shadowghost21

I have an 88' GXL NA. NOT a daily driver. EDIT: Also thought it was important to mention, I am the DIY kinda guy. This is our project car And I would prefer to do everything myself, even if that means cracking a egg yolks.

I am having so much trouble getting my priorities straight on what to replace/upgrade/add to the engine and it's driving me nuts. Looking for some suggestions on what I should be working on and in some kind of order. Electrical system and coolant flush are happening tonight. Fixed breaks last weekend. The car seems to be in good shape but I want to do a few more on ramp pulls before I can tell if there is anything wrong with the suspension.

My fiance also said that when the back passenger tire's camber was a little weird since it stuck out. I attributed to an optical illusion while she was following me since one of the tail pipes is a bit lower than the other. But this may be an actual problem. It doesn't look funny when it's parked. Maybe the AAS is broke, I'll need to talk a look at that too. Any suggestions on repairing the AAS computer if it isn't working correctly? I am very skilled with a soldering iron

We are also thinking of doing a street port and rebuilding the engine. The 3rd gear syncro is bad and I don't know where to get a new one. I would like to replace it if I can find a place that sells new syncros.

Car has a new radiator, new belts, and hoses, all replaced by previous owner.

So to summarize, these are the things that *may* need fixes or what not:

Rear suspension, tire camber/caster/toe
Street port
Engine rebuild (what rebuild package should we be looking at?)
Fuel injectors?
Spark plugs?
AAS computer/switches
After market turbo (fabrication etc, I still need to do more research on this)
3rd gear syncro


I'd really appreciate the help organizing my jumbled excited thoughts. If you have any suggestions I would also love to hear those Thanks guys!

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

best overall upgrade for the car would be all the suspension bushings. they are probably torn and degraded by this time. your car will feel like a million bucks with new suspension. after its all installed, then take it to an alignment shop and at that time, you can have your rear camber checked.

Level Zero Motorsports

iTrader: (8)

Personally I always like to start with suspension repairs/upgrades.

Things I would check/replace

Motor Mounts
Transmission Center Mount
DTSS
Control Arm Bushings
Front Diff Mount
Struts
Brakes

After that there are a few small things like the shifter boot that I would check over. Once the car is in good shape as far as handling goes, I then focus on changes that gear the car more towards my final build goals.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Thinking of doing a street port and rebuilding the engine.? Does it have poor compression? If not, I'd just run it.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

AAS does not control camber. Broken AAS will not cause camber problems, only the damping rates of the shocks...

AAS shocks have an adjustment **** controlled by a motor. They have three settings: normal, stiff, and extra stiff. In Normal mode, the shocks are all normal, but the fronts go to stiff when you hit the brakes hard and the rears go stiff when you accelerate hard... When in Sport mode the shocks are in stiff and go to extra stiff in the same conditions.

No aftermarket shocks are available that are compatible with the AAS motors. Most people delete the AAS when the shocks go.

If you're dead set on keeping the AAS, you can figure out how to adapt the motors to Tokico Illumnas or KYB AGX shocks... Or you can rebuild the factory units.



To replace the synchro, you'll need to dismantle the ENTIRE transmission. You'd do well to replace all the other synchros, all bearings, and other items while you're in there. IE a complete overhaul.
I have a few links in the miata transmission swap thread. I believe it's in the Archive. If it isn't I'm going to search for it and put it in there. They describe what's needed to partially pull apart the transmission.

shadowghost21

I figured as much with the transmission and honestly, I wouldn't have it any other way Should be fun, I just need to find replacement parts. As far as the shocks go thanks for the info about the camber. I'll need to look into that myself, it might be that rear wheel steer thing they built into the car.

shadowghost21

Not sure if the compression is bad. Engine sounds nice. The porting was a down the road sorta thing. We have also been looking at the TII engine+trany swap. Need to find one first Glad I am getting all this input. I'm going to be headed out in a few hours to replace the coolant which is gross!

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I can't speak for the Tokico Illumina's, but the KYB AGX shocks would be a special challenge to rig to adjust remotely. You have to push the valve switch down at least 1/8" before you can turn it. Maybe they'd turn if you forced it, but I know there's supposed to be a catch so it doesn't accidentally adjust itself on the road, so if you applied force to it you would risk breaking them. It's something you'd have to consider if you were thinking about engineering such a system.

shadowghost21

If I were to get any exhuast stuff or air intake, would it be a waste of money if we were to do a TII engine/trany swap down the road?

