The white dot is gone. I've read though another post, searching, etc, that there should be a 'nub' that can be felt. I can see and feel a rectangular nub, and there is a spot that maybe looks like it could be a dot, but not a nub.

The only other identifying spot I could see was this notch in the metal. Can the notch be used to position it? As long as notch is on the outside?

Going to position more tomorrow when I get off work, but wasn't sure without the dot there. If a rectangular, or square 'nub' is correct, I'll try lining that one up.

I've attached a picture of the FSM with a pointer to the notch I am talking about.

 

I forgot if everything is symmetrical, but you could probably mount it whichever way gives you the desired camber/castor, but I guess you won't know until you throw it on an alignment machine

 

That might work. It is purely for the track, and I'm not sure yet how much camber or castor I really want. haha. I don't know enough about suspension quite yet, so, I was trying to get it to stock.

 

For the e46 m3, the low budget camber castor plate was swapping the left to right. I think they got close to 3 degrees on stock camber plates. We did it a few times for some people with wheel fitment issues but didn't have camber plates yet. I forgot how much more castor you get

I guess just keep in mind clearances though. I don't think the fc top hat was very offset or not

 

Thanks! Hopefully someone will know on here? If not, I might just get them on there, and see about swapping when I can get it into an alignment shop. Engine is still a ways from being fully built, and getting megasquirt installed.... so, I have time.

 

If it was offset, it would not be by much and not make a significant difference. Just make sure you do thesame both sides and check clearances so everything sits flat and your not smashing something when you tighten the top bolts. Get some camber plays if your going to track! I got gc camber/ castor plates

 

The FC top mounts are the same on both sides, so nothing to gain by swapping them.

 

You can tell from looking at the picture or the strut top it has a slight offset.

You want that offset pointed towards the center and rear of the car for max camber and caster. (contrary to what the FSM actually says)

 

Awesome, thanks guys!

I was looking at GC plates, but wasn't sure if they worked with my RB springs and KYB AGX. I remember they weren't too expensive either.

 

for a track car you will basically want as much camber as you can get, and this means using camber plates and maxing them out, and this means that the RB springs won't work as they are so big in diameter that they hit the strut tower before you get the cambers you want. we all run the 2.5" diameter springs, GC is the west coast distributor...

with the stock strut top, you can probably get around -.5 degrees, and this is actually pretty ideal for a street car, and it'll do a track day here and there too.

 

Thanks j9fd3s!

I am looking at proper coilovers, but I have to spread my debt out. Right now, building engine up, and once that's it, I'll be replacing more suspension parts. Hoping to get at least 1 or 2 basic track days in this summer, but still have a bunch of dyno tuning time for the new engine setup.

I'll eventually post a 'build' thread, but, just haven't had time.

 

just rotate the strut tops to the inside and rear, i just eyeball it, as its off center enough to be pretty easy. the biggest improvement you can make to the car is the driver anyways, so there is nothing wrong with starting in a nearly stock car.

while you're in there, set the front toe to zero. in the rear, toe makes a HUGE difference, i played around with one of my cars on the street and briefly, the stock toe is very stable feeling all the time, and zero toe handles awesome, but it wants you to be on the gas early, which is tough on the street. i was happy at zero toe +1 notch of toe on each side. i guess i'd set yours to zero, and then season to taste.