TPS Adjusting for dummies.....
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Upside-umop Racing
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TPS Adjusting for dummies.....
Can someone do a write up on this? I searched and found two, but I couldn't really understand them. Hints my title. Someone help please. s5 TPS needs adjustment. It (supposedly) runs bad while driving around, but idles nicely. Would love some assistance.
#2
Tps adjustment will not fix the issue, if it idles poorly then an adjustment may clear it up.
This is about as simple as it gets
http://www.banzai-racing.com/TPS_adjustment.htm
This is about as simple as it gets
http://www.banzai-racing.com/TPS_adjustment.htm
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Thanks for the link Banzai.
I did some "seat of the pants" test and tuning with it today. I'll do the TPS light, but I think it needs a new TPS. This wouldn't be caused by bad compression in one rotor would it? With adjustemnts, I can get it to idle nicely and then throw Check engine light when not idling, or pulse high idle and then run nicely. I think it may just need a new TPS.....
Tex, thanks for the correction. And the previous owner said that. When I first saw under the hood, I noticed that the TPS wasn't bloted on and was hanging to the side of the motor and after reattaching it, it has been adjust and drive, but I can't get it right without the adjustment light. Isn't there a way to use an ohm meter to adjust it?
I did some "seat of the pants" test and tuning with it today. I'll do the TPS light, but I think it needs a new TPS. This wouldn't be caused by bad compression in one rotor would it? With adjustemnts, I can get it to idle nicely and then throw Check engine light when not idling, or pulse high idle and then run nicely. I think it may just need a new TPS.....
Tex, thanks for the correction. And the previous owner said that. When I first saw under the hood, I noticed that the TPS wasn't bloted on and was hanging to the side of the motor and after reattaching it, it has been adjust and drive, but I can't get it right without the adjustment light. Isn't there a way to use an ohm meter to adjust it?
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Or backprobe the wire at the ECU if you want. You can do that with the engine idling or just key on, unlike the LED adjustment.
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here it is. (S4)
Take volt meter and plug + into the REAR of green wire in the TPS connector and the - in the black wire in the same way. It should read 1k at idle, if not turn the screw to make it read 1k. then manipulate the throttle slowly to WOT and watch Resistance, it should SWEEP smoothly from 1K to ~6k. if there are any spots that read 0 in the sweep or the TPS completely out of spec (reads like 15k) then its bad. Done.
Feel free to correct me if im wrong.
Take volt meter and plug + into the REAR of green wire in the TPS connector and the - in the black wire in the same way. It should read 1k at idle, if not turn the screw to make it read 1k. then manipulate the throttle slowly to WOT and watch Resistance, it should SWEEP smoothly from 1K to ~6k. if there are any spots that read 0 in the sweep or the TPS completely out of spec (reads like 15k) then its bad. Done.
Feel free to correct me if im wrong.
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^1 I believe you don't want the TPS plugged in if adjusting using resistance.
I just use two LED lights with wires and male terminals...works like a charm and I have my hands free (the lights are mounted in a box with holes for the LED's) to mess with the throttle and adjusting screw.
I should mention, that if the car is not hot enough (or in my case) if the fast idle cam doesn't disengage, you won't get a proper adjustment because the throttle plates will still be open slightly.
I just use two LED lights with wires and male terminals...works like a charm and I have my hands free (the lights are mounted in a box with holes for the LED's) to mess with the throttle and adjusting screw.
I should mention, that if the car is not hot enough (or in my case) if the fast idle cam doesn't disengage, you won't get a proper adjustment because the throttle plates will still be open slightly.
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Get the engine HOT. Back probe the green/red (narrow band) wire of the TPS connector (harness side, not pigtail side of the plug). Adjust to one volt dc. Done.
Or backprobe the wire at the ECU if you want. You can do that with the engine idling or just key on, unlike the LED adjustment.
Or backprobe the wire at the ECU if you want. You can do that with the engine idling or just key on, unlike the LED adjustment.
The above is with all the connectors connected up. Checking for voltage not ohms in this case.
Like PFSantos said, the LEDS cost only about three bucks and you can use them for numerous other things. Like on a series four you can check for fault codes. Or rig it up so you can see if the ECU is going into closed loop while driving and other stuff in general.
When you get thru setting the TPS using the LED's, you'll find a tps output of.....one volt.
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