Warm up device on second gen...
 

There's this warm up device I heard that was in the engines. When you start the car, the engine immediately shoots up to 2000 RPM then as it warms up, it goes down until you hit idle point. I heard it can be removed. What's the device called?

Accelerated Wearout system.

:rlaugh:
Here's a link that should help ya out
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...d+start+assist

If you are talking about the 3K startup and the AWS solenoid, then it can be easily disabled by jumping the wires connected to the thermoswitch at the bottom drivers side of the rad.

If you are talking about the cold start cam thermowax assembly that gives you the 1500RPM high cold idle, then my advice is to keep it.

Agreed!

We're not talking about keeping the device that Mazda issued a factory service bulletin instructing dealers to remove are we? If we are, look in the ARCHIVE for a thread on how to take it out because i'm 99% sure there's gotta be one in there. Otherwise, check out the search button.

my mazda dealer denys that claim

my mazda dealer was unfamiliar with parts like "oil metering pump" and "rotor oil seal"
But now I know a guy that works there and he has a sick rx7 so I can't be askin for head gaskets and camshafts and all that anymore.
There's a thread in the archives about making a fast NA without spending money.. I think it's from back in like 04 or 05 but it should have either instructions or a link.

There are three "warm up devices" on 49 state FC's.

There is the Cold Start Assist (which is what Aaron was talking about with the throttle plates and 1200-1500 idle when cold).

There is the AWS (Accelerated warm-up system) which when you start the car cold and in Neutral the RPMS jump up to 3000 for a few seconds then drop to the cold idle speed.

And there is the Sub-Zero Assist system, which injects coolant into the intake on below freezing starts. This system was never on California Emissions spec vehicles and has the TSB to remove if the dealer is servicing the car for emissions reasons in the 49 states.

So, would you recommend just keeping the CSA or the CSA and AWS?

There's no reason to keep the AWS. It's one of the few "helper" systems on the car I tell people to ditch. The best way to do this is jumper the switch as I mentioned. That way you can keep the AWS solenoid as it provides extra air to the engine when the power steering loads it. The cold start assist (thermowax and cam) makes the car a hell of a lot easier to drive when the engine is cold, and there's no real reason to remove it...

Ok, so I screwed myself. Shouldn't of had my rebuilder remove all that stuff... :redface:

Unless you live in a climate that does not drop under 70F I recommend retaining the CSA.

As far as the AWS, I personally start my car with the transmission in 1st gear and holding the clutch in, so the AWS is bypassed anyway. The exception to that is when remote starting (Yes I have a remote start system with neutral safety hooked up on all my cars), and when starting with remote start, the 3000 RPM spike is perfect for kicking in the motor for remote starting.

As a side note, on my vert that is now running a megasquirt, of course I don't have the AWS.

you know now that it is getting colder ive kinda thought about getting a remote starter to help warm the engine in the morning.....Ice could you send me a pm on what kind of starter you use and what the specs, price are...

mine also does the rpm jump but it only goes to 2k..i noticed it today when it was damn cold

Remote starters are so evil...Just get in the car, start it, put your seatbelt on and drive away...

My vert has remote start, stock and aftermarket security, remote keyless entry, air conditioning and heated seats... is that extra evil??? Or only when I remote start with the top down and drive around with the top down and air condition on???

I actually heard a few years back that some providence in Canada was trying to ban remote starts because some family died when the car remote started and didn't shut off after its pre-set time and flooded the house with CO

Of course the DEI (viper/Python/Hornet/Clifford) remote starters that I use, have programable time up to 24 minutes run time, and neutral safety, so that the car would never start in gear (only starts when the tranny is in neutral).

I feel dirty doing that, but damn does it make extremely hot days nice...

ahhh.
no wonder when i start my car, and add a little gas then i let go,
it goes high for a couple of seconds, then drops to where it supposed to be.
750-800RPM.

i guess it's the AWS.

I don't like them because people here have the habit of starting their car 45 minutes before they leave the house to "warm it up" and melt the snow/ice off the windows. It's just a horrible waste of money to burn through all that gas (these are the same people who complain about the cost of fuel as their Excursion idles for almost an hour in the driveway....). We also have laws here that make it illegal to leave a running car with no occupant because of the obvious safety hazards.

Connect them together.

Thats what the BACV does. The AWS is only used for the 3000 rpm warmup. Its an open or closed valve. It doesn't very the opening degree.

Both the BAC and AWS open due to power steering loads. If you don't believe me, check the FSM or scope it for yourself. :)