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whats are some good cheap shocks?

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Old 10-14-07, 01:38 PM
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**** it, you're a waste of my time.
That just made my head hurt.
You're just spewing diarrhea out of your mouth right now.
You go on my ignore list.

Oh BTW, I set up ALL my cars for suspension first, power next.
In fact, my FC has a stock turbo on it.
Duh

Wrong again.
Strike three.
You're out.


-Ted
Old 10-14-07, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RETed
**** it, you're a waste of my time.
That just made my head hurt.
You're just spewing diarrhea out of your mouth right now.
You go on my ignore list.

Oh BTW, I set up ALL my cars for suspension first, power next.
In fact, my FC has a stock turbo on it.
Duh

Wrong again.
Strike three.
You're out.


-Ted
?? chill man, that post wasent directed at you or any body else for that matter, i was just stressing the importance of propper order, not saying your set up is faulted i dont even know your set up.

my car as well now has a stock turbo, nothing wrong with that,

and not to further fluster you, i quote myself saying, brake, internal safey, then suspension.

but its no biggie man, relax, im not saying im completely factual, theres some opinion in my posts, human bias?

u ceritainly seem creditable concerning posts of yours ive read, its not a dick mesureing contest dude.

im doing the same as you, trying to help a newer member of the fourm create a better(correctly) functioning 7, not spitting poopy out my anus, or starting internet beef dawg og trippin lo g my *****, aint fucksin to boss up old head, nah mean
Old 10-14-07, 02:12 PM
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edit: o and btw ive read everything on your site, its good stuff man
Old 10-14-07, 02:13 PM
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Old 10-14-07, 02:32 PM
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Putting stiffer shocks on the car won't make it crash and burn. Just because some dumbasses crashed while street racing doesn't mean that it was the fault of the suspension. It probably would have failed no matter what. The fact is the factories sell kits like that for their new cars. You can go out and get stiffer shocks and lowering springs for an RX-8 or many others. If it was a problem they wouldn't sell them.

Plenty of people run setups like AGX's and lowering springs with no problems. I HIGHLY doubt anyone would ever have a problem with that unless it was going to fail anyway due to rust and age. That should be replaced no matter if you've got stock or other suspension.

On my car aside from the exhaust, intake and a CDI, it's got stock power (NA). I've got coilovers, sways, bushings, strut brace, a custom lower arm bar in front, rear camber adjustable subframe link, individual rear camber adjusters, and a roll bar (race seats and harnesses are coming next year). I upgraded to the 4 pot front and vented rear brakes with SS lines and a brake master cylinder brace and I run Porterfield R4 pads at the track. I've got 225/45/17 Bridgestone RE-070's (STi tires) on 17x8's for the street, and at the track I use 225/50/15 Hankook Z211 race tires on 15x8 wheels. So whether it be on the street or at the track I've got way more handling, grip and brakes than I do power.

You = fail.

I'm done, argue all you want to empty space.
Old 10-14-07, 02:44 PM
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Well to answer the thread starter, i'd say get the tokico blues, they are the most inexpensive aftermarket shock, cheaper than oem, last for a while if you arent too hard on them. Only slightly firmer than stock though.
Old 10-14-07, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Black91n/a
Putting stiffer shocks on the car won't make it crash and burn. Just because some dumbasses crashed while street racing doesn't mean that it was the fault of the suspension. It probably would have failed no matter what. The fact is the factories sell kits like that for their new cars. You can go out and get stiffer shocks and lowering springs for an RX-8 or many others. If it was a problem they wouldn't sell them.

Plenty of people run setups like AGX's and lowering springs with no problems. I HIGHLY doubt anyone would ever have a problem with that unless it was going to fail anyway due to rust and age. That should be replaced no matter if you've got stock or other suspension.

