone closer if you're worried about shipping costs.
You should have possibly sent the irons out to be ported in the first place. You're located in West Virginia... See if Goodfella will port them up in New Jersey, or even Rotary Resurrection down in Tennessee. I am sure you could always find someone closer if you're worried about shipping costs.
#14
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The original porting was crap so I bought a set of irons on here and then one of them proved to be cracked, after I had already installed the engine.
#15
Rotary Freak
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Use the plexiglass, trace the side seal paths, and see the porting limits. The secondary port you showed in the picture looks like the opening edge (side closest to the water jacket) might be wrong. It looks like the port opens too early. The distance between the water jacket and the opening edge of the port is not large enough. The trailing side seal might be unsupported towards the top of the port. Also, the top of the port might be at the wrong angle. The top of the port should be shaped so that the leading side seal crosses in increments and not all at once. This lets the side seal move into the groove on the rotor smoothly. If you use a piece of plexiglass you can see that part of the leading side seal crosses the port unsupported. You can see this in the picture I posted. That black line doesn't touch the red all the time. For part of the time the leading side seal is just hanging across the port face. The red is actually all inside the port face.
Cut a hole in a piece of plexiglass for the e-shaft. Cut two smaller holes for the dowels. Trace the port face onto the plexiglass and cut it out. Half assemble the engine like in the picture I posted and rotate the engine. Watch how the sideseals pass over the port face. Trace them with a pen or marker. The leading side seal must pass over the top of the port with a "scissor" action. The trailing side seal must be supported at all times. These two things are very important.
Cut a hole in a piece of plexiglass for the e-shaft. Cut two smaller holes for the dowels. Trace the port face onto the plexiglass and cut it out. Half assemble the engine like in the picture I posted and rotate the engine. Watch how the sideseals pass over the port face. Trace them with a pen or marker. The leading side seal must pass over the top of the port with a "scissor" action. The trailing side seal must be supported at all times. These two things are very important.
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I was told that the engine had been rebuilt by a rotary shop in FL that's the reason I didn't ship them out to start with. I just assumed that the porting was done correctly. I've had this engine entirely installed in the 7 twice already. If I every get it re-built and put back in that will the third time I've installed it.
The original porting was crap so I bought a set of irons on here and then one of them proved to be cracked, after I had already installed the engine.
The original porting was crap so I bought a set of irons on here and then one of them proved to be cracked, after I had already installed the engine.
#19
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I tried to find a street port template from somebody reputable but no luck. So I ordered a new one from racing beat. I'll check the intake ports with the template. If they aren't totally messed up I'll ship them out for street porting.
If they are really messed up I'll probably just replace the two irons and go with OEM porting.
If they are really messed up I'll probably just replace the two irons and go with OEM porting.
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#22
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If the porting isn't already completely messed up, I think I will attempt to do the porting myself. Sounds like a perfect learning opportunity but I'll also have to know when to quit and call in the professionals. Good iron are getting harder to find and costing more.
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL
ashley
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL
ashley
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