TPS adjustment help RX7 fc Turbo
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
TPS adjustment help RX7 fc Turbo
I am trying to test TPS sensor as I am having problem with limp mode/ car cutting out under load.
I've removed the intercooler and not sure how to proceed. I seem to have two TPS sensors and all the guides seem to relate to three wires (I think I have six wires).
Any advise how to probe/adjust this?
I've removed the intercooler and not sure how to proceed. I seem to have two TPS sensors and all the guides seem to relate to three wires (I think I have six wires).
Any advise how to probe/adjust this?
#2
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use the test connector, its there for a reason
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Turbonut (11-22-21)
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
If you've got a DMM and thin probes, than you can back probe the black/red and green/red wires and adjust the TPS until you get about 1V at idle. These are the probes that I used: https://www.ebay.com/p/2223450984. They're very thin and easily slide between the wire and rubber seal without causing any damage. The car needs to be fully warmed up and at normal operating temperature to get an accurate reading.
Alternatively, there's a green 3-pin test connector (2-pins on one side, 1-pin on other side) by the air cleaner box. You'll need two 12V LEDs (https://www.radioshack.com/products/...m-holder-green) and three 1/4" spade connectors. The 12V LEDs have built in resistors. On the connector, top 1-pin is ground the other side by side 2-pins are positive. The LEDs are reverse biased, so the two red (positive) leads connect to the 1-pin ground and the two black (negative) leads each connect to other side by side two pins. You adjust the TPS until only one LED is lit. If you cannot adjust the TPS until only one LED is lit, than that indicates that your TPS sensor is bad.
Try this link for LEDs: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/d...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Alternatively, there's a green 3-pin test connector (2-pins on one side, 1-pin on other side) by the air cleaner box. You'll need two 12V LEDs (https://www.radioshack.com/products/...m-holder-green) and three 1/4" spade connectors. The 12V LEDs have built in resistors. On the connector, top 1-pin is ground the other side by side 2-pins are positive. The LEDs are reverse biased, so the two red (positive) leads connect to the 1-pin ground and the two black (negative) leads each connect to other side by side two pins. You adjust the TPS until only one LED is lit. If you cannot adjust the TPS until only one LED is lit, than that indicates that your TPS sensor is bad.
Try this link for LEDs: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/d...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Last edited by Hot_Dog; 11-22-21 at 09:56 AM.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
If you've got a DMM and thin probes, than you can back probe the black/red and green/red wires and adjust the TPS until you get about 1V at idle. These are the probes that I used: https://www.ebay.com/p/2223450984. They're very thin and easily slide between the wire and rubber seal without causing any damage. The car needs to be fully warmed up and at normal operating temperature to get an accurate reading.
Alternatively, there's a green 3-pin test connector (2-pins on one side, 1-pin on other side) by the air cleaner box. You'll need two 12V LEDs (https://www.radioshack.com/products/...m-holder-green) and three 1/4" spade connectors. The 12V LEDs have built in resistors. On the connector, top 1-pin is ground the other side by side 2-pins are positive. The LEDs are reverse biased, so the two red (positive) leads connect to the 1-pin ground and the two black (negative) leads each connect to other side by side two pins. You adjust the TPS until only one LED is lit. If you cannot adjust the TPS until only one LED is lit, than that indicates that your TPS sensor is bad.
Try this link for LEDs: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/d...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Alternatively, there's a green 3-pin test connector (2-pins on one side, 1-pin on other side) by the air cleaner box. You'll need two 12V LEDs (https://www.radioshack.com/products/...m-holder-green) and three 1/4" spade connectors. The 12V LEDs have built in resistors. On the connector, top 1-pin is ground the other side by side 2-pins are positive. The LEDs are reverse biased, so the two red (positive) leads connect to the 1-pin ground and the two black (negative) leads each connect to other side by side two pins. You adjust the TPS until only one LED is lit. If you cannot adjust the TPS until only one LED is lit, than that indicates that your TPS sensor is bad.
Try this link for LEDs: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/d...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thanks for the reply. You are right, I might need thinner probes as the gap is very small. I will see if I can fit though with the stock brobes. Am I right in putting one probe on the black/red end and the other end on ground (or negative battery end)? Then the same for green/red and ground?
Also how do I go about adjusting the TPS exactly? Sorry it might be trivial but want to be clear.
Cheers
#5
Rabbit hole specialist
iTrader: (11)
Hi,
Thanks for the reply. You are right, I might need thinner probes as the gap is very small. I will see if I can fit though with the stock brobes. Am I right in putting one probe on the black/red end and the other end on ground (or negative battery end)? Then the same for green/red and ground?
Also how do I go about adjusting the TPS exactly? Sorry it might be trivial but want to be clear.
Cheers
Thanks for the reply. You are right, I might need thinner probes as the gap is very small. I will see if I can fit though with the stock brobes. Am I right in putting one probe on the black/red end and the other end on ground (or negative battery end)? Then the same for green/red and ground?
Also how do I go about adjusting the TPS exactly? Sorry it might be trivial but want to be clear.
Cheers
The spring in the left of what I've circled is being acted upon by a screw. That screw is the adjustment point.
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
Hi,
Thanks for the reply. You are right, I might need thinner probes as the gap is very small. I will see if I can fit though with the stock brobes. Am I right in putting one probe on the black/red end and the other end on ground (or negative battery end)? Then the same for green/red and ground?
Also how do I go about adjusting the TPS exactly? Sorry it might be trivial but want to be clear.
Cheers
Thanks for the reply. You are right, I might need thinner probes as the gap is very small. I will see if I can fit though with the stock brobes. Am I right in putting one probe on the black/red end and the other end on ground (or negative battery end)? Then the same for green/red and ground?