On my car aside from the exhaust, intake and a CDI, it's got stock power (NA). I've got coilovers, sways, bushings, strut brace, a custom lower arm bar in front, rear camber adjustable subframe link, individual rear camber adjusters, and a roll bar (race seats and harnesses are coming next year). I upgraded to the 4 pot front and vented rear brakes with SS lines and a brake master cylinder brace and I run Porterfield R4 pads at the track. I've got 225/45/17 Bridgestone RE-070's (STi tires) on 17x8's for the street, and at the track I use 225/50/15 Hankook Z211 race tires on 15x8 wheels. So whether it be on the street or at the track I've got way more handling, grip and brakes than I do power.

You = fail.

I'm done, argue all you want to empty space.

why do i fail?

i agree with your setup in its entiretry, you went the right way, if you plan on auto x, i would get on top of the harness ordeal though. paying attention to relitivily over looked parts like bushings s what im saying, you however dident over look that,

no offence, but you are comeing off like you have nothing better to do that start problems via fourm, its unnessicary.

his coils where new, and he wasnt your avarage dumbass kid, he was a pretty damn good driver, stupid for not wareing his belt though.

the margin of error on cleaper parts, is higher than those of quality built products, meaning the fail rate is more likely on an agx vs a olihs coil

and just cuz they make lowering springs for the 8, dosent mean their are not draw backs, lowering springs on stock struts it real bad for your car any way you think about it.

and btw, they also make those vornado metal fan blade things for the rx8 that claim that the crate a vortex type suction that makes forces the air into the uim, and eletric motor s/c kits that go in after he airfilter, truth be told, they actually obstrict air flow by 10-25 percent, and decreace the hp, and tq out put as well as increace engine temp.

like i said to ted, chill bibbs man

i myself am begining to become contentious, so just chill the **** out
Old 10-14-07, 02:50 PM
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You have 174 posts, so I think you should read more than post for a bit longer, the whole posting thing isn't working out too well yet.
Old 10-14-07, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TehMonkay
You have 174 posts, so I think you should read more than post for a bit longer, the whole posting thing isn't working out too well yet.
actually all that mean to me is i learned in tech school, worked in shops, and observed others who are scary talented do some of the things i talk about, insted of reading among a mix matched group of people who know and simply dont

for every 30 members on this vast fourm 1 knows what there talking about.


post count is nothing
Old 10-14-07, 03:01 PM
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i plan on doing some drifting, maybe race a few civics... ****** wisconsin ricers. but yes relating to your guys argument or w/e u wanna call it. im doing suspension FIRST.

also i had a question that was never answered, i have 18" rims. does anyone know what kind of drop u get with the rsr lowering springs? bc if i drop my car 1 1/2 " the tires will be rubbing

also it was not me who put 18's on it.. idk what optimal rim size is but im assuming 18 is too big if i cant even drop my car.

ANYONE? thx for all help so far much appreciated, and know that you ARE helping.
Old 10-14-07, 03:09 PM
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they hit about 110, he bit a small curb, blew the front strut mount that stoped the car abruptly, the on account of no seat belt he flew outta his sun roof, went in the path of the srt4, that guy in the srt4 alone with his 3 passengers, ran his body over, locked up the wheels went through a building and everybody died except the guy driveing the srt4, hes now facing 4 counts of manslaughter and hes only 19, an one of the passengers was his girlfriend.
Your post is NULL because of the amount of "dee-de-dee" going on there. If only one thing was different, or thought of, then the whole event would turn out differently:


Mistake 1: hitting a ******* curb at that speed because he did not know how to drive properly and lost control.

Mistake 2: not wearing a seatbelt (how dumb can you be?) How many times do they tell you that in driver's ed class? I bet the 3 people that died in the Dodge were also not wearing theirs.

mistake 3: Having the windows and sunroof down while doing something dangerous. It's so common to hear of people flying out a window, a sunroof, etc in a normal highway accident, much less a race. Besides, you get major drag, and that makes you go slower (if you dont care about the rest.)

Mistake 4: drumroll please......... STREET RACING!

Mistake 5: The SRT driver racing with passengers in his car: if you're gonna be an idiot, do it by yourself! Don't drag people down with you.

