You an use the other values as well. The 1-5 should be fine, with the 1 and 2 being most common. I just told you to get the 1N4007 because it's the most generic of them all. The only real difference in the last number is the voltage rating.

 

Yeah, I'm glad I looked at Aaron's site before starting or I would of been using acid core solder.

I'm also not sure why people wouldn't use a de-soldering iron while doing this (as a lot of people don't). It doesn't take very long to do and I found flowing new solder in was easier (I tried to redo some I had put down and ended up just sucking it off and redoing it).

I think people keep telling me to junk it for 2 reasons.
1. They can't or don't bother to read.
2. In general, it tends to be the usual advice given to people in my situation. Most people would junk it if they found a board in the shape mine is. But, this goes back to #1.

I'm kinda surprised Icemark hasn't chimed in on the thread (although Aaron/other's pretty much have it covered). He should tell me how to do the LED's . Then again if he did he would give away a trade secret.

GAH! Now you tell me.

The 1-5's were a lot smaller so I figured I couldn't. Once again, Aaron saves the day! I'll probably use the biggest I can find because they looked easier to work with.

In light of these new developments (in a Walter Cronkite voice), I should have this done Friday and post up the results Monday. I don't look forward to messing with the 24 gauge wiring... but it should be a "fun" challenge. And hopefully I'll have my write-up/how to done sometime next week.

P.S. Thanks for all the help Aaron (and others). I definitely would be screwed without it.

 

A few updates.

1. I think my solder tip is gone. I can't melt the solder with the tip anymore so that made it kinds difficult to solder what I had left.

2. The 1N4005 is the same size as what the others are. I put that in semi-successfully.

3. Installing the jumper wires was a super duper bitch.

Ok, now for the kicker. I'm 1 step away (besdies putting it together) from being done. There's a part that I have no idea where to solder the wires to. Attached is a picture of it alone and it on the board but de-soldered. I thought I had taken a picture of where it should be... but I guess not.

 

Where's Icemark when you need him.

Anywho, here's another tip if you try this. Don't rest your finger on a de-soldering iron. They get... kinda... hot.

 

I don't know how I missed this thread, I definitely would have chipped in; I'm glad to see you got quick help from others though. That's all I had to say, because I have no idea where the thing in the photo goes! I'd have to take mine apart - maybe AbortRetryFail is dismantling his now and can help out?

Anyway, good job, let's hope it works on the first try!

 

All good steve. I'm working on getting a couple more so if/when I get those I'll be able to find out. I was just hoping someone knew so I could finish this project and see how badly... er... well I did.

If it doesn't work when I plug it in I'm going to throw it across the street.

Really though, I'll probably go check my jumper wires. I had to put in 4 of them. Those damn things are hard to hold while holding solder and an iron. Talk about needing 3 hands...

 

I got in another warning cluster and opened it up real quick. I found where the wires go.

Now that I know it's pretty obvious.

Hopefully it'll be done this coming week and I'll get the writeup done.

 

shfjklhsadlfklksdjahfklsdalfsdjklah!!!!!!

Good news and bad news.

Good: I got it back together and the clock works perfectly.

Bad: The Brake light won't come on.

It just doesn't end...

Oh, and anybody know where to find replacement bulbs? One of mine was burned out. I have a replacement from another cluster (just got it in... yay for being able to compare), but now I need one for that cluster...

 

I'm trying to do a project with my warning light cluster and this thread really helped me out. I'm trying to identify this part (https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=222259). Underneath the tape it is labeled with a triforce-like symbol with the code "T130AR1U1 .C:". Does anyone have an idea what it is and a suitable replacement?

 

My5ABaby had the same question - have you checked out his write-up?
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...=263&co=1&vi=1
If the info's not in there you might ask him.

 

Ah. I'm not sure what it is, but I know where it goes. Hope that helps.

 

^ Hmm I should make it ok for this forum to link to GV photos... In the meantime, just check it out in the link.

 

I thought it was showing up because it was cached. Like steve said, just hit the link he posted up earlier.

 

It should show up now! That's basically to stop random people from hosting ****, but forums I know should be allowed to link like that.

 

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!! I finished it a while ago and installed it, just never got around to posting it up.