notice my other post.

 

can anyone confirm the S5 TPS adjusting screw thread pitch?

 

check your trailing coil pack to see if you are getting spark.

 

the screw that adjusts the TPS goes into a metal bracket that is on the throttle body shaft, i don't believe there is a lock nut. that bolt/screw is probaby M6x1.0.

 

i know its way finer thread pitch than 1.0 just by looking at it ( no metric thread pitch guage )

 

the diameter of the screw with a caliper is 4.95 mm
that would be a metric size five correct?

 

Didn't I give you the measurements from an S4 TB before? IIRC, the adjuster screw was M5 x 0.5. I used a feeler for it. And as mentioned, there is no locknut (at least not on any TB I've seen). The spring tension keeps the screw from moving.

 

ya but doesnt the spring tension keep the screw from turning in but not from backing out?
and i havent been able to find a m5 x .5 nut, so im thinking maybe thats wrong
and mazda parts fiches show a screw, spring, and nut

 

it's m5 x 1.5. 1.0 is 1 thread per 1 mm. .5 would be 1 thread per two mm.. 1.5... is 1.5 threads per MM!
i've looked at it. reminds me of the threads of the pressure plate to flywheel bolts.

 

above you say 1.0 is 1 thread per mm, and then 1.5 threads per mm


sorry your wrong, from eying the screw the distance between threads is like a half mm or less.

http://www.zytrax.com/tech/mech/threads.htm

 

i dont drive my car right now cause i want it to run correctly before i do
i result to chevrolegs and the bus

but RotaryRocket88, so your FC doesnt have the nut im talking about, and the screw doesnt wiggle (with the vibration of the engine) out of correct adjustment?

 

S4 NA TB. M5 x 0.5. The piece on the bottom isn't really a lock nut. It's completely round, and looks more like a boss welded onto the metal. I'm not sure it comes off. It may be different on an S5 TB; I don't have one to take a picture.

 

thanx RR88
but if there is somthing to hold the screw from backing out, im still convinced i need a locknut (prefferably a ny-lock)
cause mine has nothing. and with the slight vibration from the engine its probably gonna back out a little over time (i would think 50 miles or so).
the spring puts tension on the bolt threads and that tension is against the threads of the threaded hole its in, but i would think its not enough tension to hold it in the exact same place. correct me if my logic is wrong.

 

ok now swaped out the AFM and readjusted the TPS and it still bounces.
this is driving me absolutely crazy!!!
(and theres no check engine or codes)

 

Did you jump the green connected by the battery when you adjusted you tps

 

i heard it really doesnt make a difference so i did not.
but i will do it again and jump that test connector.

 

jumped the connector and re adjusted the TPS, it still bounces.
i noticed when i turn the AC on it stops? ive cleaned out and tested the BAC.

could the leaqding coil not being in the car cause the idle to bounce?

 

Wait, what? You're running off the trailing coil alone?

 

ya, why is that bad?
and it passed emmisions like that.

 

The question you should be asking is why would it be good?

The leading coil does most of the work. If you run off the trailing coil only, you're running with severely retarded timing since it fires later (under most conditions). That will cost you power.

These are S4 TII timing maps, but you can see that split is as much as 15 degrees: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/stock-s4-turbo-timing-maps-warning-those-stock-ecu-943159/.

 

the leading coil gone is just temporary, but could the leaqding coil not being in the car cause the idle to bounce?

 

I can't imagine it would idle well. My suggestion would be to replace your missing coil, and then go from there if the problem persists.

 

im currently negotiating with a member and also ebay, i just dont wanna pay 400+ for a new one from mazda