I used to be under the impression that Tokico had shocks compatible with our AAS. I was wrong. The only thing I've come up with so far is shocks from a company called KYB. I'm told that they're good shocks, but I've never heard of them b4, at least not here.

Any 411 on them? And any recommendations for someone who wants to keep his AAS?

And I'm not planning on spending a fortune on them - future starving student here.

 

nothing will work with the *** execpt mazda shocks. and I think they are thosands $$

the kyb agx's are manualy adj like the tockicos. and are the best shock for the money. $350 for 4 from www.k2rd.com

 

I have the AGX and am quite pleased with them.

 

That's AAS, not ***. *** is for sinfestboy, as in, "What do you call a guy who can't break OUT OF a house?"

And I've priced the Mazda shocks - close to a grand (Cdn) when all is said and done.

Manually adjustable meaning I have to get out and flip them over? (so to speak)

 

The AAS is a novelty, but it can't touch a good set of aftermarket (not even non-adjustables) dampers.&nbsp My recommendation, if you need to replace yours, get rid of the AAS.&nbsp If you insist on keeping the AAS, there is not aftermarket replacement, and you only option is Mazda OEM.


-Ted

 

LOL. excuse my typo

 

Jeez, I'm suprised no one mentioned TEIN.

TEIN makes something similar to AAS, but of far higher quality, which gives you better handling, and the ability to adjust the dampening level in the car.

This will not work with your current Mazda AAS suspension, well I don't think.

Read more here
http://www.tein.com/edfc.html

 

I have KYB AGX's and they are sweet! The only thing is if you are lowering your car more the 1.5" you will void there warranty!
But I would recommend them to anyone!

 

KYB's are awesome ... BUT KONI's > KYB

 

Well, I'm not spending a grand on shocks. That'd kill me right now. Aftermarket it is.

I was hoping to keep the AAS with the notion that I'd be able to offer a smoother ride when I have passengers, and then 'buckle down' when it's time to jump on the gas.

And when I first got my 7 I was certain that I noticed a difference when I switched between normal ride and sport. For one, my steering tightened up - there was less play when I selected sport. I'm certain of it. Maybe not a total novelty, then?

I say, 'When I first got my 7,' cuz after I xferred everything over to my parts car, the power steering computer hasn't been happy. I have the 411 to diagnose the prob (Thank you, RX7Integra!) but not the time or the voltmeter. The change in the play in the steering no longer happens when I select sport.

 

It's a typical misconception.&nbsp Springs are designed to control the compression (bump); shocks are designed to control the oscillation and rebound.&nbsp You can run stiffer dampers but run softer springs for a good ride compromise.&nbsp If you haven't riden in an FC with the Eibach Pro-Kit progressive springs, I'd highly recommend them.&nbsp Due to the progressive nature of the spring rates, the Eibach springs are very forgiving during normal driving, but firm up as you push the vehicle.&nbsp Best of both worlds...


-Ted

 

Holy misconceptions Batman, err Ted. Shocks are dampners that act upon the compression AND rebound of the suspension. The compression is usually around 1/2 of the rebound dampening in a performance unit. One way adjustable shocks adjust compression and rebound together at a factory set level, two way adjustable shocks allow for adjusting compression and rebound seperately and three way adjustable shock allow adjustment of compression, dampening and progressive rate of dampening all seperately.
-edit- I think 3 ways typically adjust compression, compression progressive rate and rebound and four ways adjust compression, compression progressive rate, rebound and rebound progressive rate.

The stock AAS did change compression w/ rebound. Why else would the computer firm the rear shocks on acceleration and the front under braking in sport mode?

When I push down on my JIC shocks w/ no spring I feel resistance. When I raise it a click I feel more resistance. You know I played w/ this just to see how much difference there was from 1 to 17 and wow, this set-up could punish your *** on the highest setting!

 

Oh, and I have been thinking of putting some stepper motors on the shocks so I don't have to get out/crawl under the car to adjust. I probably won't go so far as programming them to auto adjust in certain circumstances as I don't like the less predictable nature of things like DTSS, progressive springs, turbo lag and such. I have a hard time keeping it on the road w/ out adjusting to fluctuating variables

 

That is true.

But...

You're totally tunnel-visoned with the esoterics.&nbsp Primary design factor of dampers for the majority of vehicles is rebound.&nbsp Compression is not something that is R&D'd into most damper design short of very expensive competition units; like you said, single adjustment dampers adjust both compression and rebound at the same time.&nbsp Springs do the majority of the compression factor - think about it.

Don't take this the wrong way - my roommate is an ME that worked on damper design for Ground Control/Advance Design for a couple of years.&nbsp We had thorough discussions about this all the time.&nbsp It was he that told me all of this, and if you sit down and think about it, he's right.


-Ted

 

Compression and Rebound shock are only found on High end motorcycles....like mine....heeee.....

Get the KYB AGX's from K2RD.....they are the cheapest.

Also, take the word of the Eibachs...they are good springs for autox'g and aggressive street riding. If it is TOO harsh, try a softer spring...like those cheepy purple spings.......ummm....Intrax.

 

Personally...out of all the springs I have had...I still like the RB springs for all around driving.....

Maybe it is just me....I liked the ride (w/ AGX's)

 

yes they are a good systen but you are also talking 1600- 2000 for the set too.