Also how do I go about adjusting the TPS exactly? Sorry it might be trivial but want to be clear.
Cheers
Connect the probes to the two wires on side of TPS connector. One wire is black/red the other wire green/red. That's for one sensor. You cannot set the other sensor. If you check for error codes, they'll indicated whether either of the two TPS sensors are bad.
Last edited by Hot_Dog; 11-22-21 at 10:40 AM.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, the screw with the spring is the adjustment. On further thought, if you go with the 12V LEDs, check the instructions that come with them as they might already be wired for reverse bias. Years ago, I bought 12V LEDs from Radio Shack, wired them up as I indicated and they worked fine.
Connect the probes to the two wires on side of TPS connector. One wire is black/red the other wire green/red. That's for one sensor. You cannot set the other sensor. If you check for error codes, they'll indicated whether either of the two TPS sensors are bad.
Connect the probes to the two wires on side of TPS connector. One wire is black/red the other wire green/red. That's for one sensor. You cannot set the other sensor. If you check for error codes, they'll indicated whether either of the two TPS sensors are bad.
I am getting over 1.4 k ohms on rest. When pressing the adjustment screw it drops to 550 ohms.
When I try to adjust the screw I am getting no movement on the screw. I even jammed the other end with some pliers so there is no movement on the spring but not able to move the screw in any direction - I am suing large flat screwdriver for this and applying plenty of force. Should I use socket wrench for extra leverage or will I risk damaging the whole thing?
Image of the screw I am adjusting
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
I am using the volt meter method. Ideally thinner probes should be used, but the stock probes can be jammed in just about.
I am getting over 1.4 k ohms on rest. When pressing the adjustment screw it drops to 550 ohms.
When I try to adjust the screw I am getting no movement on the screw. I even jammed the other end with some pliers so there is no movement on the spring but not able to move the screw in any direction - I am suing large flat screwdriver for this and applying plenty of force. Should I use socket wrench for extra leverage or will I risk damaging the whole thing?
Image of the screw I am adjusting
I am getting over 1.4 k ohms on rest. When pressing the adjustment screw it drops to 550 ohms.
When I try to adjust the screw I am getting no movement on the screw. I even jammed the other end with some pliers so there is no movement on the spring but not able to move the screw in any direction - I am suing large flat screwdriver for this and applying plenty of force. Should I use socket wrench for extra leverage or will I risk damaging the whole thing?
Image of the screw I am adjusting
Last edited by Hot_Dog; 11-22-21 at 01:39 PM.
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voyageur (11-22-21)
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks, yes 8mm nut is also on the turbo. Loosening that allows for easy adjustment now.
I got my voltage down to 1 kohm but it keeps creeping up slowly. I've adjusted immediately after running the car up to temperature.
Is there an ideal or preferred adjustment value? Should I take it for a spin and adjust again. I know there is a range, but is there an ideal value? I am in the UK so quite cold in the winter now in case that makes a difference...
Many thanks for all the help by the way!
I got my voltage down to 1 kohm but it keeps creeping up slowly. I've adjusted immediately after running the car up to temperature.
Is there an ideal or preferred adjustment value? Should I take it for a spin and adjust again. I know there is a range, but is there an ideal value? I am in the UK so quite cold in the winter now in case that makes a difference...
Many thanks for all the help by the way!
#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Having learned the hard way, use the test connector. The value should be .8/1.2 to start, then fine tune using the connector. I use 2 multi-meters.
Car should be up to operating temp, but it can be done cold by keeping the throttle opened to drop the fast idle cam.
Car should be up to operating temp, but it can be done cold by keeping the throttle opened to drop the fast idle cam.
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Thanks, yes 8mm nut is also on the turbo. Loosening that allows for easy adjustment now.
I got my voltage down to 1 kohm but it keeps creeping up slowly. I've adjusted immediately after running the car up to temperature.
Is there an ideal or preferred adjustment value? Should I take it for a spin and adjust again. I know there is a range, but is there an ideal value? I am in the UK so quite cold in the winter now in case that makes a difference...
Many thanks for all the help by the way!
I got my voltage down to 1 kohm but it keeps creeping up slowly. I've adjusted immediately after running the car up to temperature.
Is there an ideal or preferred adjustment value? Should I take it for a spin and adjust again. I know there is a range, but is there an ideal value? I am in the UK so quite cold in the winter now in case that makes a difference...
Many thanks for all the help by the way!
Here's what you want to do: Insert the probes into the appropriate wires on the connector. Make sure the aren't near or touching any metal that would cause them to short out. Set the DMM to DC voltage such that it's able to display about 1 volt. Start and run the car until it reaches normal operating temperature. While the car is running, adjust the TPS screw until the voltage reads about 1 volt. Once adjusted, shut the car off and gently tighten the 8 mm nut.
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voyageur (11-24-21)
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
You wrote: "I got my voltage down to 1 kohm but it keeps creeping up slowly." One kilo ohm is resistance, not voltage.
Here's what you want to do: Insert the probes into the appropriate wires on the connector. Make sure the aren't near or touching any metal that would cause them to short out. Set the DMM to DC voltage such that it's able to display about 1 volt. Start and run the car until it reaches normal operating temperature. While the car is running, adjust the TPS screw until the voltage reads about 1 volt. Once adjusted, shut the car off and gently tighten the 8 mm nut.
Here's what you want to do: Insert the probes into the appropriate wires on the connector. Make sure the aren't near or touching any metal that would cause them to short out. Set the DMM to DC voltage such that it's able to display about 1 volt. Start and run the car until it reaches normal operating temperature. While the car is running, adjust the TPS screw until the voltage reads about 1 volt. Once adjusted, shut the car off and gently tighten the 8 mm nut.
Really appreciate all the tips from you and others! Now on to next issue...
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