The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Hello guys! I am having terrible a slight problem. My AFM Gauge reads rich when in cruise mode. I guess it is not going into "Closed Loop". I have been reading many a threads on this, and decided to check all my voltages at the ECU. My Thermo Sensor at warm up is supposed to read 0.4-1.8V. Mine reads 0.38V. Could this cause my car not to go into closed loop?
Thanks all,
Chris

car: 88t2 fresh atkins street port

all put back together for smog in california...... :0(

WAYNE88N/A

No, you're good. IIRC, voltage goes down the hotter the coolant is. I'll go get my "book" and double check this a little later to be sure...

So you're staring at an A/F gauge while cruising in fifth gear with a steady throttle, and you're seeing no closed loop operation?

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Yes, no closed loop at all. No matter what I do I can not get into closed loop.

Not to spec:
Water Thermo Sensor .38v

Another wierd thing, I think. I get no air from the Switching Solenoid Valve to the Air Control Valve like the book says.

The below is in spec:
My TPS is set to 1.0v
Air Flow Meter 2.54v (Warmed Up)
Intake AIr Temp Sensor 1.71v (Warmed Up)
Pressure Reg Control 13.06v (at Idle)
Switching Solenoid Valve 13.04 (At Idle)
Relief Solenoid Valve 1.78 v (At Idle)
BAC 9.10v

WAYNE88N/A

9.1v on the BAC isn't right, if you're idling with no loads at 750 rpms or so. When's the last time you adjusted your mechanical idle to spec?

The BAC is opening up at about a 40% duty cycle at 9v...

With a well adjusted idle, with every load I have on the car on (e-fan, headlights, radio, etc...) mine only falls to about 11v...

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I adjusted the idle to spec. You can see the TPS is set to 1.0v. Then I the rest to factory settings. Coupled that little green connector, turned the car on. hen made the adjustments like the manual says. Got a perfect idle then. Maybe a little bouncy, but close to 750.

WAYNE88N/A

Your thermo sensor input is good, as long as the engine was fairly warm when you took the reading (maybe 1/3 on the temp gauge on an S4)

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Yes, that would be right. Well, ****, I guess I need to look for a vacume leak. I am at witts end.

HAILERS

Here's what you do. Your read this http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

Then you get a LED and look at the picture on that post that shows the six socket green plug.

One wire of the LED goes to the ABR socket. The RED wire of the LED. The other wire off the LED goes to the socket called GL.

You run this outfit into the cabin. Anyway you want. Even through the drivers window if you want. You'll of course have to splice two long wires to the LED to do this.

Now start the car and go for a drive. I THINK once your above approx 1700rpms or so, and not under acceleration, the LED will blink on and off showing your 02 sensor is interfacing with your ECU and the ECU is in closed loop.

How 'bout them apples?

The ABR wire in the plug should be a Black/White wire.

I think I did this once sometime ago in another universe.

NZConvertible

If you're not going into closed-loop the first thing you should do is replace the O2 sensor. Old sensors get clogged up and don't react fast enough for the ECU to control in a closed loop manner.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I have replaced the sensor. But, I have a pic to show you guys. If I read right, it is possible to crimp the wire with the shielding and create a "short". So, if I touch the negative probe to the body using a ohm meter, and the other to the main O2 wire, there should be no reading, Correct? Here is what I get.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

As well, guys, that you very much. The three of you are just mad men! I have checked all the things mentioned above, want you to know I am not overlooking your writtings.

WAYNE88N/A

Uh, yeah, you don't want to be crimping a shielded wire (any shielded wire) without first splaying the shielding back about 3/4". In other words, strip the outer jacket from the shield about 1" from the end of the wire, and push the shielding back away from the center wire end. If it's braided, it will "splay" out as you're pushing it. You can then work with it to attach another wire/crimp to it that can be ran to ground (it helps if you cut it lengthwise, so the shield can be moved to just one side of the wire). That make any sense? Man, it's really hard to explain this with just words, lol...

Now the meter picture- I can't figure out what you're trying to show us. Is the center conductor shorted to the shield or what? That (of course) won't work- the sensor's output will go directly to ground, and the ECU won't get anything...