13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

im in the process of gathering info for my first rebuild/port job on a S4 13b im trying to decide what porting to go with for this motor, ill be putting all my current externals on this new motor when the current one blows..i just made 450whp on stock ports on the current engine with T04Z. I was told by my tuner/rotary builder that i should do a race port on the secondaries and a street port on the primaries, he suggested the pineapple racing templates..he then said not to port the exhaust ports because the factory ports are made in the specific narrow oval pattern to help the velocity of exhaust gases flowing out of the ports, he stated that porting huge exhaust ports or making the port more rounded slows the velocity down which makes the turbo very laggy, is this true? He did however say that i should take a slight bit off the edges of the port, the black area you see from the inside, which isnt much. And also what kind of intake ports would you pros recommend? id like to hear multiple opinions with detailed explanations. The car is a street driven car but not a daily driver and i drag race the car often, id like to keep a good mid range power band....what exactly is the difference between a half bridge and full bridge? do both require the rotor housing to be notched/beveled at the bridge area? i love the sound of the bridge port but i don't want to lose all my low and mid end power.. from my understanding that's what happens, the bridge is only good for top end, but im not sure what RPM range that would be?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I've got a large street port (not sure what template, friend ported the irons for me) and i ported the exhaust ports with a Pineapple Racing stage 3 template, which is larger than the stock exhaust sleeve (goes further down). I am running a T04R which is the same as a T04Z just not ball bearing.

Do you **** dollar bills? I'm not saying that to be ***, but you are already making a lot of power now. You'll pick up some power up top with porting, but I don't think it's worth the time and money to tear down a perfectly good motor when you are already at that level. Why not spend the time and money on other aspects of drag, like tires and suspension? Or take the car to a real race track (with turns) using the money you would spend. Or maybe you should fix up the interior a bit because these cars are so old. You know that making more power will increase the chance of breaking **** and not help your ET's all that much at this point? You could make the car faster in the straight line by increasing your skill (through practice) or buying supporting mods like a two-step.

the stock ports aren't even matched to the sleeve. They are pretty small, and are designed for a 175ish rwhp engine that meets cold start emissions standards. In most cases the spool of the engine is going to be affected more by the exhaust manifold, turbine housing and wheel, and intercooler piping length than by the exhaust ports as long as you don't go overboard with them. When you enlarge the ports you are supposed to bevel the bottom edge (like the stock port is). For what it's worth, when I enlarged my exhaust ports from maybe a Pineapple stage 1 size to the stage 3 template, it didn't hurt my spool. At the same time I had bought a more efficient turbo manifold and turbine housing, while tightening up clearances in the motor to improve compression. Spool is affected by a lot of different things.

You can't bridgeport a car without losing fuel efficiency and making noise more difficult to control in normal driving. Are you willing to make those sacrifices? Your car is already pretty powerful. Are there some other aspects of the car you could focus on that would make you more happy with it in the end?

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

im not planning on tearing apart the motor thats in the car at this time, i have another turbo motor that i have been piecing together for a long time, going on 3 years now, i have new irons and rotor housings and i plan on building this motor for a high horsepower beast with all the strengthening mods to last a while with high HP. because lets face it, the bone stock motor isnt going to last forever with almost 500whp..also im very interested in learning to build rotary engines, im going to do the entire build by myself..and after i finish that motor i want to build more just for the hell of it, to learn how to do it blindfolded lol i have 3 other motors in my garage that ill build and either put them into one of my other rx7s or sell them..

as for putting the money into other things on the car?? there isnt much more to do to the thing, i just finished a complete restoration on it, new paintjob, all new weather striping on the entire car, New brembo big brakes, new rims, whole new interior with 80% new OEM parts, every bushing on the car replaced with poly, new shocks springs,sway bars, exhaust...ect the car has been almost completely re done, not to much left.. so im ready to start the motor building journey and i need to figure out what port to chose.

darinn

just go with a large streetport and call it a day...thats my honest opinion

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

thats what i was probably going to go with, who sells a good large street port template? i really like the pineapple templates because they are already cut out and have the nice dowel pin locator's, the racing beat have those too but the port itself on the RB templates isnt cut out..id rather not have to cut out my port template, if i have to do that i may as well make my own. Who else offers a nice template? i know of pineapple, racing beat and mazdatrix, are there anymore? i was also planning on getting the mazdatrix porting dvd to get some pointers. And obviously ive been doing tons of other research on the subject.

darinn

have you ever build a rotary engine before? dont take this the wrong way at all just trying to help you save alot of money in the long run...

i hate mazdadix but the template might be better for you to learn how to use a die grinder and other rotary tools to shape the port better, pineapple racing a call and see if they sell their template without the cut in it..im sure they can hook it up

which ports are you going to be opening up??, have you thought about other aspects of the build? like fuel rail setup, fuel pressure? fuel pumps and lines, surge tank, etc....if i were you id prolly do that before i do the build so its in place ready to go for ya...fuel is veeery important...also are you going to go standalone? if so have you thought about which company to go with???

iceblue

The template will only help you cut the timing if you do not know how to tune the motor for your own timing setups. The timing will destroy a motor or make it great, however thats only 10% of porting. When you look into port volume and intake velocity that is all done inside the port minding shape and size. When available utilizing a flow bench is great. Bottom line is things work in a whole one dosnt work right without hte other done correctly to match.

