Hi, I was wondering what is the easiest way to turn off the OMP pump cause its stuck pumping way to much oil into the motor and making it a bug killer, so im going to switch to 2 stoke oil and wondering if i just unplug it will that turn it off or will it put it into a limp mode?

 

by unpluging it will cause ecu to go into limp, if you want to run stock ecu you will have to replace omp which thru mazda is 1500 to 2000 dollars i am having same problem with mine right now, trying to figure out if there is a way to bypass it thru ecu by the way when the pump goes bad they are known to damage the ecu also

 

Block it off and leave it plugged into the harness or your car will go into limp mode.

 

how would i block it off? Crimp the lines? blockage plate?

 

What error code are you getting?

 

http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_S5_omp_bop.htm

http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ROD&ProdID=104

 

no error codes its just smoking a whole lot but i still have full power

 

If you're not getting error codes the OMP must be working OK, dontcha think?
Which would indicate that something else is the cause of all the smoke and disabling the OMP won't fix it.

 

you can buy an Rtek for an s5 that will eliminate limp mode.

 

Doesn't the OMP pump more oil past 5k rpm, so maybe its getting stuck on that mode, my fc if i rev it at around 5k I get lil puffs of blue smoke below 5k theres almost never any smoke.

 

That's my point...if the OMP was "stuck" you'd get an error code.

 

the feedback sensors at the EOMP go sick ( usually due to oil and dirt )
and the high resistance mid stroke can cause a code that forces the motor to run limp
- or force the EOMP electric motor to hunt that then burns out the ECU drivers
that is the common event sequence of the typical EOMP fail

the ECU will look for feedback from its position sensor, and if it sees it motionless , or never sees it reach a value equal to its setpoint
it will force the engine limp
( hence advice to remove, blank, and go premix , but leave old hanging and functional )

if you dont have a stock ECU, you can retain the EOMP at fixed rate
by substituting a spacer along the drives worm
- normally stroking 13 to 33 mm , slipping a 23mm spacer over the worm shaft will push the EOMP to half stroke
( the shaft at shortest stroke amounts to full flow from EOMP, the factory has two washers in there already to range its EOMPs output )

else, for those using that aftermarket ECU with no feedback stepper control functions
there is this standalone , tunable EOMP driver, working AOK , yes i helped a lot with it !
- aimed also for LPG users with late engines with EOMP
http://www.eomp.info


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD3082fzOBI - Normal operation and Trim modes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8mEW28ZAMU - Calibration modes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATCuv7Xz8Qw - Contrast and backlight adjustment

 

That's all very interesting but the OP's car is NOT going into limp mode or showing errors, so I can see no reason to suspect the OMP is the problem.

 

you can always pull it off, pull it apart, add more spacers to the factory ones
( a couple of washers at end of worm )
and therefore limit the maximum allowable range, and knock it back in oil output per load signal so to speak


this is what is supposed to happen, mazda numbers

OK -
firstly, how to fix rate the EOMP in desperation of at least having something going directly onto the apex seals where the lube is needed most


the armature, and its spiral worm shaft , fitted into the E-OMP stator case
( all the way home )




the E-OMP with cover removed


the armature core revolves forward and backwards
( clockwise and anti clockwise ) and the worm drives in or out
displacing the piston that is the plunger valve in the physical OMP
mazda sits a couple of washers on here to limit maximum stroke
they use shims under the feedback sender to effectively set minimum stroke
( so yes it can be made to pump more , and also sooner ETC )



its this plunger that displaces an internal shaft in the OMP
this internal shaft is notched
- plunging it up and down will alter the volume in the "notch"
exposed to the incoming oil stream
( a variable inlet so to speak )
once metered through the inlet notch, it passes to a pump arrangement
which has a check system and is turning at engine rpm from the dizzy drive burr- then off to the oil squirts !


-
rod home position is 13 mm
full stroke ( rod out furthest ) is 33 mm

simply unscrewing the worm, and placing it in upside down
makes 33mm stroke

removing 10 mm from it and placing it in upside down
will amount to mid stroke ( 23 mm )

leaving it in the short position , and slipping over a cut 23mm spacer will also do the trick

 

Leaking oil rings could cause the same symptoms.