Viton Oil Rings
What does everyone think of them. I need to make a decision on it.
Last edited by Aaron Cake; Jun 29, 2007 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Remove HUGE signature
I'm using them on my current rebuild. I believe Atkins ships them with most of their kits that include oil rings.
Viton is generally good stuff. It's been being used in rotaries for a while for its resistant properties.
Viton is generally good stuff. It's been being used in rotaries for a while for its resistant properties.
I bought the atkins kit as well... but, I pulled their viton rings out and bought OEM ones. Reason: many engines that builders pull apart (even with super low miles) say that the viton rings almost ALWAYS end up failing or burning excessive oil.
That said, I'm sure tons of people have good luck with them.... but everybody that uses OEM ones never complains about the OEM ones... so why should I use viton ones? If it aint broke..........
Just my opinion.
That said, I'm sure tons of people have good luck with them.... but everybody that uses OEM ones never complains about the OEM ones... so why should I use viton ones? If it aint broke..........
Just my opinion.
I bought the atkins kit as well... but, I pulled their viton rings out and bought OEM ones. Reason: many engines that builders pull apart (even with super low miles) say that the viton rings almost ALWAYS end up failing or burning excessive oil.
That said, I'm sure tons of people have good luck with them.... but everybody that uses OEM ones never complains about the OEM ones... so why should I use viton ones? If it aint broke..........
Just my opinion.
That said, I'm sure tons of people have good luck with them.... but everybody that uses OEM ones never complains about the OEM ones... so why should I use viton ones? If it aint broke..........
Just my opinion.
Any links to guys talking about that?
Interesting. I haven't heard that, but I didn't research that side of things too heavily. I don't think knowing that will get me to buy OEM ones and toss the Viton, but then again I only plan on having my motor together for 30-40k or a few years. That's the same reason (along with being NA) that I went with Atkins apex seals.
Any links to guys talking about that?
Any links to guys talking about that?
oh ok well I want to buy that 2nd gen rotor kit from atkins but it has viton and i looked up on what atkins dan said and he said he hasn't had problems with them.
Last edited by Aaron Cake; Jun 29, 2007 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Remove HUGE signature
To preface: I love atkins.. I think they are great people with awesome experience, etc...etc.... But, I wouldn't buy something from them ONLY because they said they didn't have problems with them. I wouldn't buy something from mother teresa only because she said it was good....
I trust engine builders experience over the person selling them.
I trust engine builders experience over the person selling them.
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Hey no ummm look at this. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/viton-oil-o-rings-good-bad-582806/
Alright.. good thread I suppose.. Me being an Oregonian... I heed pineapple's advice over others I suppose.
However, just because something "lasts" a long time doesn't mean it ever worked perfect to begin with.
But, it was my opinion.. and I'm entitled to that. So, good luck.
However, just because something "lasts" a long time doesn't mean it ever worked perfect to begin with.
But, it was my opinion.. and I'm entitled to that. So, good luck.
1. They are measured in metric, so you ARE getting the right sized ring for your rotor. Atkins viton rings are measured in standard, so the outers are too small, and the inners are too big and will bunch a little. Viton rings are a bitch to install.. OEM ones aren't easy either, but aren't as hard as viton
2. They were formulated so that the optimum operating temperature coincides with the operating temperature of our engines.
3. The failure rate of OEM rings is almost 0.
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You could use the atkins seals though... they probably will last longer... but the OEM ones last 200k+ miles.... I don't think anybody has gotten the viton ones that high yet. They are definately cheaper. And if you McMaster-Carr them, they are even cheaper!
If 30k is a lot, then I'll ceremonially burn them.
I know I'm building a disposable motor (my Irons are goreous, but my housings have 2mm or less of chrome flake, which is useable to say the MOST). It's going to be a bridgeport too. Basically I'm setting it up to die, because it only has to last long enough for me to prepare the chassis for a turbo motor.
However... I DO want it to last more than 20-30k. Not a lot, but more.
Thanks for setting me straight.
I tried to post in this thread earlier, but the forum was broken... anyways...
I'm not buying the whole viton failure thing. Atkins has been using these for years and has put out alot of engines. They would never risk having to do all that warranty work!
Atkins' customers (many are professional/semi-prof. builders) have been using these and also have high engine success rates. Again, if they failed, why would builders continue to use them?
I have these rings in my N/A with 20k on them and the thing runs like new. I expect to lose compression way before the thing leaks oil.
The notion that these o-rings don't work "sometimes" is a bit self defeating IMO. If they work perfectly sometimes, then why not all the time? The only explanation is installer/user error.
As far as installation, I have never had a problem. All you need is a very flat and rigid piece of material. Metal (I just realized that a side iron would work really well for this) or thick tempered glass (you can see the ring pop in). I use the glass. Then, apply force in the middle with your hands. One side will pop in first and the other will quickly follow. The rigid material prevents you from applying uneven pressure and possibly weakening or breaking the metal rings.
I'm not buying the whole viton failure thing. Atkins has been using these for years and has put out alot of engines. They would never risk having to do all that warranty work!
Atkins' customers (many are professional/semi-prof. builders) have been using these and also have high engine success rates. Again, if they failed, why would builders continue to use them?
I have these rings in my N/A with 20k on them and the thing runs like new. I expect to lose compression way before the thing leaks oil.
The notion that these o-rings don't work "sometimes" is a bit self defeating IMO. If they work perfectly sometimes, then why not all the time? The only explanation is installer/user error.
As far as installation, I have never had a problem. All you need is a very flat and rigid piece of material. Metal (I just realized that a side iron would work really well for this) or thick tempered glass (you can see the ring pop in). I use the glass. Then, apply force in the middle with your hands. One side will pop in first and the other will quickly follow. The rigid material prevents you from applying uneven pressure and possibly weakening or breaking the metal rings.
I'm still holding fast to the "if it aint broke.." thing... I'll stick with OEM since they work perfectly fine. If I was worried about saving 50 bucks here and there on parts, I wouldn't have bought a rotary.
I concur with Micaheli.....OEM FTW!....the Japanese have likely poured their dedication and loyalty into research and development of those seals, much like they do with all other aspects of the engine.
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