Mistake 6: The guys who got into the SRT4 when they knew that they are putting themselves at risk.


Because of all this, not one person who died in the accident has the right to blame anyone but their selves for being stupid. althrough, I do I send my condolances to the familes of the victims, I know it must be hard to loose a child, a freind, or a lover.


EDIT: Mistake 7: Driving an SRT 4... (Ok, I kid, I kid!)

Last edited by Asterisk; 10-14-07 at 03:17 PM.
Old 10-14-07, 04:47 PM
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^ no doubt stupidity was a factor in all of this, (seat belt, passengers, ect)

the point i was tryin 2 make was that if u wanna go faster, you should scale every aspect p to that desired speed, much like they do at the factory for these purposes.

no part about this was funny, and its not ment for you to laugh at, the guy in the acura was a friend, and ive raced with the guy in the srt4 a few times.

yo can be just a dude at the track, or tommi mackinin himself, accidents happen, what he hit wasent factor enough to cause what happened, part failure was a big factor, wheel hubs dont come of that easy, expecially if its the other side that dident even hit anything.

if im wrong, stupid, retarded, in spreding caution in diy setps, than whatever, **** what you think, i wont be cryin if something similar happen 2 you

as for the op, good choice on going with suspension firts, just know theres mor than lowering springs and struts.

o and 18s will fit with rsr springs, depending on sidewall width, if yo live in a place that snows(which yo do) sell/trade for some 17s, or invest in a winter set

if yor potholes are as bad as michigans, you will go through those 18's everytime you turn the key, expically if there forged, yo might pull it off with cast 18s in wisconsion
Old 10-14-07, 06:08 PM
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Often, I have found lowering springs to raise the ride height over the sagging stock springs.
Old 10-14-07, 06:17 PM
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+1 tokico blues.
Old 10-14-07, 06:56 PM
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enough already, borrow a hacksaw and a jack and chop a coil of each one=

cheap lowering spings ftw
Old 10-14-07, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by blwn rtr 89'
enough already, borrow a hacksaw and a jack and chop a coil of each one=

cheap lowering spings ftw
You have been of no help whatsoever to the original poster. You did not answer his question, you haven't given him any advice or help. I'll bet you don't even remember the original question without looking at the top of the thread. All you have done is run your mouth and show your *** while completely trashing his thread. You have also trashed just about everyone else on the thread. You have argued incoherently with some of the most knowledgeable members on the forum. You have no manners, net or otherwise and little to no apparent knowledge. You write like you are drunk (which you proudly admit), illiterate or maybe both at once. And these are your more endearing traits.

If I was a mod, I would have warned you via pm after the first post in this thread.

It is painfully obvious that you don't have any help for the OP, so why don't you leave his thread alone and quit making it all about you?

Best regards.
Old 10-14-07, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by carbonRX
my car still has original shocks from 86 and when i drive down the road i kinda wobble becuase the front left and back right are more shot than the other two.

ive been looking at these http://www.cardomain.com/item/KYB741025?vq_id=none + thinking tein type S.
Eibach Prokit springs and AGX shocks make a very nice combo. I don't think that anyone has mentioned that the AGX adjuster **** is on the base of the rear strut making it easy to change with no tools and without breaking into your interior trim. The other types, Tokicos and Koni's require you to access the adjuster at the top of the strut shaft.

Even tighter budget could be quite happy with Eibach and Tokico Blues. These qualify as good cheap shocks. The Eibachs springs are out of production, so if you cannot pickup a set used, then you should look into Racing Beat springs.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/h4586-92.htm

Any spring that lowers more than an inch will probably require some method of camber adjustment.

If your car is bouncing around on the road and you are on a tight budget, go with the Blues and spend a little of the money saved on a new bushing kit. Those old oem bushings are pretty shot by now.

