As it says in my sig I have a 1991 N/A convertible. It has a rebulit engine in it with less than 35,000 miles. What are your thoughts in general on N20 and on me putting it in my car.

 

Check out http://www.fc3s.org/nos1.html .

 

I think it's pretty cool... makes you all happy when your teeth are being worked on.

Oh, you mean for your car? Not a BAD idea... but NEVER put a "dry kit" on an RX-7.


Brad

 

Common, y'all must have something to say. Flames, hatemail, good advice, throw it at me.

 

N2O is...how do I say it?....WONDERFUL If you know how to install it and what you are doing, then it is a breeze and it is the best bang for the buck that an N/A FC can get. The wet kit is the way to go. I have installed both types so I know first hand. I recommend the kit that I describe on my site under wet nitrous. That starts you out with a 50 shot. Then you can upgrade to larger jets when you feel your car is ready.

 

I hate typos! J/K for future reference it is NO2 (1 part nitrous, 2 parts oxygen, henceforth Oxide)


My stock motor with a carb conversion did nothing but gulp down anywhere from a 75-150 shot with no problems, I installed the carb kit and the NOS at around 120K miles, the carb'd N/A just hit 162k. I blew the oil seal in it at around 161,500 miles. Not bad considering that I went through a 10lb bottle once a week, every week, until it started smoking blue.

By far, turbo or N/A, I would have to say that Nitrous should be on the top of everyones mod list(be sure to do the exhaust first though!)

BTW, Nitrous Express has the most advanced NO2 system on the market right now, do your research before you buy a kit, most importantly one that fits your needs

 

Where can I find this Nitrous Express so I can look at their advancements? Thanks.

 

www.nitrousexpress.com

 

Bzzzzt. Sorry, it's N2O. Two parts Nitrogen (66%) and one part Oxygen (33%), which is a lot more oxygen than normal air (~20%, IIRC).

It's definitely a good mod. Not only should you "do the exhaust" in the sense of bolting on better flowing parts, but ideally you will have your engine built specifically for nitrous to get maximum life. Where normal engines (even Peripheral Port engines) need exhaust ports that are 70-80% as big as the intake ports, nitrous users should have them at 100-110%. There are also a bunch of internal mods (particularly bearing clearances, and oil passages) that should be done for big doses of the juice. 75hp shots are fine on a stock motor in good condition, but anything over that is risky until the engine has been beefed up. But, once this is done 100-150hp (or more) shots can be done relatively safely, provided you have enough fuel to support it.

Well, they are innovative, but not neccessarily proven. Boingers can take a lot more abuse, so I'm skeptical of most new products when they are first adapted to rotary use. Besides, there's nothing wrong with competitor's systems as far as I'm aware. Open valve, arm the system, then trigger the microswitch 'go' button. Simple and reliable.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Blake
[B]

Bzzzzt. Sorry, it's N2O. Two parts Nitrogen (66%) and one part Oxygen (33%), which is a lot more oxygen than normal air (~20%, IIRC).

nope, go back and do your homework honkey, the "ide" suffix isnt on there for nothing, pic up your chemistry book

 

You have a learnin' disability, dude? Why don't you go do some research before proclaiming yourself some sort of "ide" expert.

First, follow the link in my .sig and see if I'm just some punk kid, like yourself, or an actual knowledgeable adult person. Next, go pick up any book on Nitrous, like "Nitrous Oxide Injection" (ISBN 1-884089-22-4) and at least learn a few things about the subject at hand. N2O is one of a group of "oxides of nitrogen". <looks in book> Gee, it says so right here on pages 4 and 5.

 

Well, just remember, if it was 2 parts oxygen, it would be call Nitrous Dioxide. And, its not.......so.......I think I am correct in what I am saying, its been a while since Chemistry class.

 

its N2O... 2 little N atoms, and 1 big O atom. its volatile,and gives up the O readily. IIRC, O2 content in air is like 16%. the N content in air is like 21%, and like 4% argon and other **** like that. "Oxide" means that theres and O atom attached. if it was Nitrous DIoxide, it would have 2 Oxygen atoms. like CARBON DIOXIDE. CO2....get the idea?sorry to burst ur bubble.

Rotaries are especially succeptiable to lean conditions, and detonation. a WET shot is almost mandatory. better safe than sorry.

the guys at my rice shop say stay away from ZEX for some reason. he called it "broken piston in a bottle" i saw a piston they pulled out of a B18C civic...the rod was bent like an L, and a chunk of the piston was gone....like 1/4 of it.

NOS is probably the way to go. just cuz of the history, and funds that they are able to throw at R&D that it would take to adapt NOS to a rotary.

chris

 

Ya I have to agree with Blake & FC3AZ...where would the 2 part be in "ide"? It would be dioxide, like carbon dioxide, CO2. Nitron? Dioxide would be NO2. I think. Not sure on the Nitron part, lol. Chemistry was way too long ago.

 

It's N2O.

 

Oh yeah, my thoughts on N2O...

...it would be nice to have in case I ever have a late night encounter with a faster car on the interstate. I don't drag race, so the benefits of it would pretty much be lost on me.

I think on a curvy road, where I like to play, it would be nothing more than added weight.

 

Well, I've seen an awful lot of nitrous run in cars...cars that liked it, and cars that puked connecting rods through cylinder walls because of it...
Biggest thing? Make sure your injectors can handle it...after that, make sure your motor is strong enough for it, and has good enough air flow...most everybody who didn't scatter their crankshaft on the ground couldn't believe they didn't do it sooner.

BTW: yes, I know what a friggin rotary is, and wish I had one (kind of...I kinda like my car though...), and I know they don't have con. rods or cranks, but I can only tell you what I know, and I've never actually seen a rotary w/N2O (in person, anyway)

 

since youre down w/ american muscle. you think a Rebuilt Ram Air 4 pontiac 400 could handle a 125 wet shot plate system??? most of the guys i talk to at CamaroZ28.com say forget it. dont need it. cant handle RPMs (which i know, its a freakin big block)the goodie list on the engine goes a little something like this:

Speedpro hyperutectics, 8.5:1
" plasma moly rings
stock rods/crank
studded main
SCE copper head gaskets
Edlebrock springs, etc.
SS valves, 7* retainers
Ported,polished, gasket matched heads
RA 4 cam regrind(edlebrock performer RPM)
Performer RPM intake
Holley DP 850 (think it should be Vacc or mech secondary?)
Accel ignition
windage tray
7 qt. pan
700R4

is a BB pontiac even supposed to have N20? that set up is good for 450hp+480lb.ft. before N20.

thanks
chris