It takes practice trial and error and lots of revamping. With that said do your best keep trying, if you feel the level of skill required to perform this action optimally is out of your current reach then higher a professional you feel comfortable with.

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

i dont mean to be rude and i appreciate the response but i do know alot about these cars/engines... just nothing about porting, read my first post..i just put together a car that makes almost 500whp..ive been running stand alones for years, currently its running a microtech LT10 and the fuel system is good to go, i may need a boost a pump when i plan to make 600-700hp but i got the full parallel fuel system with KG rails aeromotive reg and 1600cc sec and 850prim.. here is a pic of my current setup, turblown built the manifold and downpipe and other then that i put the whole car together..im just not familiar at all with porting as ive never owned a ported engine. Just trying to see some of the ups and downs to different types of porting, and im very good with a die grinder because im a metal fabricator/body man by trade. I use die grinders everyday. I do have some junk irons i can practice on if i feel the need but i doubt it will be necessary.[IMG][/IMG]

rx7fitz

iTrader: (1)

i have same radiator i feel awesome!

darinn

no doubt! but the thing is dude most people that ask these types of questions dont know a rotor from a piston ....just lookin out for your best intrest thats all go streetport, buy the template from pineapple racing and get er done!

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

lol yeah i know exactly what you mean..after i read my first post i even thought i sounded like the normal newb that dosent know **** lol and i knew it was only a matter of time untill someone said somethin like you did lol..i still cant find a place that has a large streetport template..wtf

iceblue

Its not about the size of the template. The timing is only and simply based on the RPM and port runner length for closing time and the turbo tune for opening time. After this process the rest of the work is all in the runner. The stop closing timing id already tuned for 7,200RPM seeing as you have the stock UIM LIM without surpassing 7,200rpm you only need to study the port opening and port runner shapes. To much opening will kill your turbo and to little will not utalize it. Perhaps discussing with us your turbo setup could get us to a more desirable port opening timing to give you.

darinn

just call rob at pineapple, explain your build to him and $70 gets you a custom template if you had a 13b-re you could split the cost of my template with me that im ordering

darinn

yep that is true...hence why i said giving pineapple express a call, explaining your complete build and they will get you a custom template made up, then you get to shape the rest of the port from there

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

so i talked to rob and he recommended the medium streetport which is comparable to most other large streetports. and he also recomended the large EP4A exhaust port. which in my opinion is huge. it ports way down low and some off the top as well, here is a picture of it..click link.http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ROD&ProdID=139

drifter403

iTrader: (2)

large street port and call it a day...

importtuner137

If it was me, I'd say not to worry about the porting... Just throw in the lightened 8 rotors you can buy from mazdadix get the engine balanced by atkins rotary and BAM!! You've got a 10:1 compression ratio. Throw on a methane injection system to cool the set up down and you'll be making your 500+ hp easy.

Sorry, couldn't help but throw my dream set up in there. You had all of the supporting mods for it but the methane.

Well, that's enough of my rant.

I'm with Drifter403 Go with the biggest street port and call it a day. It's the best balance you can get between power and reliability that's what I've got on my set up... But, your project is much farther along than mine. But, whatever... Best of luck to you sir! And, I want to see the new dyno numbers as soon as that thing goes in. I'm excited.

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

the current stock port motor will already make 500whp. we only went up to 18psi on the dyno and made 450whp.. if i cranked it up to like 22psi id hit 500.. the goal for this new motor is bullet proof well over 500whp.. im going large streetport, but im still unsure about the exhaust port.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Terrible advice.

drifter403

iTrader: (2)

dont go with a massive exhaust port just make the oval a little bigger/smoother and the exterior port a little larger and smoother as well and youll make about 500 on 18psi... bump to 22psi and youll be mashing well around 550-565ish

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

im going with the pineapple racing medium streetport which they claim is equal to most other large streetports, then im going with there large EP4A exhaust port template, i haven't decided yet on weather im going to port the upper section of the template...i may just do the lower, this template is for a pretty large port.
While we are on the subject does anyone have a recommendation for a really good electric die grinder? I have an air compressor but the air die grinder i have requires huge amounts of air and my compressor cant keep up with it so my only option is to do it with electric..for some reason though my compressor has no trouble running the 90* die grinder i have, but id really like to have a straight one as well. So i was looking at the makita GD0800C. Sounds really nice and powerful, only thing about these electric ones though is they are bulky but i can deal with that.

13bturbofc

iTrader: (4)

so i got the pineapple templates the other day and i must say these this are beautiful! laser cut and thick stainless steel. the jig for the exhaust port is awesome! these things are the nicest ones out there and i guarantee these will last me a lifetime.. i also ordered the makita electric die grinder which is 6.0 amps and its very powerful with adjustable speed control. I also got all the carbide bits, long and short and the abrasive rolls/stones and flappers, i followed the guide on racing beats web site, its nice to have it tells you everything you need for doing a certain port. i also bought a high quality germen made pencil die grinder to do the finishing work on the ports, its an air powered type. and it spins 90,000 rpm. its nice and small enough for doing the exhaust ports from the front (combustion chamber side) its going to be really nice for beveling the edges.

jake1191

iTrader: (1)

i think he means methanol not methane

Insomniac21772

let me know when your porting!! if i can make it back I wanna see the progress!!