Keisuke Takahashi

There's this warm up device I heard that was in the engines. When you start the car, the engine immediately shoots up to 2000 RPM then as it warms up, it goes down until you hit idle point. I heard it can be removed. What's the device called?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Accelerated Wearout system.

loskeezy

Here's a link that should help ya out
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...d+start+assist

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you are talking about the 3K startup and the AWS solenoid, then it can be easily disabled by jumping the wires connected to the thermoswitch at the bottom drivers side of the rad.

If you are talking about the cold start cam thermowax assembly that gives you the 1500RPM high cold idle, then my advice is to keep it.

stevej88na

Agreed!

powrdby13B

We're not talking about keeping the device that Mazda issued a factory service bulletin instructing dealers to remove are we? If we are, look in the ARCHIVE for a thread on how to take it out because i'm 99% sure there's gotta be one in there. Otherwise, check out the search button.

SpooledupRacing

my mazda dealer denys that claim

powrdby13B

my mazda dealer was unfamiliar with parts like "oil metering pump" and "rotor oil seal"
But now I know a guy that works there and he has a sick rx7 so I can't be askin for head gaskets and camshafts and all that anymore.
There's a thread in the archives about making a fast NA without spending money.. I think it's from back in like 04 or 05 but it should have either instructions or a link.

Icemark

There are three "warm up devices" on 49 state FC's.

There is the Cold Start Assist (which is what Aaron was talking about with the throttle plates and 1200-1500 idle when cold).

There is the AWS (Accelerated warm-up system) which when you start the car cold and in Neutral the RPMS jump up to 3000 for a few seconds then drop to the cold idle speed.

And there is the Sub-Zero Assist system, which injects coolant into the intake on below freezing starts. This system was never on California Emissions spec vehicles and has the TSB to remove if the dealer is servicing the car for emissions reasons in the 49 states.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

So, would you recommend just keeping the CSA or the CSA and AWS?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There's no reason to keep the AWS. It's one of the few "helper" systems on the car I tell people to ditch. The best way to do this is jumper the switch as I mentioned. That way you can keep the AWS solenoid as it provides extra air to the engine when the power steering loads it. The cold start assist (thermowax and cam) makes the car a hell of a lot easier to drive when the engine is cold, and there's no real reason to remove it...

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Ok, so I screwed myself. Shouldn't of had my rebuilder remove all that stuff...

Icemark

Unless you live in a climate that does not drop under 70F I recommend retaining the CSA.

As far as the AWS, I personally start my car with the transmission in 1st gear and holding the clutch in, so the AWS is bypassed anyway. The exception to that is when remote starting (Yes I have a remote start system with neutral safety hooked up on all my cars), and when starting with remote start, the 3000 RPM spike is perfect for kicking in the motor for remote starting.

As a side note, on my vert that is now running a megasquirt, of course I don't have the AWS.

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

you know now that it is getting colder ive kinda thought about getting a remote starter to help warm the engine in the morning.....Ice could you send me a pm on what kind of starter you use and what the specs, price are...

mine also does the rpm jump but it only goes to 2k..i noticed it today when it was damn cold

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Remote starters are so evil...Just get in the car, start it, put your seatbelt on and drive away...

Icemark

My vert has remote start, stock and aftermarket security, remote keyless entry, air conditioning and heated seats... is that extra evil??? Or only when I remote start with the top down and drive around with the top down and air condition on???

I actually heard a few years back that some providence in Canada was trying to ban remote starts because some family died when the car remote started and didn't shut off after its pre-set time and flooded the house with CO

Of course the DEI (viper/Python/Hornet/Clifford) remote starters that I use, have programable time up to 24 minutes run time, and neutral safety, so that the car would never start in gear (only starts when the tranny is in neutral).

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I feel dirty doing that, but damn does it make extremely hot days nice...

finishline

iTrader: (13)

ahhh.
no wonder when i start my car, and add a little gas then i let go,
it goes high for a couple of seconds, then drops to where it supposed to be.
750-800RPM.

i guess it's the AWS.

LAN

iTrader: (1)

Here's my shitty deal.

I start my car in cold temp. it will rev high about 2K and it will never come down unless the temp reaches normal. So I just drive the damn thing, which can be annoying if I hit a stop light., but usually I don't.

So, I've noticed this a lonnggg time ago without knowing about posts in here, that when I started the car in gear, it didn't rev high. Also when I did start the car without in gear, I'd just blip the throttle pedal a bit, and comes down to normal idle.

This method of blipping no longer works for me, but the START IN GEAR still works. However, if I start driving the car, or even just tap the throttle pedal, it will rev high again to 2K until the normal temp is reached.


So, I got rid of that crap the connects to the BAC/Stock Intercooler and the rev came down a bit lower now, but still annoys me. ( I know about idle adjustments -- a bit )


Now I pulled that lower piece 'plug' located on the driver's side radiator: Standing by the battery & looking down.

I have yet to test it when I get out of this place tonight.

How does this 'piece' work?

-- I guess it will connect something in there once a preset temp is reached, then sends that signal to "ecu?"

-- Do these 2 connectors need to be grounded? attached together or just left unplugged - (if unplugged from the 'piece'.)

I marked one of the connectors just in case I need to plug them back.

I will post back with the results.

In the meantime, see pic: courtesy of Twofer. Also thanks for the advice Alex6969.

LAN

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I drove off, but I wasnt sure if it made a difference unplugging the connectors from that lower 'piece' on the radiator.

I started the car in gear,.. nice idle then took off all the way home for 15 miles. by the time I hit a light, the car was all warmed up that it was back to perfect idle.

..but I think I stopped a moment and the idle went back up, not as bad as before, but not sure.

Do I need to ground these connectors? "Jump" them as In connect both connectors together?

Aaron Cake says Jump them, but not sure what that means..I must be thinking too hard...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I don't like them because people here have the habit of starting their car 45 minutes before they leave the house to "warm it up" and melt the snow/ice off the windows. It's just a horrible waste of money to burn through all that gas (these are the same people who complain about the cost of fuel as their Excursion idles for almost an hour in the driveway....). We also have laws here that make it illegal to leave a running car with no occupant because of the obvious safety hazards.

Connect them together.

LAN

iTrader: (1)

Thanks,
It's a bit cold here now about 37`F.
Got that AWS yanked out a while back, and the connectors from the lower driver's side radiator piece. Jumped the wires, and it seems to not really help that much.

What the hell is going on here.

I have a perfect idle.. P e r f e c t once warmed up, but not during cold starts that won't last for a dam long time until ---completely-- warmed up. wtf.

ViperDude152

Thats what the BACV does. The AWS is only used for the 3000 rpm warmup. Its an open or closed valve. It doesn't very the opening degree.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Both the BAC and AWS open due to power steering loads. If you don't believe me, check the FSM or scope it for yourself.