Good luck with you car and I hope you have better luck on clean straightforward threads in the future.
Old 10-14-07, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jackhild59
The Eibachs springs are out of production
http://eibach.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.exe...81643100026681
http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/eibachfc.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=H-5513140
http://corksport.com/store/category/...rx-shocks.html
http://www.racinglab.com/mer2002upccl.html
http://www.coximport.com/EIB-5520.140
http://www.prostreetonline.com/pnsku/5520.140.asp
http://www.raceinspired.com/p-2026-e...1986-1992.aspx
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/...t_springs.html

Old 10-15-07, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jackhild59
You have been of no help whatsoever to the original poster. You did not answer his question, you haven't given him any advice or help. I'll bet you don't even remember the original question without looking at the top of the thread. All you have done is run your mouth and show your *** while completely trashing his thread. You have also trashed just about everyone else on the thread. You have argued incoherently with some of the most knowledgeable members on the forum. You have no manners, net or otherwise and little to no apparent knowledge. You write like you are drunk (which you proudly admit), illiterate or maybe both at once. And these are your more endearing traits.

If I was a mod, I would have warned you via pm after the first post in this thread.

It is painfully obvious that you don't have any help for the OP, so why don't you leave his thread alone and quit making it all about you?

Best regards.

listen fartman, obvoiusly u cannot read, as for my manners they are considered higher up than most, even those with high post counts, you guys flame up on bitches like theres no tommorw.

i did give the op advice ill make shure you can see it

GO FIND YARD SHOCKS, UNTIL YOU CAN AFFORD SOME JIC MAGIC FTL-A2'S LINK SEEN HERE http://jic-magic.com/ViewProduct1.aspx?ProductID=33

IF YOU ARE WILLING TO ATTEMPT SOMETHING AWESOMEhttp://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=14548.0

USE THIS AS A GUIDE, YES THEY ARE AFFORDABLE

NOW BEING YOU SAVED YOU MONEY AND PAINFULLY KEPT THE STOCKERS, GO AND BUY SOME MOOG TIE RODS, AS FORE BUSHINGS MAZDASPEED MAKE THEM, BUT THEIR CRAPPY IN THE BIG ASPECT, I DONNOT REMEMBER THE COMPANY I GOT MINE FROM, I WILL GET BACK TO YOU ON THAT,, NOW FOR PRODUCTION SWAY BARS TANABE IS GOOD ON ACCOUNT OF THEM BEING ALL AROUND THICKER COMPAIRED TO MOST OF SIMILAR PRICE, THEN SOME LOWER SUPPORT BRACES, CUSCO MAKES SOME, THOUGH I CANNOT ASSURE YOU IF THEIR QUAILITY

THATS WHAT A SAW WELDER AND SOME DESIGN IS FOR

THESE ARE WONDERFULL THEY HELP YOU DRIVE, (EXCEPT THE GREEN ONES)
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=11791.0

AND LAST IF YOUR CAGE DOSENT PROTUDE THROUGH YOUR FIRE WALL, FAB UP A TRIANGULAR SHAPE BRACE FROM A-PILLAR AERA TO ABOUT MID FENDER(ABOUT 1.12" OF CLEARANCE .75" RECTUANGULAR STEEL IS BEST. )
FOR THAT EXTRA, NO DIP OR BODY ROLL CONVEINCE..............DONE RANTING

i know what ive listeed isnt easy, might be over kill, but thats what id do and did to a more extreme, stitch weld you ride if you can

and jack child if you wanna call out my knowledge and validity, as well as sobrity, dont hide behind ted, because id school you in more than one way, and have my 7 run u doun at the track, so you can just suck it hard, you not a mod there fore you cannot ban me, this fourm has been one of the best as far as responce time, and sugestions that carry weight, but the ammount of bitching is ridculous, as well as **** talking, so if you disagree, disagree just dont be a little bitch about it.

