what type of paint for irons and front cover?
08-28-05, 04:16 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
what type of paint for irons and front cover?
hey guys, What type of paint have you guys used to paint your engine stuff? How has it held up? I want to paint as much of the motor as possible, but i plan on just leaving the housings the same. If anyones got pics of nice painted motors, could you post some.
08-28-05, 04:55 PM
#7
Passing life by
The blue one is not anodized you can see the clear coat. If you want to paint your motor parts here.
Go to an auto paint supply shop. Go through the books and pick out the paint you want. Note depending on the paint you get it will take up to 30days to fully dry and harden. This means 30 days before you can color sand and buff out the orange peel and so on. Dupi Color has some much faster drying paints due to the way they are sprayed on. Another note there is no such thing as high temp paint like this. So just get the one you want.
I just got done spraying my parts the motor block will be done on rebuild. I spent 340$ on paint for 2 quarts and the reducers activators primer and clear and pearl. The paint was from house of kolor. We went with a pink pastel pizzazz with diamond white pearl.
I used three stage paint. After cleaning and sanding the crap out of everything I sprayed with 3 coats of primer then 3 coats of paint followed by 2 coats of pearl and 3 coats of clear. It was a 3 hr spray process the paint goes on top of each other semi wet then cleared. This is why it takes 30 days to fully setup and hardens.
Note this is for my girls car.
Go to an auto paint supply shop. Go through the books and pick out the paint you want. Note depending on the paint you get it will take up to 30days to fully dry and harden. This means 30 days before you can color sand and buff out the orange peel and so on. Dupi Color has some much faster drying paints due to the way they are sprayed on. Another note there is no such thing as high temp paint like this. So just get the one you want.
I just got done spraying my parts the motor block will be done on rebuild. I spent 340$ on paint for 2 quarts and the reducers activators primer and clear and pearl. The paint was from house of kolor. We went with a pink pastel pizzazz with diamond white pearl.
I used three stage paint. After cleaning and sanding the crap out of everything I sprayed with 3 coats of primer then 3 coats of paint followed by 2 coats of pearl and 3 coats of clear. It was a 3 hr spray process the paint goes on top of each other semi wet then cleared. This is why it takes 30 days to fully setup and hardens.
Note this is for my girls car.
Last edited by iceblue; 08-28-05 at 04:57 PM.
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08-28-05, 05:35 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok, thats too much money to make those parts look like that. I'm speaking more about the irons and the front cover. Besides, you should see what a can of duplicolor metalcast does for like 6 bucks
08-28-05, 07:24 PM
#10
Passing life by
The paint alone was 45$ a quart. The rest is everything ells you need to paint. The color scheme of this motor is the same as the blue one above but with pink. There is still allot to be done, will be done on rebuild.
The ALT was not done b/c need to upgrade it to a FD alt. The alt will be polished with the middle pink :-p and blue anodized rotor pulley. The irons will be sprayed pink the housings will be polished. The UIM is polished the IC elbow is polished and IC pipes. The TB is painted the LIM will be done on rebuild and upgraded turbo will be polished. The injectors are blue and IC hose couplers are blue the wire loom is blue. The cover plate will be polished on rebuild. All the hard lines will be electro plated along with any metals that were not painted. The coils were polished. That should point out the main and you can pick it apart from the pics.
If anyone goes to NOPI you will see the car this year
on the 17th and 18th.
The ALT was not done b/c need to upgrade it to a FD alt. The alt will be polished with the middle pink :-p and blue anodized rotor pulley. The irons will be sprayed pink the housings will be polished. The UIM is polished the IC elbow is polished and IC pipes. The TB is painted the LIM will be done on rebuild and upgraded turbo will be polished. The injectors are blue and IC hose couplers are blue the wire loom is blue. The cover plate will be polished on rebuild. All the hard lines will be electro plated along with any metals that were not painted. The coils were polished. That should point out the main and you can pick it apart from the pics.
If anyone goes to NOPI you will see the car this year
on the 17th and 18th.
