Hey, the motor in my 87 TII broke so I bought a 13B from the junkyard for $100 and am swaping everything over. I noticed the oil inlet pipe on the front housing of the 13B block is blocked off by what looks like a piece of brass? Is there some special way to remove this? Does anyone know what Im trying to describe? If you do, i'd really appreciate the help.
Thanks
-Ryan-

 

Which oil pipe? The one from the oil cooler? Or the oil feed to the turbo? Or the oil drain from the turbo?

If you're talking about putting the TII stuff on the NA block...TII engines are quite different from NA engines. Short answer is that it won't fit.

 

oil feed to turbo, the place where the oil feed line is supposed to screw into the block on the n/a block is blocked off with a piece of brass (i think). Is there a special way or something to remove the plug so i can thread the line into the n/a block? If its prethreaded under the brass piece i dont want to damage the threads...

 

Does anyone know what im talking about??
The place where the oil line going to the turbo comes out of the block (on top of the front housing). There is a banjo bolt that goes into the block there. On a non-turbo block, that spot where the banjo blolt screws into is blocked off. The piece used to block the spot off looks like brass. Are there already threads the brass is blocking off? If so, is there a special way or tool used to remove the brass piece without damaging the threads?? If there are no threads there, I need to know so I can go ahead and drill it out and tap it.

Thanks
-Ryan-

 

the oil line is a very small thing compared to all the other stuff that is different between the N/A and turbo engines....

 

I know there are differences...please just answer the question!

Thanks
-Ryan-

 

Err... the place where the turbo motors get their oil from for the turbo is completly blocked off on N/A engines... Not just a brass fitting blocking it off, it is cast iron (read: very hard to drill and tap through)

 

yeah, there is no opening there on the non-turbo motor. Also, a non-turbo motor has intake ports while the turbo only has 4. you can't use the turbo intake manifold on a non turbo engine. The block you have is the wrong block. You can't put the turbo external components on the non turbo block and have it run worth a damn. Thats what everyone is trying to tell you.

 

Well you CAN have it run better and smoother and more power.. BUT you'll need to spend a fair bit more money, IMHO...
And it definatly isn't a bolt on proposition At all..

Not even close...

 

Cast iron? I dont know about that...I'll try drilling it tomarrow and find out and let you know.

I was going to remove the 5th and 6th port sleaves and use the turbo manifold. Are you trying to tell me that it won't run with out them because I think it will...? I thought the turbo manifold would fit with a little grinding. I'll double the fit of the turbo manifold on the n/a block tomarrow (its turkey day today!)

 

Not true at all. I just don't think the original poster knows what he's in for...

 

It's cast iron, and 'work' is a very subjective term to use in this field... I'm sure it will 'work'...
But wihout chaning many other things you will end up with a total **** fit soon enough..

Thought about where your gonna put the oil drain yet either?

 

Yea, its getting plumbed into the oil pan...

 

It was a brass plug mazda used to block the oil outlet on the N/A motor. It came out nicely with an "easy-out" (revered threaded bit). It was a lost cause, however, because the outer diameter of the brass plug removed matches the outside diameter of the banjo bolt I was going to put there. In other words, the hole left by removing the plug is too large and leaves no extra metal to tap for threads for the banjo bolt. Now I have to plug the hole back up. Tapping into the oil flow from this location can be done, but you have to use a larger then stock banjo bolt and line fitting and you have to cut threads into the cast iron. There are other, easier ways which make this a WASTE OF TIME, DO NOT ATTEMPT!

I am now looking at diverting oil from the oil pressure sending unit to the turbo. Has anyone done this? I know Aaron Cake said this will take oil away from the motor. I've seen a diagram of the oil flow throughout the motor and I understand what he is saying and why but has anyone had success with this? I would think the motor would be capable of maintaining significant oil pressure to function without problems.

To save some time and work, I am not going to weld a bung into the oil pan. Instead I am planning on swapping the front covers on the 13b and 13bt. The turbo motor has a built in oil return fitting I plan on using. It dumps the oil back into the pan. I dont see any reason why this wont work.

The turbo flywheel is bigger so I am swapping them as well. I read something about swapping a counterweight with the flywheel. Is this the counterweight behind the main pully and front cover?

This is turning out to be more work then i thought but I dont have the money for a rebuild right now. That turbo spacer looks likes the hardest part right now. I can do it but its still a pain.

Thanks for your time and help.
-Ryan-

 

Hrmmmm Brass plug you say?
werid.. my 85 GSL-SE motor and my series 4 "85" N/A motor both don't have brass there and its just cast Iron? What year motor was this one?

Crazy crack head mazda engineers playing funny games with us again me thinks...



I took the oil for my turbo from the oil cooler top line (oil feed to the cooler?) I just drilled and tapped a thread into the head of the stock banjo bolt, works perfect no leaks or anything.

 

to use the turbo flywheel. you need a turbo tranny, turbo clutch, turbo clutch slave cylider,and turbo starter,

and the turbo tranny won't bolt to the N/A driveshaft or rear end...

 

The motor was a 13B from an 88 SE. Very good idea, modifing the stock banjo bolt. I'll do that.

 

You must not have read my post. I have an 87 TII. That means I have all of that. I am putting a N/A S4 motor in. The flywheels (the one on my busted motor and the N/A one) need to be swapped. Isn't there a counteweight that has to be switch on the motor as well? The one behing the pully and front cover? Im talking about the one above the oil pump gear on the eccentric shaft on the front of the motor...

 

never mind, searched and found what i was looking for