carbonrx, pm me if i can help you in any decisions you are unshure of, if you feel to attempt what ive listed, i will answer any question in detail, good luck with your car, its great to see the potential to have another reputable 7 on the road.
Old 10-15-07, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by blwn rtr 89'
listen fartman, obvoiusly u cannot read, as for my manners they are considered higher up than most, even those with high post counts, you guys flame up on bitches like theres no tommorw.

i did give the op advice ill make shure you can see it

GO FIND YARD SHOCKS, UNTIL YOU CAN AFFORD SOME JIC MAGIC FTL-A2'S LINK SEEN HERE http://jic-magic.com/ViewProduct1.aspx?ProductID=33

IF YOU ARE WILLING TO ATTEMPT SOMETHING AWESOMEhttp://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=14548.0

USE THIS AS A GUIDE, YES THEY ARE AFFORDABLE

NOW BEING YOU SAVED YOU MONEY AND PAINFULLY KEPT THE STOCKERS, GO AND BUY SOME MOOG TIE RODS, AS FORE BUSHINGS MAZDASPEED MAKE THEM, BUT THEIR CRAPPY IN THE BIG ASPECT, I DONNOT REMEMBER THE COMPANY I GOT MINE FROM, I WILL GET BACK TO YOU ON THAT,, NOW FOR PRODUCTION SWAY BARS TANABE IS GOOD ON ACCOUNT OF THEM BEING ALL AROUND THICKER COMPAIRED TO MOST OF SIMILAR PRICE, THEN SOME LOWER SUPPORT BRACES, CUSCO MAKES SOME, THOUGH I CANNOT ASSURE YOU IF THEIR QUAILITY

THATS WHAT A SAW WELDER AND SOME DESIGN IS FOR

THESE ARE WONDERFULL THEY HELP YOU DRIVE, (EXCEPT THE GREEN ONES)
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=11791.0

AND LAST IF YOUR CAGE DOSENT PROTUDE THROUGH YOUR FIRE WALL, FAB UP A TRIANGULAR SHAPE BRACE FROM A-PILLAR AERA TO ABOUT MID FENDER(ABOUT 1.12" OF CLEARANCE .75" RECTUANGULAR STEEL IS BEST. )
FOR THAT EXTRA, NO DIP OR BODY ROLL CONVEINCE..............DONE RANTING

i know what ive listeed isnt easy, might be over kill, but thats what id do and did to a more extreme, stitch weld you ride if you can

and jack child if you wanna call out my knowledge and validity, as well as sobrity, dont hide behind ted, because id school you in more than one way, and have my 7 run u doun at the track, so you can just suck it hard, you not a mod there fore you cannot ban me, this fourm has been one of the best as far as responce time, and sugestions that carry weight, but the ammount of bitching is ridculous, as well as **** talking, so if you disagree, disagree just dont be a little bitch about it.

carbonrx, pm me if i can help you in any decisions you are unshure of, if you feel to attempt what ive listed, i will answer any question in detail, good luck with your car, its great to see the potential to have another reputable 7 on the road.

Thanks for making my points, every last one.
Old 10-15-07, 08:03 AM
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Yeah, I know. There are lots of listings, but there was a thread on this topic:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ach+production

Maybe it's not true?
Old 10-16-07, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by blwn rtr 89'
actually all that mean to me is i learned in tech school, worked in shops, and observed others who are scary talented do some of the things i talk about, insted of reading among a mix matched group of people who know and simply dont

for every 30 members on this vast fourm 1 knows what there talking about.


post count is nothing
Yeah obviously you havent been here very long and dont know how to post correctly in the first place. That was my point, i dont care if you can make a boeing airplane in your backyard in an hour if you dont know how to post propely dont do it.
Old 10-26-07, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by blwn rtr 89'
listen fartman, obvoiusly u cannot read, as for my manners they are considered higher up than most, even those with high post counts, you guys flame up on bitches like theres no tommorw.

i did give the op advice ill make shure you can see it

GO FIND YARD SHOCKS, UNTIL YOU CAN AFFORD SOME JIC MAGIC FTL-A2'S LINK SEEN HERE http://jic-magic.com/ViewProduct1.aspx?ProductID=33

