2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Vert window motor

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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 01:06 PM
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cooliomo's Avatar
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From: Port Orchard, WA
Vert window motor

are vert window motors different than coupe ones? my vert door motor stopped working so i went to take one out my spare parts and they sit in different locations, and the coupe one seems like its attached to the rail.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 01:08 PM
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From: New Hampsha
sounds like youve got your answer
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 01:20 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Did you apply voltage to one of the motor wires and a ground to the other motor wire to verify that the motor was history?
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 01:45 PM
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From: Port Orchard, WA
Originally Posted by satch
Did you apply voltage to one of the motor wires and a ground to the other motor wire to verify that the motor was history?
No i did not just swapped switches, it clicks sometimes, and moves but stops working right after
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 02:18 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
It would be very easy to check the operating ability of the motor itself and chances are it's okay, but the switch is your likely problem.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cooliomo
No i did not just swapped switches, it clicks sometimes, and moves but stops working right after
So you declared the patient dead without actually checking if the patient was dead?

Sidebar, I used to live in Port Orchard as a little kid. Walking distance from the Ferry Docks. Beautiful area.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 04:46 PM
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whats that smell!?
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From: Port Orchard, WA
Originally Posted by HOZZMANRX7
So you declared the patient dead without actually checking if the patient was dead?

Sidebar, I used to live in Port Orchard as a little kid. Walking distance from the Ferry Docks. Beautiful area.
Can I use a 9v battery to check it?
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 04:48 PM
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Its not the switch cuz I have 2 other 7s that they work with
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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From: Austin
When our vert window went out several years ago I searched and found several threads on the topic. The lifts are vert specific and in addition to the switches being bad you'll find that the nylon pulley on the top of the lift wears thru and the cable snaps.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 06:01 PM
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From: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Remove the door panel.

Just run a couple long wires from the battery currently in the car. You can use a pair of jumper cables to simplify the process in conjunction with the two wires.

Unplug the connector to the window motor

Touch the postive and negative to the plug running to the motor and see what happens.

Bottom line, I've never seen or heard of a window motor failing. If this is indeed the case with yours, it would be a first from my experinece.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 07:10 PM
  #11  
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From: Port Orchard, WA
Ok ill do that. Now I see that my cable are loose maybe there off the track are they easy to put back on or do I have to pull the window and rail out?
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 07:30 PM
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From: Austin
I bet you'll find the nylon pulley is shot and the cable is jammed in the motor/gearbox.

Here is the write-up from the 2nd gen archives.

Rebuilding power window regulator for convertible
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Old Jun 13, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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From: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Originally Posted by vrracing
I bet you'll find the nylon pulley is shot and the cable is jammed in the motor/gearbox.

Here is the write-up from the 2nd gen archives.

Rebuilding power window regulator for convertible

+1

You need to pull the entire regulator to repair this issue. The FSM you can access online will walk you through.

But basically you pull the door panel, remove two 10mm nuts that hold window stops, remove the two nuts that hold the window to the regulator, remove the window, remove a few 12MM nuts that hold the regulator body to the door frame, remove the 10mm nuts that holds the regulator motor to the door frame, and squeeze the plastic connectors "holds" for the motor to regulator cables and push through. Then work the regulator out the largest access hole on the door frame. Installation is simply a reverse process.

Repairing, I've read how some will retrofit a metal pulley (off an FC manual window regulator?) and retrofitted it to the Vert regulator.

I've always thought that nylon pivot point design was a really dumb idea. Metal cable dragging across nylon will be cutting that nylon a little at a time each time until it finally cuts through. I've seen more than a couple nylon pivots fail for that reason.
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