JK5S

iTrader: (2)

So why not just cap the injectors of on the ends?

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

Ive also noticed that I'm missing a vacuum switch, is that necessary for idle?

HAILERS2

Not unless it's a AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION car.

HAILERS2

The rotors on their intake stroke pull a vacuum on the ..................................nah..

READ the jpgs I posted a day or two ago. Notice the part where it addresses the atomization of the oil etc and why you have metered air going to the injector tops. That's post #37 and the second jpg attached there.

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I reviewed it, it makes more sense now.

I've made another video, I disconnected the BAC and there was no change in the idle.
As I left the BAC unplugged it was still continuing to go into loops, and then out of a sudden the loops sort of diminished. Now, inside the car recording the video, you can see the idle is remains at 1500 regardless. The problem I'm having is every time I apply the throttle in the video I floor the pedal to the floor and there is this huge lag where the engine slowly picks up the speed in order to rev high. The engine behaves like crap; it is not as responsive as before I serviced the intake manifold. It sounds like the fuel isn’t being delivered on time, or it isn’t in sync with the throttle plate. I adjusted the TPS sensor to read 10V at idle when the thermowax was fully expanded.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/UXR0-WPJzTA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Ok, did you:

1. fully warm up the car
2. ground the SINGLE green connector on the drivers side next to the battery
3. adjust the screw on TOP of the throttle body (flat head) and set idle to 750rpm?
4. adjust TPS to 1V (not 10v)

If you can't adjust idle to 750 after car is FULLY warmed up, you still have a vacuum leak or your throttle cable is too tight/throttle stop incorrectly set! You can't proceed without first fixing this. Go over the vacuum diagrams provided to you carefully, each and every line. If you are removing the rats nest, be specific as to what you removed and did remove.

satch

iTrader: (1)

How about a thirty second video of just good old fashion idling, free of engine reving.

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

I haven’t grounded the single green connector by the battery, that’s probably why I couldn’t get the TPS to read 1V. I did however warm up the car before I did the TPS adjustment, although my procedure is junk as it’s done with high idle. I checked and made sure that nothing is interfering with the throttle plates during idle. The only thing that is interfering is the thermowax as it is doing its own thing in closing the throttle plates which explains the TPS adjustment procedure requiring the engine to be fully warm. Hopefully the correct TPS adjustment will remove the lack of responsiveness at low RPM's

The engine doesn’t have EGR valve, Air pump valve, and butterfly actuators for 3&4 runners. Of course all these have been blocked off. The vacuum diagram is fine, except the dark green tube that comes down from the SIDE of the TB is not going to the inside of the manifold as shown in the picture, both ends are plugged off. Also, the very top nipple for the spider system is removed and the nipple has been blocked. And lastly, the bottom nipple on the purge control valve has broken off, and the corresponding green vacuum hose has been removed and the ends sealed off.

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

Sorry about the video, its ridiculous I know, doesn’t tell you much there besides the raspy engine response.
It idles at around 1500 rpm with occasional hesitation and looping. I will try post another one tomorrow.

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

Here is another video around the engine bay, I was unable to bring the idle down form 1500 rpm, but it appears to idle solid except when gas is added then it sort of wants to die unless its let go diligently. And where I place the camera near the exhaust manifold, does that sound like an exhaust leak?

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/mP6OhIr3L8Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

satch

iTrader: (1)

At the one minute mark what are you trying to measure with the multimeter?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Problem: the s4 initial set coupler is slightly different from the s5, on the s4, you LOOP the double green plug. On the s5, you ground the SINGLE green plug.

What were you measuring at the 1min mark? Should be 1.00V exactly.

Also, look through the S4 N/A Emissions section, the same page I took a screen of (4A-77), but the bottom of it. Test your VARIABLE RESISTOR, make sure its within spec.

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

I let the car warm up all the way, then grounded the green connector by the battery than used a multimeter to measure voltage across the 3 pin connector that you see. I could never get 1V, It keeps showing 10-12V at the sweet spot.

satch

iTrader: (1)

This is not how you set the TPS!!!!!!!!!!!!! I repeat, this is not how you set the TPS for all you are doing is measuring the battery voltage. Now the TPS has a plug to it. Locate the Green/Red wire and back stab it with the red meter lead and the black meter lead to a suitable ground such as the negative battery terminal or the alternator casing and with the engine fully warmed set to 1 volt.