Pele

iTrader: (28)

You'll need a press, gear and bearing puller, and various other specialized tools to DIY rebuild on the transmission. This might be cost prohibitive. At the very least, I'd outsource pressing the gears and bearings off the shafts.

Rear camber is adjustable on these cars with a link in the center part of the suspension. It adjusts both sides at the same time. If the adjustment doesn't work, look for chassis (wreck) damage.

I'm more partial to a powerful N/A engine.

I'll leave boost to my truck that runs over 20 PSI stock and that will probably only need a head gasket and studs if I push over 30 PSI... Versus rotor housings that will get scraped up by failed rotor housings.

Like I said... It'll take some fabrication. I wish anyone luck if they want to try it.

I personally will get out and adjust my Ohlins coilovers... If I could figure out what settings work for what. I think I bought more suspension that I can handle.

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Enjoy your na and get used to your car since there is nothing wrong with it. You can buy a t2 engine and tear it down to be rebuilt and customized to your liking. By the time that engine is all set, enough time should pass (unless your rich) where you will be ready to part with your na, or your compression has parted with you. I can't see tossing a good engine right off the rippa.

shadowghost21

lol I agree! That was our plan. Just not sure what aftermarket parts we can bring from the NA motor to the TII motor when we get around to the swap. I like the suspension idea for now. I'll get some bearing ordered, and then figure out how the heck I am gonna get them out and the new ones in. I hear a hydraulic press is the way to go and harbor freight has them for a reasonable price, I'll need to have a look. We only have a one car garage where we live but it's better than working in the parking lot!

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

when you do shocks- change the mounts.
I have a pair of very low mileage ( less then 1k) front mounts if you are interested.

even if you dont buy mine change the mounts when changing the shocks

Spirit-RE

iTrader: (25)

If you like power, don't waste time with the n/a.


What do you want out of your car first?

Want it to look good? wheels/paint/coilovers

Want it to drive well? as stated, suspension/bushings/good tires.

Want power? turbo swap.

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

None of the stock exhaust should be retained..

Racing Beat's normal Turbo catback exhaust can be used on an NA, so if you're undecided you could use it. Their REV TII exhaust could be adapted to NA cats or a presilencer [I don't think it normally bolts up though].
I think all the other exhausts I know of [Apexi N1, Borla] are generic Turbo/NA

shadowghost21

Thanks for the insight. I had a feeling there was something out there that could be used for both. Don't want to sink my money into a system only to have it not work when we do a swap.

And it's not *if* we do a swap, it's *when* When my fiance came home last night she told me she had been looking around for TII engines and transmissions. Found some pretty nice j-spec models for a good price, only problem, I want one in town. Shipping is a nightmare at that weight lol. And we might be able to get a decent amount of money back for the running in good shape NA engine we have.

We defiantly want the car to look nice, I'll be doing a paint job when we get the tII hood and spoiler so I make sure that everything is the same shade of white

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, good luck with that.

If the first thing you decided with your NA was to ditch the engine, how big do you think the market is for your NA package?
Especially here in CO...we gots no air to work with.

R-X-R

iTrader: (9)

is it better to stick with new oem bushings or aftermarket?

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Before I answer that, answer me this: which is better, red or blue?

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I was saying it for the OP's and any other n00b's benefit.

shadowghost21

Well it was an idea. I know what you are talking about lol. It's not like we are all hip hop about getting a turbo right away. If anything it never hurts to have a spare engine laying around. We do still need a turbo 2 hood, I personally think it looks cool and we need it for the aesthetics of the vehicle.

With the turbo hood and some racing stripes I think it adds about 20hp.

Still waiting to see if anyone knows where to get new transmission parts...

lunardeathgod

just curious, how hard is it to replace all the bushings for the suspension?

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

pain in the ***

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

+1

shadowghost21

lol That's what I hear. I found a nice write up on no pistons on how to get them out with a hydraulic press. So I might be making a trip to harbor freight, or trying the bolt washer method which I hear is a double pain.

There was something else that I read that involved going to a place that has a press and asking them to pop them out for you and put the new ones in. Said it cost them a few bucks but they didn't need to buy a press.