Here we go, I'll throw my irons in the fire If there's one good thing about pinching a coolant seal on reassembly, it gives you time to clean and paint while you wait for the new ones to come in the mail.

Before anyone asks, I thought about making the Mazda writing on the rotor housings silver, but paint thinner didn't remove that paint (!!!) I thought about scraping with an X-acto knife, but if it took a chip of paint off, I'd So I'm thinking I'll leave it as is.

Irons are Duplicolor Engine "Cast Coat Gray", rotor housings are Metalcast Blue. The Metalcast didn't come out as well as I would have liked, (I was looking for an almost blue chrome look) but I think I can learn to love it

Oh, and yes, that's my kitchen counter (Love you, honey!!! *wince*)

 

I'm not quite finished yet....but there's some 1200 degree "aluminum" paint at wal mart.....giving it a shot. So far this is what it looks like...

 

Looking good! I'm liking the almost chrome-like shine of it! Mine came out pretty dark, so I'll bet that would look awesome as a basecoat for the Metalcast.

 

Has anyone ever anodized the aluminum housings? I wonder how that would turn out.

 

It's crazy shiny...enough bling to where I'm painting other things under the hood to match a little better. I guess i'll quit sooner or later.

UIM


LIM

 

Yeah, I had that problem. I've got the engine assembled on my creeper and I'm thinking "man, I need a better car to put that in"

On anodizing, do you think it would be possible to do it without bothering the chrome surface on the inner track? I'm not sure what the process is, but I thought it involved acid etching or something.

 

check out this site. Then go to Coatings.
this "paint" is for the internals. Reduces heat TONS...

http://turblown.net/

 

I'll bet that costs more than my car did

 

Interesting. Contact us for pricing....nah, I'll pass.

 

I can't breathe, that blue anodized motor is BADDD looking

 

its not that pricee if your getting a straight rebuild. But if he has to take the engine apart just to coat it... or sending the parts in isnt that expensive either.

The "contact us" is more because of the case by case nature of the business.

 

here is mine, just duplicolor engine enamel. about 15k on the motor and its still holding the same colour. for the housings, Ford Blue, the closest looking I could get to Mazda Blue. I didnt want any issues with fitment or gasket sealing so I masked pretty much every mating surface

 

All these engine stands. Makes me sad for my 5 gallon bucket with a towel on it

 

Use VHT header paint. Comes in blue, red, yellow, etc. It gives you an extra 500 degrees of protection over that shitty duplicolor stuff.

 

brake caliper spraypaint works /really/ well and looks fantastic.

I did my motor in blue, can't complain.

 

wtf is the blue car in your sig, I can't figure it out.

looks almost like a pulsar, but it's a convertable?

metro/swift with some kind of frontend conversion maybe?

 

i just used some old housings and set them up against the one i was painting, but i've used newpaper before too, it really doesnt matter. any overspray i wipe down with mineral spirits or use a razor blade to scrape off.

 

Its a Mercury Capri. Mazda built 1.6l FWD, probably turbo. Fun little cars and reliable.

 

Its All About The Og Stock Colors :ddddddddd

 

ding ding ding, for the win! Unfortunately not a turbo. Also unfortunately, it's the only motherf***ing car that uses that g**d**n engine, now it has a stumbling problem and after a year and half off and on of working on it and throwing parts at it, it still doesn't work and neither myself nor the three mechanics I've taken it to have any clue what's wrong with it, since there were less than 20,000 total of these in the US, noone seems to have any experience on them that doesn't involve replacing things with brand new one at a time, and since there weren't that many made, and most of them are in Australia, parts are freaking nuts. :P

 

I used a cutout cardboard template on the top, and then just laid it on a flat surface on the bottom. Overspray isn't too hard to get off either.