not unless you plan on useing a 200 shot of nitrous.

 

and yes he is barking out his ***. There are many owners that have 200K miles plus on a non turbo with stock 2mm apex seals.

and the rotary engine was designed to be a variable water pump, not an air craft engine. He is probably confusing the Rotary Piston engine with a Wankle Rotary engine. The rotary Piston engine was designed to be used in aircraft. Using a Wankle rotary in an aircraft is a very limited (and fairly new) application. Wankle Rotary aircraft engines have fuel useage issues that most aircraft owners would not tolerate.

 

lol don't forget the rotaries tendancy to not work lol. Would be a bit scary for it to crap out while flying

Synthetics are perfectly fine in a rotary. I remember the Royal Purple Rep at SS6 had a whole speech on the topic. Think about it.
Synthetics are manufactured out of a more pure oil base than regular dino oil. The reg stuff isn't as cleaned so it still has impurities in it which can lead to carbon if burned.

He also mentioned that it's not preferrable for it to be burned in combustion but would pretty much burn a bit cleaner/less carbon than a regular would.

 

ive been using castrol gtx high mileage 10w30. no problems whatsoever.

 

Hmmmm, I don't know if the high mileage stuff is a good idea. I'm not sure that the conditioners in that stuff is made for a 2 stroke type motor.

 

There's very little difference between 4x4, hi performance, high milage or whatever other oil as long as it's the same viscosity (10-30, 20-50 etc) and they are all either synthetic or not and are the same quality of oil. Basically the lower the viscosity, the easier it is to move around the engine (less resistance = more power). If you have a TII or regularly run your NA hard you should probably run higher than 10-30, otherwise for those who daily commute their NA's and don't abuse them 10-30 is fine. I run 10-30 for most of the time and switch to 20-50 for the track. When it's cold out, running 20-50 can hurt you as it'll take alot longer for it to get runny (it'll stay in a glob in the oil pan) and you can be driving around with low oil pressure and have the bearings and seals not getting enough oil (think of it as molassas, runny when hot, very thick when it's cold).

 

The extra zinc in high mileage oils can cause build up problems.

 

i have been using the quickerstate 10w30 non synthetic. the PEAK PREFORMANCE kind

 

royal purple for 6-7 years ... every car I've ever bought was changed over and every time i noticed a difference....... minimal but there.... although i've been told that Red Line is just as good, and plan on trying it....... always use amsoil for premix ............. they call us rotorheads picky don't they....

 

Gimme a little more credit than that... custom-built dry-sump system with a remote de-aeration resevoir which held... 15 quarts

 

If you still have any questions about the use of royal purple in your engine, check out their website. Answered a lot of my questions.

http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#re0

 

I was born a Penzoil man and will die a Penzoil man. I use 20W 50 and change every 2000 mi. I also use the OEM filter and premix as well. I have never had a problem. To each his or her own.

 

what is worng with 10w-40?

 

should I follow the manual's viscosity table when choosing my oil? for instance my next oil change is for fall to spring, so I'm thinking of using RP 10W30. is that a good pick?

 

Typically the additive polymer packages that are needed to get a 10W oil to work like a 40W when warm, have a tendency to lead to increased engine deposits and sludging when used in high reving motors.

 

i run pennzoil 10-20 i live in cali central coast, kind of cold is that cool? were can i by that premix stuff? how much should i add? i wanted to run syn mobile one in my car cuz i i have blowen alot of honda and toyota engines and evey time i see the mobile 1 come out clean, but i have not push my 7 hard , it's an s4 n/a no mods. but yeah evey one tells me syn sucks and stuff like that cuz it has plastic is that true? and premix thats the thing u add to the uhm weedwakers or what ever right? ok thanks any one near salinas?

 

10W20 is a little light, you would be better off using a 10W30 or 15W50.

In addition, you said:
if that is the case you would want to avoid using synthetics (and probably any oil besides castrol 10W30). The worst thing possible to do to a rotary is to grandma the motor. It needs to be pushed hard daily to blow out any low temp deposits, that are common when people grandma drive a rotary.

 

the reason for the concern of using synthetic oil in a rotary engine is that it DOES NOT BURN as easily as dinosaur (mineral) oil. this means carbon may build up and unburned oil could foul the spark plugs.

 

Search button.


Redline 10W-30 or 20W-50.


I prefer running no oil at all.

 

That is way way wrong... there is not a synthetic made for automotive use that does not burn at or under 500F... considerably lower than the combustion temp of a rotary (or even a piston engine for that matter).

In comparison most conventional oils burn between 390F and 525F (depending on additives and oil base).

Now if you are using an conventional oil that burns at say 500F (like several of the "Turbo" conventional oils) and a synthetic that burns at 450F... which one is better???