IF YOU ARE WILLING TO ATTEMPT SOMETHING AWESOMEhttp://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=14548.0

USE THIS AS A GUIDE, YES THEY ARE AFFORDABLE

NOW BEING YOU SAVED YOU MONEY AND PAINFULLY KEPT THE STOCKERS, GO AND BUY SOME MOOG TIE RODS, AS FORE BUSHINGS MAZDASPEED MAKE THEM, BUT THEIR CRAPPY IN THE BIG ASPECT, I DONNOT REMEMBER THE COMPANY I GOT MINE FROM, I WILL GET BACK TO YOU ON THAT,, NOW FOR PRODUCTION SWAY BARS TANABE IS GOOD ON ACCOUNT OF THEM BEING ALL AROUND THICKER COMPAIRED TO MOST OF SIMILAR PRICE, THEN SOME LOWER SUPPORT BRACES, CUSCO MAKES SOME, THOUGH I CANNOT ASSURE YOU IF THEIR QUAILITY

THATS WHAT A SAW WELDER AND SOME DESIGN IS FOR

THESE ARE WONDERFULL THEY HELP YOU DRIVE, (EXCEPT THE GREEN ONES)
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=11791.0

AND LAST IF YOUR CAGE DOSENT PROTUDE THROUGH YOUR FIRE WALL, FAB UP A TRIANGULAR SHAPE BRACE FROM A-PILLAR AERA TO ABOUT MID FENDER(ABOUT 1.12" OF CLEARANCE .75" RECTUANGULAR STEEL IS BEST. )
FOR THAT EXTRA, NO DIP OR BODY ROLL CONVEINCE..............DONE RANTING

i know what ive listeed isnt easy, might be over kill, but thats what id do and did to a more extreme, stitch weld you ride if you can

and jack child if you wanna call out my knowledge and validity, as well as sobrity, dont hide behind ted, because id school you in more than one way, and have my 7 run u doun at the track, so you can just suck it hard, you not a mod there fore you cannot ban me, this fourm has been one of the best as far as responce time, and sugestions that carry weight, but the ammount of bitching is ridculous, as well as **** talking, so if you disagree, disagree just dont be a little bitch about it.

carbonrx, pm me if i can help you in any decisions you are unshure of, if you feel to attempt what ive listed, i will answer any question in detail, good luck with your car, its great to see the potential to have another reputable 7 on the road.
I bought Koni's and Bilstein's for my two FC's. I can send either of them to the factories to get revalved for a certain weight and spring rate. With Koni, the factory can add an independent compression adjuster so I can adjust both my compression and rebound without any crosstalk. With my Bilsteins, I can have the factory add a rebound adjuster and custom add an Penske/Ohlins remote resevoir canister to do the same thing.

Paired with a Ground Control Coilover sleeve and Springs, I have a perfectly matched coilover system with Camber and Caster adjustment. If I use the Bilsteins, I'll even have remote reservoirs. I don't think any of the Japanese coilovers can even do that, until you get into the $3K coilovers. And all that, because I started with $400 shocks.

Upgradeable shocks are the way to go in my book.
Old 10-26-07, 06:59 PM
  #74  
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OMG i cant believe someone is tell a forum member to go and get shock out of a yard sale. Reusing used shocks could be worse than what he has now.

OP, if you cannot afford a good KYB and GC setup, try out the monroe sensatracs( i know i know they suck), but if your in really bad need of them they can do the job of a daily dampner.

I full coil over system is far to stiff for the street, you will feel every bump, and crack in the road. And some of these fancy dancy system systems that this guy is talking about can actually hurt your performance if not tuned correctly to your car. Try the AGX and GC combo, it is probably the most popular setup for a reason.
Old 12-07-07, 04:16 AM
  #75  
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KYB AGX's work well for daily use. Buy them, you won't be disappointed.


Quick Reply: whats are some good cheap shocks?



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