Turbo II questions
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Raliegh NC
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Turbo II questions
hey im a newbie to the rotary tuning, so i was wondering what is your opipion on a turbo II. I want to use it to drift in so im going to push it hard, so i was wondering about reliabillty. I've heard stories about blowing seals and destroying rotarys, and also major oil leak problems. i heard that replacing the seals off the bat and regualar oil changes will keep it running like new. But i know nothing about rotarys so i wouldn't be able to do the work myself, has anyone heard of Fast and Clean its a RX-7 only place in NC, but i heard some negative things about it. i want a turbo II but i don't want to worry about blowing my rotary, any suggestions?
#3
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
They seem to think drifting is cool...seen to may rice movies.
If you don't want to worry about blowing it, don't modify it. Stock, they're pretty reliable, but if you start modifying the car without knowing what you're doing, you'll blow it.
Also, try SEARCHING.
If you don't want to worry about blowing it, don't modify it. Stock, they're pretty reliable, but if you start modifying the car without knowing what you're doing, you'll blow it.
Also, try SEARCHING.
#5
knowledge junkie
Build it well. That means FULL engine mangement system like a haltech, larger injectors, etc..
Make sure your air/fuel ratios stay perfect, add proper blowoff & popoff valves, etc..
If you build it well (like rx-7.com's monster dragster), you can push a 350+ HP very easily.
Rotaries last as long as most other high performance engines
Make sure your air/fuel ratios stay perfect, add proper blowoff & popoff valves, etc..
If you build it well (like rx-7.com's monster dragster), you can push a 350+ HP very easily.
Rotaries last as long as most other high performance engines
#6
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can make some decent changes without worring too much about reliabilty. Many say that a downpipe improves reliability by helping the heat get out. (DP replaces front cat, right beside turbo)
Realize that any turbo motor's performance will benifit substantially from decreasing the back pressure. In this respect turboed engines are more dangerous when modding, because the turbo is pushing more air in. Turbocharged engines will not last as long as typical n/a engines. In this respect the TII is not unreliable. With the TII in particular, the key is to be certain that the engine is receiving enough fuel. As such, once you go beyond the fuel cut at 8.6psi you need to add more fuel.
Realize that any turbo motor's performance will benifit substantially from decreasing the back pressure. In this respect turboed engines are more dangerous when modding, because the turbo is pushing more air in. Turbocharged engines will not last as long as typical n/a engines. In this respect the TII is not unreliable. With the TII in particular, the key is to be certain that the engine is receiving enough fuel. As such, once you go beyond the fuel cut at 8.6psi you need to add more fuel.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Mount Juliet, TN
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You want to drift?
Get a 4.30 diff out of a GTUs.
Get a down pipe, a Turbo inlet duct, some sort of cone filter, and fab up a nice intercooler... or buy one if your loaded. Then all you need is a bigger fuel pump, and an FCD. Boost should hover around 10-11psi.... and you should have fairly decent EGTs if you have a nice IC and a walrbo fuel pump. You could take the expensive route(the right way) and have a 400hp motor, or you could do what I suggested and have around 250hp, which is a happy medium if drifting is what you plan on doing. The way I suggested is pretty reliable if your fuel system is 100%. I would maybe suggest getting some bigger secondaries, though it would probably cause a little hesitation in the low end. But if you are driting you shouldn't ever see below 3K rpm. I would just say go out and get a haltech, but not everyone has 2K dollars to spend on the haltech unit+dyno time.
Get a 4.30 diff out of a GTUs.
Get a down pipe, a Turbo inlet duct, some sort of cone filter, and fab up a nice intercooler... or buy one if your loaded. Then all you need is a bigger fuel pump, and an FCD. Boost should hover around 10-11psi.... and you should have fairly decent EGTs if you have a nice IC and a walrbo fuel pump. You could take the expensive route(the right way) and have a 400hp motor, or you could do what I suggested and have around 250hp, which is a happy medium if drifting is what you plan on doing. The way I suggested is pretty reliable if your fuel system is 100%. I would maybe suggest getting some bigger secondaries, though it would probably cause a little hesitation in the low end. But if you are driting you shouldn't ever see below 3K rpm. I would just say go out and get a haltech, but not everyone has 2K dollars to spend on the haltech unit+dyno time.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
Re: Turbo II questions
I didn't realize that there were any drifting racing events in the US which are open to private individuals. Would you car to fill me in, as it sounds kinda fun?
... and I've heard stories about throwing rods and destroying valves, and also major oil leak problems in piston engines. I guess the best thing to do is live in a giant bubble and never buy any type of car in the first place.
Never heard of them. Try here for all your NC questions:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/forumd...?s=&forumid=35
Racing requires time and money. The more racing you do, the more things break and wear out, the more time and money you spend fixing them. This goes for rotary engines, piston engines, jet engines, brakes, tires, transmissions, and maybe even the little statue of Jesus on the dashboard. If you can't afford to race, then don't do it, especially if you only have one car and no truck and trailer to pull it with. I realize that this may sound like a slam, but it's very important for you and others to understand, and just may be the best advice you will get in this thread.
... or longer.
http://www.monito.com/wankel/lemans.html
Originally posted by fourstringfish
I've heard stories about blowing seals and destroying rotarys, and also major oil leak problems.
I've heard stories about blowing seals and destroying rotarys, and also major oil leak problems.
Originally posted by fourstringfish
has anyone heard of Fast and Clean its a RX-7 only place in NC, but i heard some negative things about it.
has anyone heard of Fast and Clean its a RX-7 only place in NC, but i heard some negative things about it.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/forumd...?s=&forumid=35
Originally posted by fourstringfish
i want a turbo II but i don't want to worry about blowing my rotary, any suggestions?
i want a turbo II but i don't want to worry about blowing my rotary, any suggestions?
Originally posted by vaughnc
Rotaries last as long as most other high performance engines
Rotaries last as long as most other high performance engines
http://www.monito.com/wankel/lemans.html
#9
1JZ powered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Re: Turbo II questions
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
Racing requires time and money. The more racing you do, the more things break and wear out, the more time and money you spend fixing them. This goes for rotary engines, piston engines, jet engines, brakes, tires, transmissions, and maybe even the little statue of Jesus on the dashboard. If you can't afford to race, then don't do it, especially if you only have one car and no truck and trailer to pull it with. I realize that this may sound like a slam, butit's very important for you and others to understand, and just may be the best advice you will get in this thread.
Racing requires time and money. The more racing you do, the more things break and wear out, the more time and money you spend fixing them. This goes for rotary engines, piston engines, jet engines, brakes, tires, transmissions, and maybe even the little statue of Jesus on the dashboard. If you can't afford to race, then don't do it, especially if you only have one car and no truck and trailer to pull it with. I realize that this may sound like a slam, butit's very important for you and others to understand, and just may be the best advice you will get in this thread.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post