We need a tool discussion section!
09-06-12, 12:08 AM
#2
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what about this section?https://www.rx7club.com/new-old-prod...dor-parts-300/ it is close to a "tool discussion" section.
09-06-12, 10:47 AM
#3
there's not too much to discuss about tools for the RX7, even the most basic tools can rebuild one of these cars from scratch.
more than half of my $30,000 in tools sit dormant in my box now.
about the only thing that not every DIY mechanic has is an air compressor and air tools but for the most part they aren't even necessary with a little ingenuity, they just make life easier. one time i had to rebuild an engine on a customer's porch when someone accidentally dropped a bolt in the intake, he had borrowed an air compressor and i brought my impact gun just to make it easy to remove the front and rear main bolt/nut. the rest can be done with a rock and a hammer..
more than half of my $30,000 in tools sit dormant in my box now.
about the only thing that not every DIY mechanic has is an air compressor and air tools but for the most part they aren't even necessary with a little ingenuity, they just make life easier. one time i had to rebuild an engine on a customer's porch when someone accidentally dropped a bolt in the intake, he had borrowed an air compressor and i brought my impact gun just to make it easy to remove the front and rear main bolt/nut. the rest can be done with a rock and a hammer..
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-06-12 at 10:50 AM.
09-06-12, 03:51 PM
#4
I was kind of interested in what tools people actually carry in their 7's. Weather it's a daily commute or a road trip there are certain things I don't like to travel without.
spark plug wrench and your favorite socket driver
at least 2 extra leading spark plugs
10,12,13,14,17,19,21mm sockets
a few extensions
12,12,14mm open ends of your favorite type
i have the 4 way screwdriver that also doubles as a hose clamp socket driver
vice grips
gloves (for working on a hot engine)
zip ties
razor
flashlight
2 stroke, engine oil, some water.
most of this fits into the spare tire well in my vert, it would fit into one cargo bin in a coupe
spark plug wrench and your favorite socket driver
at least 2 extra leading spark plugs
10,12,13,14,17,19,21mm sockets
a few extensions
12,12,14mm open ends of your favorite type
i have the 4 way screwdriver that also doubles as a hose clamp socket driver
vice grips
gloves (for working on a hot engine)
zip ties
razor
flashlight
2 stroke, engine oil, some water.
most of this fits into the spare tire well in my vert, it would fit into one cargo bin in a coupe
09-06-12, 05:36 PM
#6
I was kind of interested in what tools people actually carry in their 7's. Weather it's a daily commute or a road trip there are certain things I don't like to travel without.
spark plug wrench and your favorite socket driver
at least 2 extra leading spark plugs
10,12,13,14,17,19,21mm sockets
a few extensions
12,12,14mm open ends of your favorite type
i have the 4 way screwdriver that also doubles as a hose clamp socket driver
vice grips
gloves (for working on a hot engine)
zip ties
razor
flashlight
2 stroke, engine oil, some water.
most of this fits into the spare tire well in my vert, it would fit into one cargo bin in a coupe
spark plug wrench and your favorite socket driver
at least 2 extra leading spark plugs
10,12,13,14,17,19,21mm sockets
a few extensions
12,12,14mm open ends of your favorite type
i have the 4 way screwdriver that also doubles as a hose clamp socket driver
vice grips
gloves (for working on a hot engine)
zip ties
razor
flashlight
2 stroke, engine oil, some water.
most of this fits into the spare tire well in my vert, it would fit into one cargo bin in a coupe
this
plus side-cutters, needle-nose pliers, Paper towels and a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze.
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09-06-12, 11:24 PM
#9
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^ haha
I used to carry ALL of my tools + two jacks and four jack stands in my car. I got sick of that **** clanking around in the back, and when sockets fly out of place... It's just a mess. I may put together a small bag for those "just in case" times.
One of the best tools I own is a heavy duty 1/2" Milwaukee electric impact gun that my father bought me.
I used to carry ALL of my tools + two jacks and four jack stands in my car. I got sick of that **** clanking around in the back, and when sockets fly out of place... It's just a mess. I may put together a small bag for those "just in case" times.
One of the best tools I own is a heavy duty 1/2" Milwaukee electric impact gun that my father bought me.
09-07-12, 12:17 AM
#10
Generally speaking, there are only a few tools needed for any roadside emergency. I put a lot of thought into my emergency kit to account for just about every kind of emergency that could come up. The only things not covered are catastrophic failures that would require jacking the car up, such as swapping a transmission.
