waterpump installation heeeellllpp!!!
#1
ugly girls hurt my eyes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Newark,NJ
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
waterpump installation heeeellllpp!!!
i acquired a new waterpump for my 89 vert but the gasket was broken... everywhere i went to find a gasket doesnt sell without the pump. now i know rotary engines run a little hotter than normal piston engines but will this gasket making silicone work as a reliable replacement?
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
There are a couple of ways to do it, here's mine...
Clean the flange of the part to be gasketed (in this case, the waterpump).
Cover the part/flange with masking tape and trace the flange and holes with a pencil.
Remove tape and apply to gasket sheet.
First, you want to take care of the holes, I use a wood spade bit and drill them on the drill press. The spade (or brad point) bit will make a very clean hole in the paper.
Then use an Exacto or single edge razor blade to cut out the inside/outside edges of the gasket.
Remove tape template.
The whole process takes about 15 minutes.
When installing, lightly smear grease (wheel bearing works fine) on both sides of the gasket.
This is not for sealing (the "crush" of the paper handles that) but does help keep the paper from sticking, and possibly tearing, when removed later.
#9
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
Buy the sheet of gasket material.
Trace the outline of the water pump and mark the bolt/stud holes
Cut it out.
Trim the holes with an xacto knife.
Mount the gasket on the back of the pump body with the studs/bolts.
Use the exacto knife to cut out to match water passages of the gaskets.
Smear a very thin coat of RTV Blue on both surfaces of your gasket.
Apply the gasket and mount the waterpump.
Torque to the proper specs.
Done
Or do what clokker sez
#11
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Terrace Bay, Ontario
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One note... try and use the same thickness of gasket material as the original. There are shims on two of the waterpump studs, to keep the pump from torquing, due to the gasket, when all nuts are tighted. If your gasket is thicker, you would need to add more shims.
#12
S5 T2
iTrader: (6)
I use a slightly different method that requires less precision myself. I just lay the gasket paper over the part, and tap around the edges with a small ball peen hammer. It perforates the paper and allows me to tear the gasket out no problem. And I just poke out the mounting holes with an x-acto after that.
The above methods probably look cleaner though, if done right.
The above methods probably look cleaner though, if done right.
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: mass
Posts: 756
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rub a thin layer of vaseline on the waterpump where the gasket would go. Press it down on your gasket material. Cut out your new shape with a razor.
or
Just use a sealer. It works fine.
or
Just use a sealer. It works fine.
#21
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
The spacers are between the waterpump housing and the front cover.
Since the housing does not sit flat on the front cover the spacers are necessary to keep it from cracking.
The waterpump- and the gasket in question- fit in the housing (which is already flat and stabilized), so the gasket- of whatever thickness- has no effect on the spacers or the housing itself.
Since the housing does not sit flat on the front cover the spacers are necessary to keep it from cracking.
The waterpump- and the gasket in question- fit in the housing (which is already flat and stabilized), so the gasket- of whatever thickness- has no effect on the spacers or the housing itself.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
24seven_dada
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
20
11-10-18 12:03 PM
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM