Too much premix?
02-14-11, 03:18 PM
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Too much premix?
I recently have converted to my S4 to feed the 2-cycle engine oil into the engine.
Since I was skeptical that it was actually going to work I premixed 4 gallons of gas, the OMP turned out to be a success, its is working and feeding 2-cycle oil into the engine. My concern is now that both the OMP and Premix are feeding the engine should there be a problem with Idling?
Since I was skeptical that it was actually going to work I premixed 4 gallons of gas, the OMP turned out to be a success, its is working and feeding 2-cycle oil into the engine. My concern is now that both the OMP and Premix are feeding the engine should there be a problem with Idling?
02-14-11, 04:36 PM
#4
MECP Certified Installer
I agree with Rob if you are having an idle issue now. Go get some fresh gas to thin out the premix. Yes, too much oil can cause the car to run like doo-doo.
02-14-11, 04:52 PM
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i'm confused, yes you can have too much premix, a little too much and it'll be smokey, a lot too much and the premix won't burn it'll just stay liquid and fill the exhaust with goo
if you're asking if gas in the metering oil is a problem, i'm going to say maybe, the metering pump delivers something like 6cc a MINUTE, which is a teeny little amount
if you're asking if gas in the metering oil is a problem, i'm going to say maybe, the metering pump delivers something like 6cc a MINUTE, which is a teeny little amount
02-14-11, 07:28 PM
#7
Rotary Freak
No the premix plus oil from your new outfit should not cause any idle problems at all. Depending on how much oil is being injected by your new outfit that you didn't describe.
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02-14-11, 07:38 PM
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With the 4 gallons of gas I added 6.4 ounces of 2-cycle fluid (100:1). I didn't expect my OMP to be primed so soon that’s why I'm little concerned with having double the oil. I have a plate blocking off engine fluid and have a remote tank adding 2-cycle fluid. For now, I unhooked the little lever form the throttle so It won’t engage the OMP's cam to add more fluid with high rpm. I will have to add some more gas to even the ratio. For now I am struggling to keep the engine from dying after the motor has gone through the cold start, once the engine is warmed I have to hold gas to make it stay alive. It sounds fine all the way to 8K.
02-14-11, 07:46 PM
#9
Rotary Freak
Ok. Original omp being fed by a seperate source of oil and oil mixed with the gas in the tank. Answer: No that should not cause a idle problem of any kind at all.
02-14-11, 09:34 PM
#12
You should check for vacuum leaks as mentioned ^^^. Occasional puffs of smoke could be a number of things, especially since you have no cat. Excess gas (often blacker in color though), burnt oil (usually a FAINT blue tint), burnt coolant (unlikely by the sound of it), or even water vapor (water is a chemical result of burning hydrocarbons, this will be PURE white). You should be able to tell the difference by smelling the smoke, just don't stick your nose in the tailpipe then blame me when you're hospitalized.
Anyway, on the topic of vacuum leaks, it's SO easy to knock a vac line loose, or forget to reconnect one, or block unused nipples, have loose hose clamps, et cetera. You said you were working on your OMP system, what exactly did you do to it? It uses vacuum to draw the oil up the supply tubes...
Anyway, on the topic of vacuum leaks, it's SO easy to knock a vac line loose, or forget to reconnect one, or block unused nipples, have loose hose clamps, et cetera. You said you were working on your OMP system, what exactly did you do to it? It uses vacuum to draw the oil up the supply tubes...
02-14-11, 10:20 PM
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You should check for vacuum leaks as mentioned ^^^. Occasional puffs of smoke could be a number of things, especially since you have no cat. Excess gas (often blacker in color though), burnt oil (usually a FAINT blue tint), burnt coolant (unlikely by the sound of it), or even water vapor (water is a chemical result of burning hydrocarbons, this will be PURE white). You should be able to tell the difference by smelling the smoke, just don't stick your nose in the tailpipe then blame me when you're hospitalized.
Anyway, on the topic of vacuum leaks, it's SO easy to knock a vac line loose, or forget to reconnect one, or block unused nipples, have loose hose clamps, et cetera. You said you were working on your OMP system, what exactly did you do to it? It uses vacuum to draw the oil up the supply tubes...
Anyway, on the topic of vacuum leaks, it's SO easy to knock a vac line loose, or forget to reconnect one, or block unused nipples, have loose hose clamps, et cetera. You said you were working on your OMP system, what exactly did you do to it? It uses vacuum to draw the oil up the supply tubes...
I was able to get the car to idle for little bit and here is the video of its loopy idle.
02-14-11, 10:53 PM
#14
sure sounds like a vacuum leak. the smoke and the idle issues may be caused by different things, too. honestly though I wouldn't worry about the oil if you're not seeing smoke accumulate or billow. I premix and my car smokes just a little on startup, enough that if you're in the garage it will make your eyes burn some, and I'm sure it smokes a bit when I get on it hard.
also if you haven't do what was suggested by filling the rest of the tank, if the smoke backs off then you probably were indeed getting just a little too much two stroke in the motor.
also if you haven't do what was suggested by filling the rest of the tank, if the smoke backs off then you probably were indeed getting just a little too much two stroke in the motor.
02-15-11, 09:15 AM
#19
Rotary Freak
Did you route the lines to the spider for the oil injectors right? Those lines don't go to vacuum but to a source of air that is before the throttle plates.
It's a non turbo. So warm up the engine. Then pull the LARGE hose off the front of the throttle body. Feel the end of the HOSE for a feeling of vacuum. Should be there. Not the large nipple on the front of the throttle body, but the HOSE.
Also if you swap the two small hose that exist on the front of the throttle body........that creates a bad idle. I'm talking about the three metal nipples one above the other on the front of the throttle body. Only one is vacuum and that one goes to the solenoid rack on the left of the engine. Make sure you got the two small hose connected where they are supposed to go.
The small one that does NOT go to the solenoid rack......goes to the single nipple located b/t the two oil injectors on the intake manifold. Injector bleed air source.
It's a non turbo. So warm up the engine. Then pull the LARGE hose off the front of the throttle body. Feel the end of the HOSE for a feeling of vacuum. Should be there. Not the large nipple on the front of the throttle body, but the HOSE.
Also if you swap the two small hose that exist on the front of the throttle body........that creates a bad idle. I'm talking about the three metal nipples one above the other on the front of the throttle body. Only one is vacuum and that one goes to the solenoid rack on the left of the engine. Make sure you got the two small hose connected where they are supposed to go.
The small one that does NOT go to the solenoid rack......goes to the single nipple located b/t the two oil injectors on the intake manifold. Injector bleed air source.
02-15-11, 09:52 AM
#20
It's not really a question of the TPS going bad as it is more of a question of is the TPS set to 1 volt after the car has been "fully" warmed up. The Idle Adjust screw in addition to the Variable Resistor "might" need to be fidgeted with to rectify the idle bounce as well as a search for vacuum leaks would also be of value.
02-15-11, 03:28 PM
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02-15-11, 04:05 PM
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Man I wish I knew that before I assembled the manifold, I taught the nipples on the top were like bleeders of some sort. Where do they hook up, there should be 4 of them, where do all 4 go? Could this be why I have such a bad idle?
02-15-11, 04:10 PM
#24
MECP Certified Installer
I forgot off of the top of my head where the vacuum lines go specifically. HAILERS can help you with that though.