Here's what I carry with me:
1/4" Socket set with 4-13mm normal & 6-12mm deepwell sockets plus a spinner handle (Popular Mechanics PM6-38564 20 piece Metric 1/4" Drive Socket Set)
33 piece screwdriver bit set with a square drive adapter to use the socket set's handle
6" Crescent Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers w/cutting edge
Vise Grips
Wire Strippers/Crimpers, electrical tape & terminal assortment (including two battery lugs)
Multimeter
Small hammer & 1"x4"x4" wood block
Gloves & Poncho
Two LED lights w/hanging hooks, rechargeable with hand crank & USB
4awg Jumper Cables made using welding cable
2-port USB phone charger & appropriate cable for my phone (in center console)
With only 14 tools, it will cover nearly any possible roadside emergency, up to having to crimp on new battery lugs using the largest flathead screwdriver bit, socket spinner handle, hammer & vise grips. Anything bigger than this emergency kit would require being towed home or a floor jack and stands to repair, so I've omitted those scenarios in favor of being able to have a charged cell phone regardless of the car's battery.
That idea came from my friend Todd. A couple years ago, the power at his house went out while I was there. Since he lives out in the woods, AT&T gave him a mini-tower so he'd have cell service. No power means he had no phone and his landline was through Time Warner so that was KO'ed as well. Since my cell is on T-mobile, I had a weak signal but a very low battery. So we brought out his LED camping lanterns. One of them powered by either a hand crank or batteries, has a radio and a USB port for phone charging along with a short cable & adapters for the major kinds of phones. Thankfully, there was one for my G1 so we could call the electric company to get out there. Thought it'd be a good idea to take that sensibility in the car.
Here's what I carry with me:
1/4" Socket set with 4-13mm normal & 6-12mm deepwell sockets plus a spinner handle (Popular Mechanics PM6-38564 20 piece Metric 1/4" Drive Socket Set)
33 piece screwdriver bit set with a square drive adapter to use the socket set's handle
6" Crescent Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers w/cutting edge
Vise Grips
Wire Strippers/Crimpers, electrical tape & terminal assortment (including two battery lugs)
Multimeter
Small hammer & 1"x4"x4" wood block
Gloves & Poncho
Two LED lights w/hanging hooks, rechargeable with hand crank & USB
4awg Jumper Cables made using welding cable
2-port USB phone charger & appropriate cable for my phone (in center console)
With only 14 tools, it will cover nearly any possible roadside emergency, up to having to crimp on new battery lugs using the largest flathead screwdriver bit, socket spinner handle, hammer & vise grips. Anything bigger than this emergency kit would require being towed home or a floor jack and stands to repair, so I've omitted those scenarios in favor of being able to have a charged cell phone regardless of the car's battery.
That idea came from my friend Todd. A couple years ago, the power at his house went out while I was there. Since he lives out in the woods, AT&T gave him a mini-tower so he'd have cell service. No power means he had no phone and his landline was through Time Warner so that was KO'ed as well. Since my cell is on T-mobile, I had a weak signal but a very low battery. So we brought out his LED camping lanterns. One of them powered by either a hand crank or batteries, has a radio and a USB port for phone charging along with a short cable & adapters for the major kinds of phones. Thankfully, there was one for my G1 so we could call the electric company to get out there. Thought it'd be a good idea to take that sensibility in the car.
09-07-12, 01:31 AM
#11
Driving RX7's since 1979
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I truth, all you need is a 10mm, 12MM, 14MM, and 17mm socket and wrench's, ratchet with extension, a standard and small philips screwdriver, plyers and cresent wrench, and a flashlight and you're good for about any roadside need for a 1st or 2nd Gen. All would pretty much fit in the tool bag that came with the car stock.
Can't speak to 3rd Gens, never owned one.
Can't speak to 3rd Gens, never owned one.
09-07-12, 10:31 AM
#12
I'm not talking about a DIY, or tools needed page. I actually meant a tool discussion page. I saw it on other forums when I was searching on the matco cordless impact. There were discussions on comparisons. Some members were techs for years, others owned a tool truck franchise, some people were weekend wrenchers, and all the way to complete newbs asking questions on what tools to buy.