08-28-05, 07:28 PM
#11
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lol, for a minute there I was positive that you were using the TII manifolds for an NA engine. But what you have going on there is the AFM and its mounted after the intercooler and turbo! Having it mounted after the turbo, do you have any boost issues or anything? I know for a fact that the AFM was not designed to handle boost, but only vacuum, so im just curious as to how it holds up?
thx
thx
08-28-05, 07:59 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by WonkoTheSane
Mine is a very boring "Engine Paint" from Advance, for about 4 bucks a can. total cost: 8 bucks.
If you want it to last, seriously go with powdercoating for engine parts, its like bulletproof and looks nicer.
08-28-05, 08:54 PM
#14
Passing life by
Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
lol, for a minute there I was positive that you were using the TII manifolds for an NA engine. But what you have going on there is the AFM and its mounted after the intercooler and turbo! Having it mounted after the turbo, do you have any boost issues or anything? I know for a fact that the AFM was not designed to handle boost, but only vacuum, so im just curious as to how it holds up?
thx
thx
In theory the air is thinner in its position, but the amount of air being pulled in from VAC is still the same amount of air passing through it. Only time and dynoing will tell us. I positioned it into its correct setup for many thought out reasons.
1. Make room for TID
2. Close to TB far from compressor after IC. This was to serve that the AFM would receive as minimal pressure waves from TB closing and compressor fluctuation. The amount of air they may get trapped or bounced in-between the AFM and TB is minimal and should not effect as far as I can tell. After the IC to help reduce the amount of compressor spiking buy allowing the IC to absorb it. The BOV is mounted close to the compressor to quickly vent out its pressure waves wile affecting the AFM door as minimal as possible. It is also slightly angled to allow the door tension to be titer by form of gravity and flow characteristics. This titer theory is very minimal but is there.
From reading when other tuners have done this on other cars they were fine or took minimal spring tension alters to get the tuning perfect. But none of the cars were ever severely affected. At the worst end of the stick it may run just a little rich. For the AVG user a simple SAFC will take care of this. This car is going standalone so neither will be needed for much longer. I figure at the worst it gives a nice learning experience and makes room for a nicer TID.
08-28-05, 09:00 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
Thats defenitly my staple paint for car parts, I use it ALL the time. However, you get what you pay for. Your engine looks real nice until after about a month of running, it gets dull and will even run when particular fluids are spilled on it, it sucks.
If you want it to last, seriously go with powdercoating for engine parts, its like bulletproof and looks nicer.
If you want it to last, seriously go with powdercoating for engine parts, its like bulletproof and looks nicer.
If i were doing something to show, i'd do powdercoating, but I was looking for something that didn't detract from my already limited budget, while being quick and easy. Despite the paint job, I'm much more of a go than show kinda guy the paint was largely for protection, rather than looks.
08-28-05, 11:06 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Therx7ist
hey guys, What type of paint have you guys used to paint your engine stuff? How has it held up? I want to paint as much of the motor as possible, but i plan on just leaving the housings the same. If anyones got pics of nice painted motors, could you post some.
*note* I glass-beaded everything before painting It.
08-15-06, 03:06 PM
#22
any type of clear coat will not withstand the underhood temps on the engine, it will yellow and flake off very quickly.
i use the VHT high temp gloss and aluminum paint, the blue one in the second pic appears to be the dupont metalcast blue color, i have some of the red dupont metalcast and it looks nice, Aaron Cake also used a bit of the red in his project.
the engines i built over a year ago still look decent with the standard VHT paints so i dunno why those said it dulls because it doesn't unless you overheat your motor or have oil leaks and well.. my motors do not leak oil.
i use the VHT high temp gloss and aluminum paint, the blue one in the second pic appears to be the dupont metalcast blue color, i have some of the red dupont metalcast and it looks nice, Aaron Cake also used a bit of the red in his project.
the engines i built over a year ago still look decent with the standard VHT paints so i dunno why those said it dulls because it doesn't unless you overheat your motor or have oil leaks and well.. my motors do not leak oil.
08-15-06, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
any type of clear coat will not withstand the underhood temps on the engine, it will yellow and flake off very quickly.
What about the 500F clear engine enamel? Plasti-Kote or something simmilar?
08-15-06, 04:30 PM
#25
Taste great, more filling
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I've used Duplicolor's High Temp engine clear for valve covers, brake calipers, and such without any problems. Of course, the only car I drive daily is the Neon, so 'yellowing' is both relative and desired 