vl4bad

Hey,

Since im looking into replacing and upgrading my oil cooler lines, i would like to see everyones opinion's on these few i've found while searching today.
Yes I know they're just SS hoses and fittings, yes they will all work just fine, but i would like some feedback on these. Thanks and hope this will clear out any questions from other people on this subject of our vehicles.

For reference I'm running the OEM Oil Cooler in stock location. No i dont want fancy aftermarket coolers.


86-91 Mazda FC RX-7 SS Braided Oil Cooler Line/Hose Kit [HRI-FC3-OILCOOL] - $205.00 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, In $205

FC3s Oil Cooler Lines $235

CORKSPORT Mazda Rx7 oil cooler lines $137

Oil Line Set for 86-92 RX-7 All - Racing Beat $236

Rotary Performance | FC Engine Cooling $199

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Everything with swivel fittings will begin to leak, on average within 2-3 years. The Corksport lines are the only set that uses the OEM style crimp fittings. They are the preferred lines to use. Just keep in mind they can be a little finicky to fit.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Because of the negatives with aftermarket lines, although expensive ($350), I went with the OE lines and no problems with installation.
I even went to a couple of shops that build hydraulic lines and when presented with the fittings on the OE lines, one couldn't or wouldn't do the job and the other was in the neighborhood of $300, rediculous, so OEM for me.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

I have the RB lines on my Tii and there is a bit of leaking(drip here and there) and my vert had the corksport lines...honestly even if the RB lines were around the same price i would probably grab another set of the corksports.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

For the price?.Corksport.
everything else is like at 100 bucks per hose..that's nuts!
I am sure Corksport lines are what I have on the car.(almost 6 years now).I bought them used from..a Guy...(you know..Da Guy..lol!)

monty11ez

I got a new hose made at the local hydrolic shop for $50.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i made them myself using AN fittings. um... keep in mind that its a pain in the butt to fit them cus the lines can be pretty stiff.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

I couldn't find any hydraulic shop that would make them for automotive

Soon as i said for a car, i got nopesville

vl4bad

Now that I've received validation from a few people on here regaurding the CorkSport product, I will be ordering them shortly when I get the chance. I was leaning towards the CorkSport lines as well.

Continue Reviewing the products you have used, the more feedback the greater it is for others to use this as reference to which product they should get based on budget + function. For something this important for our vehicles, its vital to have the best product to ensure of no problomatic oil issues for our vehicles engines. No Lube = No Rotations. Thanks for all of your input people!!

Stay Rotatin'!

BluVert

iTrader: (8)

I've got the CS lines on my TII. They were pretty easy to install and haven't seen any leaks. I did a bunch of searching on the forum prior to my purchase and the CS lines seemed to give people the least amount of trouble out of the other choices.

Dak

This may not be relevant but Mazdatrix used to sell some that looked just like the Rotary Performance ones. I may have these on my car. To be honest I can't remember which ones I bought Mazdatrix or Rotary Performance. Either way it was around 2000 or 2001 and I haven't had any problems.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Maybe no-name China built fittings with O-rings of rubber compounds manufactured by scraping whatever is left over off the floor. Quality fittings will use Viton or equivalent O-rings and will be machined well enough to not wear those O-rings out. But I do agree, only use swivel fittings where necessary.

DeaconBlue

iTrader: (31)

I made my own lines with swept fittings (to help reduce the pressure drops that can be seen with using banjo and forged fittings) and top quality push-on hose. No issues after two seasons of use.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I do not recommend push lock fittings and hose for oil pressure. I've had problems with them at work for track and time attack cars that see track use on the weekends. We even added clamps to them. it was the worst cleanup job at the track ever. Once we switched, we did not have any issues.

DeaconBlue

iTrader: (31)

Never put clamps (even those designed for silicone hose) over push-on hose at the fittings - it will cause the shark tooth barbs on the fittings to cut through the hose's inner liner layer. You also have to used a matched set of both top quality hose with the correct and recommended fittings. If you use cheap junk what you described will happen fairly quickly - even on the street.

With the upgraded Racing Beat oil pressure regulator and front springs shim kit, the max oil pressure is 105-115 PSI. I used Parker-Hannifin PushLok High Temperature 836 hose that is rated for oil up to 302F degrees and 400 PSI, which is much better than the more common GoodYear AutoGrip that is only rated to 200F degree for oil and 300 PSI.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I forgot the exact house we were using. We didn't put a clamp on it until after it blew off.

Do you track your car? I just don't even want to chance it anymore after those experiences we had on 2 different cars. At the same time we also had a famous professional driver with over 10 years experience, maybe 20, say he had issues with it before. Besides just driving he knows and understands a lot about fine tuning cars. The push lock we were using came with a well known companies oil cooler kit. I rather not screw them over the internet.

it's good you are having good luck with it and will get that hose you are recommending if I ever use push lock for any application

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

John your implementation looks great, I just don't want to chance it with push lock hose either. I agree that push lock is more sensitive to hose and hose end brand than your typical AN stuff. I would only ever use top quality hose and the recommended fittings for said hose.

I use Russell Pro Classic hose with AN fittings for all of my oil related stuff. I have not had a single problem with it and I have been skimping slightly on fittings using Summit or equivalent hose ends.

DeaconBlue

iTrader: (31)

Ashley - I fully understand your concerns. I just personally do not like using SS braided lines due to the abrasion issues and its a PITA to work with. Is it more durable, yes. It is 100% necessary on a track car, maybe depending on the rules. Is it absolutely needed on a street car that sees track time, maybe.

Now the newer fabric (nylon) braided lines that are rated up to 300 F degree and at least 350 PSI may be the trick setup. It is easier to work with, less likely to pinch and set, lighter weight and lower abrasion problems.

As always YMMV.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Agreed. I dislike the SS lines as well for the reasons you mentioned. I use the nylon braided lines. That is what the Russell Pro Classic hose is.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

In my experience, Push Lock style hoses are fine for dealing with pressure, but not heat. 200+ degree oil temps will soften the hose to the point the connection will fail. Clamping it is much, much worse.