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turboed n/a timing inquiries

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Old 11-28-05, 03:38 PM
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Arrow turboed n/a timing inquiries

Another thread lead into this and now i want some more specific info.

I am gonna be running my turboed n/a on the stock ecu with a safcii. Obviously i need to take car of timing. heres my options listed form easiest/cheapest to hardest/most expensive.

obviously the hardest/most expensive would also be the best/safest but i want to know the minimum i can get away with and not blow my motor.

1)manual timing retard, not changing

2) timing retard set to retard further according to rmp's

3) timing retard set to change according to psi of boost
Old 11-28-05, 03:54 PM
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I ran stock timing at 8-12 PSI. No issues.

You have no control of timing with the stock ECU other then to move the CAS back a few degrees.

If you want to control timing, you need a piggy back or you have to add retard boxes to the coils. A single channel for the leading, two for the trailing or a dual channel. At that point you've spent between $600 and $800 and you're well into standalone territory.
Old 11-28-05, 04:22 PM
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^ Lets not forget you ran a SAFC-II.

BklynRX7 - Your fuel mixture is most important in moderate levels. You need an upgraded pump and injectors. If you do not go with the appropriate ECU a fuel controller will be needed. If you are tuning yourself a wide band will also be needed.
Old 11-28-05, 04:31 PM
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im switching to a TII ecu rtek 1.7 it is very difficult to tune with just a safc.. im sure its not really difficult but i had very minor problems and just figured this way itll be easier for me.(especially when i dont have the knowledge or anyone to tune a standalone or the money) i also got a afm and boost pressure sensor.
problems i had with stock n/a ecu:
shifting to 2nd around 45 it would get very rich and just spit and sputter. my wideband would read in the low 9's.
this is with a moderate tune of a safcII at low 11's above 2,200 rpms.
Old 11-28-05, 04:37 PM
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do they make piggybacks for ign. timing?
Old 11-28-05, 05:26 PM
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Arrow

ok let me clarify. Im tryign to decide which retard box to buy for my msd igntion. They make models that are fixed adjustable, adjustable over the rmp range, and adjustaable according to p[si of boost.

Obviously some are cheaper thna others, which can i get away with using for say 10-12 psi.
Old 11-28-05, 07:05 PM
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According to Aaron Cake, you don't need a retard box at all. He said he ran 8-12 psi with no problems. Which is your option #1. Manually retartd timing IF needed using the CAS.

Last edited by HHTurboVert; 11-28-05 at 07:07 PM.
Old 11-28-05, 07:06 PM
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if anything you can retard the timing a few degrees as extra "safty margin"
Old 11-28-05, 08:27 PM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by HHTurboVert
According to Aaron Cake, you don't need a retard box at all. He said he ran 8-12 psi with no problems. Which is your option #1. Manually retartd timing IF needed using the CAS.
Well in that case ill still go with the msd controller just so i know to what exact degree its being retarded too.

Thanks for all the help.
Old 11-29-05, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by iceblue
^ Lets not forget you ran a SAFC-II.
I ran a regular S-AFC. Not that it matters either, since the S-AFC/II cannot adjust timing.

ok let me clarify. Im tryign to decide which retard box to buy for my msd igntion. They make models that are fixed adjustable, adjustable over the rmp range, and adjustaable according to p[si of boost.
IF YOU WANT TO USE CDI BOXES TO RETARD IGNITION, you will need:

-Ignition box for leading
-retard box and sensor

-Ignition box for trailing 1
-connection to leading retard if allowed
-Ignition box for trailing 2
-connection to retard signal
OR
-Dual channel trailing box
-connection to retard signal

In other words, a LOT OF MONEY that in my opinion is WASTED when less will be spent on a standalone.
Old 11-29-05, 04:28 PM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
I ran a regular S-AFC. Not that it matters either, since the S-AFC/II cannot adjust timing.



IF YOU WANT TO USE CDI BOXES TO RETARD IGNITION, you will need:

-Ignition box for leading
-retard box and sensor

-Ignition box for trailing 1
-connection to leading retard if allowed
-Ignition box for trailing 2
-connection to retard signal
OR
-Dual channel trailing box
-connection to retard signal

In other words, a LOT OF MONEY that in my opinion is WASTED when less will be spent on a standalone.
So I would be causing a serious problem if I only retards the leading correct? I guess ill just do it manually through the CAS?
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