Okay so I had to change the water pump on my gslse. It ran fine prior to. The coolant temp sensor ( on the back of the thermostat housing ) broke off. Didn't know it was important. Started the car. It ran like *** smoked everywhere and sounded like it had a full Bridgeport. So I put the sensor out of a known working S5 13B in it. Now it'll start, rev to about 2k and die. If I unplug the sensor it'll run a little longer. Had it idling for 45 seconds with it unplugged but if I touched the gas itd die. Please I really need help

 

I think I have a spare thermostat housing if you need one. PM me if interested.

 

It's not the thermostat housing

 

Don't feel bad, I also broke it changing the water pump. Way to easy to do....

 

Go to parts store buy new temp sensor fairly cheap. Unplug old sensor connect to new sensor . Use a lighter to heat up the brass end of the new temp sensor . This should trick the ecu to think the car is up to temp . Very important as the temp sensor is at the moment asking the ecu for to much fuel why it's not running right . Start car mite have to keep some heat on the brass end of sensor
Let car run and get heat in it before plugging back into old temp sensor . 84 85 se have to come to operating temp before turning off for the ecu to be right good luck

 

I'll try that

 

Looks like O'Reilly Auto has it for $16.

MasterPro Ignition 2-9305 - Coolant Temperature Sensor | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

My bad, should have said I had a spare housing with a good sensor in it. But at $16 from O'Reilly's, probably the best way to go.

 

The ones from oriellies aren't in spec. I bought one didn't work, tested it and it wasn't in range

 

I think first, second, and third gens us the same sensor . Not sure what you mean about out of
Spec?
When you first try to start the car it's going to run like crap, it's been that way since you broke the sensor. Need to get the ecu and engine to the same point 180 degrees operating temp. When heating the new sensor you have to keep it above 180 till the engine thermostat opens and you feel heat in the radiator . At that point you can plug back into the old sensor. Rember we are tricking the ecu to think the engine is up to operating temp, it will not start like normally when it's a cold start you will have to keep it running . Should start to run better as long as you keep the new sensor 180 . Kinda a two man job some one keeping the sensor 180 and some one keeping the car running . Let us know how it's going

 

The car will not start at all without it hooked up though

 

Do I have to heat the sensor to start it?

 

Heating it didn't work

 

Are you keeping heat on it thru the whole process . Get the sensor hot keep it hot till the car is up to temp . It's proble so flooded now, will it even fire ?

 

Yes. No it isn't flooded. The injectors aren't injecting fuel. It won't fire. I checked the fusible links. Everything there is fine

 

Update. It will only turn over now. Will not fire at all period. With the sensor plugged in or unplugged. No difference

 

This is the sensor I have. After replacing this sensor, I would remove the spark plugs, pull the blue spade connector off of the coil and pull the EFI fusible link. Turn the engine over to blow out any crap and then put everything back. Now try to start it. If it starts, keep it at a reasonably high RPM to keep it running until it warms up. Hopefully then your problem will be solved. Check also for any vacuum hoses that may have come loose while you changed out your water pump. Good luck, I'll send this out today.

 

Sent you a pm.

 

I am so glad I have a carburetor.

 

You said it, friend. I tried EFI in various forms a total of four times across several vehicles over the years, including a GSL-SE, and each time it was more work and less performance than I anticipated.

To the thread starter, I'm not telling you to ditch EFI, but you might consider it. Now my GSL-SE has a carb and I couldn't be happier.

 

Cars fixed. The injectors were clogged up