People can compare tool brands, quality, fabrication tools, auto body tools. This thread is making it sound like everyone has a $100 crapsman set! Just saw other forums with good discussions that helped me figure out which cordless impact i'm leaning to get. All in the $400-600 range, and I really need some experience from others
People can compare tool brands, quality, fabrication tools, auto body tools. This thread is making it sound like everyone has a $100 crapsman set! Just saw other forums with good discussions that helped me figure out which cordless impact i'm leaning to get. All in the $400-600 range, and I really need some experience from others
09-07-12, 10:41 AM
#13
I'm not talking about a DIY, or tools needed page. I actually meant a tool discussion page. I saw it on other forums when I was searching on the matco cordless impact. There were discussions on comparisons. Some members were techs for years, others owned a tool truck franchise, some people were weekend wrenchers, and all the way to complete newbs asking questions on what tools to buy.
People can compare tool brands, quality, fabrication tools, auto body tools. This thread is making it sound like everyone has a $100 crapsman set! Just saw other forums with good discussions that helped me figure out which cordless impact i'm leaning to get. All in the $400-600 range, and I really need some experience from others
People can compare tool brands, quality, fabrication tools, auto body tools. This thread is making it sound like everyone has a $100 crapsman set! Just saw other forums with good discussions that helped me figure out which cordless impact i'm leaning to get. All in the $400-600 range, and I really need some experience from others
and "crapsman", no. call it what you want, but it breaks you bring it in a get a new one. no questions asked. and no waiting for a snap-on/mac truck...
09-07-12, 10:54 AM
#14
I'm not talking about a DIY, or tools needed page. I actually meant a tool discussion page. I saw it on other forums when I was searching on the matco cordless impact. There were discussions on comparisons. Some members were techs for years, others owned a tool truck franchise, some people were weekend wrenchers, and all the way to complete newbs asking questions on what tools to buy.
People can compare tool brands, quality, fabrication tools, auto body tools. This thread is making it sound like everyone has a $100 crapsman set! Just saw other forums with good discussions that helped me figure out which cordless impact i'm leaning to get. All in the $400-600 range, and I really need some experience from others
People can compare tool brands, quality, fabrication tools, auto body tools. This thread is making it sound like everyone has a $100 crapsman set! Just saw other forums with good discussions that helped me figure out which cordless impact i'm leaning to get. All in the $400-600 range, and I really need some experience from others
electric may be more convenient but it also will cost more and have less power. i will always stick with my pneumatic tools. **** electric. i have a snapon electric impact, of course the battery took a dump shortly after i got it, and the battery isn't covered by warranty so i have a worthless $250 impact now that is hardly used.
there is no best quality tools either, some name brands are slightly better than others but only marginally. after my 15 years i now don't bother buying tools from the trucks unless it is a specific tool that only they carry. get tools from sears, autozone or kragen, they all have lifetime warrantees and the counter guys don't give you **** about breaking them like the tool trucks will even though you spend a limb for basic tools there.
the flipside is the tool trucks don't always come around. while i could call and locate one i usually don't and wait for one to pass by. i haven't really seen a tool truck on our property since i moved to this location nearly 3 years ago(randomly snapon comes by but i have only seen him about 3 times in that period). i was the first automotive business here at the time and now the WHOLE building is automotive shops yet we only just now have a Matco truck coming by, i acosted the driver with a pile of tools and got some runaround about him being new, my shop not registered and him needing to use a different shop to warranty the tools. he did it but made it sound like he was doing me a favor.
stay away from cornwell, sears has better quality tools for less.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-07-12 at 10:59 AM.
09-07-12, 11:59 AM
#16
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the cordless stuff has some good points and some bad points.
the bad stuff, listed first because its IMPORTANT. the torque that you get varies with the battery charge! this means that you can use the cordless stuff to loosen anything, but you MUST check the torque on EVERYTHING. for a professional, like Karack, this makes it a no go. on the race team, i've got a guy with the gun, and there is a guy behind him with a torque wrench.
we've used the dewalt guns for years and they will do 110lbs ft with a fresh battery, but as the charge drops so does the torque. the best example i have is that we had a tech who used nothing but the cordless, and my god cars would come back with all kinds of things falling off... wheels, spark plugs, you name it.
the good part is that they are pretty quiet, and you don't have the stupid air hose.
the bad stuff, listed first because its IMPORTANT. the torque that you get varies with the battery charge! this means that you can use the cordless stuff to loosen anything, but you MUST check the torque on EVERYTHING. for a professional, like Karack, this makes it a no go. on the race team, i've got a guy with the gun, and there is a guy behind him with a torque wrench.
we've used the dewalt guns for years and they will do 110lbs ft with a fresh battery, but as the charge drops so does the torque. the best example i have is that we had a tech who used nothing but the cordless, and my god cars would come back with all kinds of things falling off... wheels, spark plugs, you name it.
the good part is that they are pretty quiet, and you don't have the stupid air hose.
