What's the best oil for an FC?
#26
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by intro_kz
Also I was wondering what gains there are in upgrading to 3mm seals and if it's worth it for a n/a car.
#27
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by intro_kz
I had another question along these same lines. I was talking to a friend that knows a great deal about cars and considerably less but has some information about rotary engines. He told me that rotary engines were designed and first built for airplanes and engineered to run at a constant speed rather than having the constant fluctuation in RPMs that daily driving entails. Consequently, he said that I'd have to replace my Apex seals often. I need to know if he's just talking out of his ***.
and the rotary engine was designed to be a variable water pump, not an air craft engine. He is probably confusing the Rotary Piston engine with a Wankle Rotary engine. The rotary Piston engine was designed to be used in aircraft. Using a Wankle rotary in an aircraft is a very limited (and fairly new) application. Wankle Rotary aircraft engines have fuel useage issues that most aircraft owners would not tolerate.
Last edited by Icemark; 09-16-04 at 10:16 AM.
#28
I break Diff mounts
iTrader: (1)
lol don't forget the rotaries tendancy to not work lol. Would be a bit scary for it to crap out while flying
Synthetics are perfectly fine in a rotary. I remember the Royal Purple Rep at SS6 had a whole speech on the topic. Think about it.
Synthetics are manufactured out of a more pure oil base than regular dino oil. The reg stuff isn't as cleaned so it still has impurities in it which can lead to carbon if burned.
He also mentioned that it's not preferrable for it to be burned in combustion but would pretty much burn a bit cleaner/less carbon than a regular would.
Synthetics are perfectly fine in a rotary. I remember the Royal Purple Rep at SS6 had a whole speech on the topic. Think about it.
Synthetics are manufactured out of a more pure oil base than regular dino oil. The reg stuff isn't as cleaned so it still has impurities in it which can lead to carbon if burned.
He also mentioned that it's not preferrable for it to be burned in combustion but would pretty much burn a bit cleaner/less carbon than a regular would.
#31
Lives on the Forum
There's very little difference between 4x4, hi performance, high milage or whatever other oil as long as it's the same viscosity (10-30, 20-50 etc) and they are all either synthetic or not and are the same quality of oil. Basically the lower the viscosity, the easier it is to move around the engine (less resistance = more power). If you have a TII or regularly run your NA hard you should probably run higher than 10-30, otherwise for those who daily commute their NA's and don't abuse them 10-30 is fine. I run 10-30 for most of the time and switch to 20-50 for the track. When it's cold out, running 20-50 can hurt you as it'll take alot longer for it to get runny (it'll stay in a glob in the oil pan) and you can be driving around with low oil pressure and have the bearings and seals not getting enough oil (think of it as molassas, runny when hot, very thick when it's cold).
#32
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by sectachrome
ive been using castrol gtx high mileage 10w30. no problems whatsoever.
#34
controlled kaos
iTrader: (3)
royal purple for 6-7 years ... every car I've ever bought was changed over and every time i noticed a difference....... minimal but there.... although i've been told that Red Line is just as good, and plan on trying it....... always use amsoil for premix ............. they call us rotorheads picky don't they....
#35
I wish I was driving!
Originally Posted by beefhole
LOL, forgot to put back the drain plug? How do you put FIFTEEN quarts of oil in?
#36
In pursuit of balance
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If you still have any questions about the use of royal purple in your engine, check out their website. Answered a lot of my questions.
http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#re0
http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#re0
#37
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I was born a Penzoil man and will die a Penzoil man. I use 20W 50 and change every 2000 mi. I also use the OEM filter and premix as well. I have never had a problem. To each his or her own.
#39
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should I follow the manual's viscosity table when choosing my oil? for instance my next oil change is for fall to spring, so I'm thinking of using RP 10W30. is that a good pick?
#40
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by FC3Slider
what is worng with 10w-40?
#41
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i run pennzoil 10-20 i live in cali central coast, kind of cold is that cool? were can i by that premix stuff? how much should i add? i wanted to run syn mobile one in my car cuz i i have blowen alot of honda and toyota engines and evey time i see the mobile 1 come out clean, but i have not push my 7 hard , it's an s4 n/a no mods. but yeah evey one tells me syn sucks and stuff like that cuz it has plastic is that true? and premix thats the thing u add to the uhm weedwakers or what ever right? ok thanks any one near salinas?
#42
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by slidebabyslide
i run pennzoil 10-20 i live in cali central coast, kind of cold is that cool? were can i by that premix stuff? how much should i add? i wanted to run syn mobile one in my car cuz i i have blowen alot of honda and toyota engines and evey time i see the mobile 1 come out clean, but i have not push my 7 hard , it's an s4 n/a no mods. but yeah evey one tells me syn sucks and stuff like that cuz it has plastic is that true? and premix thats the thing u add to the uhm weedwakers or what ever right? ok thanks any one near salinas?
In addition, you said:
but i have not push my 7 hard
#43
the reason for the concern of using synthetic oil in a rotary engine is that it DOES NOT BURN as easily as dinosaur (mineral) oil. this means carbon may build up and unburned oil could foul the spark plugs.
#45
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by rotariesrule
the reason for the concern of using synthetic oil in a rotary engine is that it DOES NOT BURN as easily as dinosaur (mineral) oil. this means carbon may build up and unburned oil could foul the spark plugs.
In comparison most conventional oils burn between 390F and 525F (depending on additives and oil base).
Now if you are using an conventional oil that burns at say 500F (like several of the "Turbo" conventional oils) and a synthetic that burns at 450F... which one is better???
Last edited by Icemark; 09-17-04 at 11:54 AM.
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