The radiator is in mint condition. and the car will go from a bit over the 1/3 mark to 2 mm under the 2/3rds mark. the driving conditiond are not varying greatly but...

I have the the RB turbo exhaust (full) new engine and the walbro fuel pump I biufgt isnt in and rewired yet, nor is my O2 sensor installed yet either.(i havent been getting on it since the new engine onlt has 350 miles on it thus far, -and- the car is hold the same temps as the last engine that blew at 82K miles)

question. at what point do I say "Too Hot) what can I do short of a 429 dollar fluidyne rad to keep it coler?


thanks guys

jared

 

Try some Redline Water Wetter.

 

I agree. This stuff works wonders for the F-Body. In theory, a piston engine would run hotter than a rotary due to the added friction of the rods etc. So if it keeps one of those things cool (F-Bodys plagued by overheating) I'm sure it'd be good for the RX-7, too.

This one guy with a Camaro doesn't even use coolant anymore, he just uses water wetter and water.

 

Have you been losing any coolant? Did you bleed the air out of the cooling system with the bleed screw on the radiator elbow?

 

Is your plastic undertray installed?

 

The undertray is installed and I took off the cap on the elbow (the tube up top that goes to the hose and has the cap on it ?) and topped it off and I am not losing any coolant. Can I add the waterwetter to the 50/50 or whats the most favorable ratio?

thanks guys


jared

 

Just dump a bottle of the stuff in. Or try Evan NPG+ coolant. Pricey, but according to banzaitoyota, it works.

 

There's a screw on the side of the elbow that bleeds the air out of the system. You need to take the screw out and fill the coolant until it comes out of there, then fill it the rest of the way. If you want to double check it, after you finish filling it, loosen the screw until coolant dribbles out the bottom, then tighten it and top off the coolant again.

 

I tell you what you really need to do......





Get a REAL temp gauge. Then find out what your temps are really at and go from there.

As for coolant, the BEST coolant is distilled water. No antifreeze, no nothing. Just straight distilled water. Just be sure to swap it out before it gets cold.

 

Ive seen right-ups on this. The slickest one involves tapping into the airpump bolts right (given you've removed it) and put the sending unit there. Do you actually tap in so far that it touches water or something. Or, does it just take a reading off the metal. Sorry I sound so dumb. what the best way to get the most accurate reading from the coolant.


jared

 

Um, just buy an aftermarket gauge and sender. Put the new sender into the locaton of the old sender. Easy as pie

 

where it is rico05, man your fast, dude. Your all over the place. thanks.

jared

nevermind. I found it.

 

water alone has a higher heat capacity so technically it cools better, but adding coolant or water wetter will increase the boiling point. if the water in your system boils, then the pressure will go up way too much for the overflow to handle and something sill have to give. usually a heater hose. i know because it happened to me. if your cooling system is perfect, then yes water itself is the best way to go, but obviously something isn't working right, so i would stick to something safer.

 

http://www.jaredcolletti.com/website...G_2502_JPG.htm


cool eh?