09-07-12, 04:55 PM
#17
that's true, air pressure usually gives very similar results regardless if it is 75psi or 130psi. an electric gun without a full charge will vary quite a bit.
and the electrics have some pretty stupid high claimed specs, i looked at one 24v electric impact that was rated at 745ft/lbs of torque. do you think it will do even a fraction of that? no. i have no idea what they are using to calculate these specs but i would never trust it to even pull off a flywheel nut. my Mac has a rated 550ft/lbs and it will never even come close to that(it is also the most powerful impact i have ever used in a 1/2" size), it struggles to get up to about 275ft/lbs at 130psi of line pressure with no extensions. the longer an extension you use, the more breakaway torque is required. basically the 1/2" pneumatic can barely torque a flywheel nut properly, an electric will probably barely get wheel lugs on tight which is 1/3 the torque spec, luckily the flywheel nut is about the tightest you will ever need to tighten a nut on a passenger car.
even if the electric does have that much breakaway torque, it may just break your wrist if you aren't careful as weight is a factor to consider as well. i also have one of the most powerful 3/8" air ratchets that was available, it will break your fingers if you don't hold onto that thing with both hands.
i have a Kel-tec 223 sport rifle, it is made of composites so it is ultra light. it also kicks much harder than most conventional metallic counterparts. the battery is probably ok at balancing those impacts more than i give it credit for, after the smaller impact i wasn't impressed and didn't try another. my Kimber .45ACP is the opposite, it is heavy and bulky but balanced perfectly, it kicks smoothly, even the girls like shooting it.
and the electrics have some pretty stupid high claimed specs, i looked at one 24v electric impact that was rated at 745ft/lbs of torque. do you think it will do even a fraction of that? no. i have no idea what they are using to calculate these specs but i would never trust it to even pull off a flywheel nut. my Mac has a rated 550ft/lbs and it will never even come close to that(it is also the most powerful impact i have ever used in a 1/2" size), it struggles to get up to about 275ft/lbs at 130psi of line pressure with no extensions. the longer an extension you use, the more breakaway torque is required. basically the 1/2" pneumatic can barely torque a flywheel nut properly, an electric will probably barely get wheel lugs on tight which is 1/3 the torque spec, luckily the flywheel nut is about the tightest you will ever need to tighten a nut on a passenger car.
even if the electric does have that much breakaway torque, it may just break your wrist if you aren't careful as weight is a factor to consider as well. i also have one of the most powerful 3/8" air ratchets that was available, it will break your fingers if you don't hold onto that thing with both hands.
i have a Kel-tec 223 sport rifle, it is made of composites so it is ultra light. it also kicks much harder than most conventional metallic counterparts. the battery is probably ok at balancing those impacts more than i give it credit for, after the smaller impact i wasn't impressed and didn't try another. my Kimber .45ACP is the opposite, it is heavy and bulky but balanced perfectly, it kicks smoothly, even the girls like shooting it.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-07-12 at 05:05 PM.
09-07-12, 05:22 PM
#18
that's true, air pressure usually gives very similar results regardless if it is 75psi or 130psi. an electric gun without a full charge will vary quite a bit.
and the electrics have some pretty stupid high claimed specs, i looked at one 24v electric impact that was rated at 745ft/lbs of torque. do you think it will do even a fraction of that? no. i have no idea what they are using to calculate these specs but i would never trust it to even pull off a flywheel nut. my Mac has a rated 550ft/lbs and it will never even come close to that(it is also the most powerful impact i have ever used in a 1/2" size), it struggles to get up to about 275ft/lbs at 130psi of line pressure with no extensions. the longer an extension you use, the more breakaway torque is required. basically the 1/2" pneumatic can barely torque a flywheel nut properly, an electric will probably barely get wheel lugs on tight which is 1/3 the torque spec, luckily the flywheel nut is about the tightest you will ever need to tighten a nut on a passenger car.
