Timing issue
11-19-15, 01:07 PM
#102
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if we went backwards, which is sometimes better than overthinking things. you should be able to put the CAS in the factory spot, and set the haltech to 65/11 and have it be within a degree or two. since Mazda's stuff is all sloppy and adjustable, the margin of error is on that side.
secondly you should set the trigger thresholds to 2v, like in this thread https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-foru...tages-1089653/ it improves the signal to noise ratio.
secondly you should set the trigger thresholds to 2v, like in this thread https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-foru...tages-1089653/ it improves the signal to noise ratio.
11-19-15, 03:59 PM
#108
I did. Restabbed and set to 65 and 11. No dice. I swear my wiring had been verified 90 times. Should I try and change my cas wiring? I'm at a loss. It will idle but read on the opposite side of the pulley. Or should I flip the cas 180 degrees and try that.
Last edited by djSL; 11-19-15 at 04:01 PM.
11-19-15, 06:18 PM
#111
I have no idea what to do. The car won't fire anymore, just cranks and cranks. Bought a new battery, new plugs, it still won't fire. I don't really have anywhere to take the car. Goddamit.
Could I have flooded it?
Could I have flooded it?
Last edited by djSL; 11-19-15 at 06:37 PM.
11-19-15, 06:48 PM
#112
i have a feeling your injector lag is all fuggered up which would explain a few things you have said in this thread, but why with all the maps i cannot say unless these are some special or defective injectors. maybe one of your injectors is not getting fuel and the other is creating an overly rich condition in order to run the engine, again, hard to guess without seeing the car or a video of something.
disable all fuel and try running it on starting fluid with an assistant and see if it is a bit more responsive.
you're fighting a problem that you need to find with a comb, as i said a really long time ago i dont think it is your timing that is the root issue, but it is a symptom.
what's your fuel pressure? try crimping the return line a little bit at a time? you may have a fuel volume issue, don't let the rich numbers fool you!
play with the CAS, don't worry about timing it for now, just need to focus on what the engine wants in order to run for now.
check the plugs for equal fuel wetness, indicating what i said earlier about one rotor being rich and the other dry. check your intake for restrictions, you know, like a rag in an intake port.
exhaust, see above for intake. is there any massive open ports on one side of the intake runners where the engine is drawing unmetered air?
does your map reading fluctuate as it should? does your RPM signal have any erratic spikes?
blah blah blah, you get the idea of what i have to deal with.
you gotta dig some more.
disable all fuel and try running it on starting fluid with an assistant and see if it is a bit more responsive.
you're fighting a problem that you need to find with a comb, as i said a really long time ago i dont think it is your timing that is the root issue, but it is a symptom.
what's your fuel pressure? try crimping the return line a little bit at a time? you may have a fuel volume issue, don't let the rich numbers fool you!
play with the CAS, don't worry about timing it for now, just need to focus on what the engine wants in order to run for now.
check the plugs for equal fuel wetness, indicating what i said earlier about one rotor being rich and the other dry. check your intake for restrictions, you know, like a rag in an intake port.
exhaust, see above for intake. is there any massive open ports on one side of the intake runners where the engine is drawing unmetered air?
does your map reading fluctuate as it should? does your RPM signal have any erratic spikes?
blah blah blah, you get the idea of what i have to deal with.
you gotta dig some more.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-19-15 at 06:58 PM.
11-19-15, 06:59 PM
#113
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we know the CAS wires are correct, but are the outputs to the coils correct?
11-19-15, 07:01 PM
#114
timing isn't rocket science, the coils are firing(or the timing light wouldn't be responsive) and unless the mark is bouncing around like a rabbit then i wouldn't suspect it to be an ignition issue at all.
the only possibility i would consider with the timing is if he is running direct fire, but somehow both rotors are still firing off the same trigger. disconnect both leading plugs and try again, and vice versa with the trailings.
the only possibility i would consider with the timing is if he is running direct fire, but somehow both rotors are still firing off the same trigger. disconnect both leading plugs and try again, and vice versa with the trailings.
11-19-15, 07:17 PM
#115
Thanks for the suggestions.
-Fuel pressure when idling was 40 psi.
-Map sensor is fluctuating normally
-No erratic RPM spikes
-plugs are equal wetness
-Trailing plugs were quite a bit dirtier than leading
-Nothing stuck in any ports
I called Haltech earlier and found out that I may have corrupted all the maps I had by not resetting the ecu every time I load a map or change a setting. I didn't know this was required to save the changes made to the ECU.
I will try the starting fluid tonight. I just don't understand, it was running today. Only issue was figuring out the timing. Now I'm back to square one and NO maps will start the car.
-Fuel pressure when idling was 40 psi.
-Map sensor is fluctuating normally
-No erratic RPM spikes
-plugs are equal wetness
-Trailing plugs were quite a bit dirtier than leading
-Nothing stuck in any ports
I called Haltech earlier and found out that I may have corrupted all the maps I had by not resetting the ecu every time I load a map or change a setting. I didn't know this was required to save the changes made to the ECU.
I will try the starting fluid tonight. I just don't understand, it was running today. Only issue was figuring out the timing. Now I'm back to square one and NO maps will start the car.
11-19-15, 07:24 PM
#116
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Thanks for the suggestions.
-Fuel pressure when idling was 40 psi.
-Map sensor is fluctuating normally
-No erratic RPM spikes
-plugs are equal wetness
-Trailing plugs were quite a bit dirtier than leading
-Nothing stuck in any ports
I called Haltech earlier and found out that I may have corrupted all the maps I had by not resetting the ecu every time I load a map or change a setting. I didn't know this was required to save the changes made to the ECU.
I will try the starting fluid tonight. I just don't understand, it was running today. Only issue was figuring out the timing. Now I'm back to square one and NO maps will start the car.
-Fuel pressure when idling was 40 psi.
-Map sensor is fluctuating normally
-No erratic RPM spikes
-plugs are equal wetness
-Trailing plugs were quite a bit dirtier than leading
-Nothing stuck in any ports
I called Haltech earlier and found out that I may have corrupted all the maps I had by not resetting the ecu every time I load a map or change a setting. I didn't know this was required to save the changes made to the ECU.
I will try the starting fluid tonight. I just don't understand, it was running today. Only issue was figuring out the timing. Now I'm back to square one and NO maps will start the car.
11-19-15, 07:27 PM
#118
All the maps looked the same when I reloaded them. I've started cycling the key when loading maps. It seems like my car doesn't like the factory cas alignment. Every time I align it to that, it doesn't start.
Do you mean the voltage the coils are getting? I've visually tested for spark. I need to run and get a new battery for my multimeter. Based off the fact the car was idling, something in the maps has to be off correct?
Do you mean the voltage the coils are getting? I've visually tested for spark. I need to run and get a new battery for my multimeter. Based off the fact the car was idling, something in the maps has to be off correct?
Last edited by djSL; 11-19-15 at 07:30 PM.
11-19-15, 07:29 PM
#119
well then its trying to tell you something. the engine should start the easiest in the correct position, not fight you about it.
try starting it on leading only coils, then trailing only.
i mean it's not a new ECU, but do you know for a fact the engine it came from ran properly?
try starting it on leading only coils, then trailing only.
i mean it's not a new ECU, but do you know for a fact the engine it came from ran properly?
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-19-15 at 07:32 PM.
11-19-15, 08:15 PM
#124
I'm not ashamed to admit that I could use a professionals help. I contacted a different shop but I'm not sure they will work on it if it's not running. That and my recent experience left a bad taste in my mouth for tuners in the area. I'm amazed that this area which has as a pretty large rotary scene has hardly any tuners.