even if the electric does have that much breakaway torque, it may just break your wrist if you aren't careful as weight is a factor to consider as well. i also have one of the most powerful 3/8" air ratchets that was available, it will break your fingers if you don't hold onto that thing with both hands.
i have a Kel-tec 223 sport rifle, it is made of composites so it is ultra light. it also kicks much harder than most conventional metallic counterparts. the battery is probably ok at balancing those impacts more than i give it credit for, after the smaller impact i wasn't impressed and didn't try another. my Kimber .45ACP is the opposite, it is heavy and bulky but balanced perfectly, it kicks smoothly, even the girls like shooting it.
and the electrics have some pretty stupid high claimed specs, i looked at one 24v electric impact that was rated at 745ft/lbs of torque. do you think it will do even a fraction of that? no. i have no idea what they are using to calculate these specs but i would never trust it to even pull off a flywheel nut. my Mac has a rated 550ft/lbs and it will never even come close to that(it is also the most powerful impact i have ever used in a 1/2" size), it struggles to get up to about 275ft/lbs at 130psi of line pressure with no extensions. the longer an extension you use, the more breakaway torque is required. basically the 1/2" pneumatic can barely torque a flywheel nut properly, an electric will probably barely get wheel lugs on tight which is 1/3 the torque spec, luckily the flywheel nut is about the tightest you will ever need to tighten a nut on a passenger car.
even if the electric does have that much breakaway torque, it may just break your wrist if you aren't careful as weight is a factor to consider as well. i also have one of the most powerful 3/8" air ratchets that was available, it will break your fingers if you don't hold onto that thing with both hands.
i have a Kel-tec 223 sport rifle, it is made of composites so it is ultra light. it also kicks much harder than most conventional metallic counterparts. the battery is probably ok at balancing those impacts more than i give it credit for, after the smaller impact i wasn't impressed and didn't try another. my Kimber .45ACP is the opposite, it is heavy and bulky but balanced perfectly, it kicks smoothly, even the girls like shooting it.
My nephew just got an ultralight judge
I warned him before he got it that I wanted to see the Youtube of him facebreaking the muzzle due to recoil. 
Balance is the key: His Glock 27 is also a handful. He is a better shot first round, but my 2nd and up rounds are much faster and tighter with my 26, even better with the 19. At age 29 he thinks bigger and lighter is better. Not necessarily so.
09-07-12, 05:25 PM
#19
Kimber=nice piece.
My nephew just got an ultralight judge I warned him before he got it that I wanted to see the Youtube of him facebreaking the muzzle due to recoil.
Balance is the key: His Glock 27 is also a handful. He is a better shot first round, but my 2nd and up rounds are much faster and tighter with my 26, even better with the 19. At age 29 he thinks bigger and lighter is better. Not necessarily so.
My nephew just got an ultralight judge
I warned him before he got it that I wanted to see the Youtube of him facebreaking the muzzle due to recoil. Balance is the key: His Glock 27 is also a handful. He is a better shot first round, but my 2nd and up rounds are much faster and tighter with my 26, even better with the 19. At age 29 he thinks bigger and lighter is better. Not necessarily so.
09-07-12, 07:11 PM
#21
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i don't know much about guns, but F=MA, so a lighter gun will kick harder...
09-08-12, 12:54 AM
#24
I always torque by hand or torque wrench also. The customers at the shop I work at are totally ****, but it's also good practice. I like the electric stuff, especially when we go to the track. Also we don't have the best air compressor and air hose reel, so its nice to not need the air line. Not to mention the air line rubbing against the side of the car.
Maybe we should start a tool section! I saw other forums with it. i'm debating on buying these Knipex electrical pliers now too. I love their bolt cutters!
Maybe we should start a tool section! I saw other forums with it. i'm debating on buying these Knipex electrical pliers now too. I love their bolt cutters!
09-08-12, 09:14 AM
#25
I always torque by hand or torque wrench also. The customers at the shop I work at are totally ****, but it's also good practice. I like the electric stuff, especially when we go to the track. Also we don't have the best air compressor and air hose reel, so its nice to not need the air line. Not to mention the air line rubbing against the side of the car.
Maybe we should start a tool section! I saw other forums with it. i'm debating on buying these Knipex electrical pliers now too. I love their bolt cutters!
Maybe we should start a tool section! I saw other forums with it. i'm debating on buying these Knipex electrical pliers now too. I love their bolt cutters!