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They sound like they are responsible for the starting issue. I'm assuming that 6-7 ms during cranking is extremely overkill. My posted fuel maps indicate it shouldn't be pushing this much fuel during cranking. Once I figure this out, I think the car should hold idle. Then everything is easy peasy after
I'm wondering if the post start map is enabled. Based off the map I provided on page 3, its providing a 6% increase in fuel at 0 seconds after start.
They sound like they are responsible for the starting issue. I'm assuming that 6-7 ms during cranking is extremely overkill. My posted fuel maps indicate it shouldn't be pushing this much fuel during cranking. Once I figure this out, I think the car should hold idle. Then everything is easy peasy after
I'm wondering if the post start map is enabled. Based off the map I provided on page 3, its providing a 6% increase in fuel at 0 seconds after start.
Disable the injectors and try to start the car with starter fluid. If that works then you know fuel is likely your problem.
They sound like they are responsible for the starting issue. I'm assuming that 6-7 ms during cranking is extremely overkill. My posted fuel maps indicate it shouldn't be pushing this much fuel during cranking. Once I figure this out, I think the car should hold idle. Then everything is easy peasy after
I'm wondering if the post start map is enabled. Based off the map I provided on page 3, its providing a 6% increase in fuel at 0 seconds after start.
you probably will want to use the post start map, when you restart a hot engine it wants more fuel, however for now you may want to just turn it off, and make life simpler. or set it to not turn on until the engine has reached operating temp.
there is a table in the S4 training manual that explains the factory post start scheme, Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
I will give that a shot. I've read the manual and chapter 5 as well. I think the source of the car not starting is the ludicrous injector times while cranking. If the car idles at approx 1.5 ms with ID1000's, cranking should not be at 6 or 7 ms right?
I'm going to verify if the post start fuel correction map is enabled as well. If it is, I'm thinking the 6.5% adjustment at 0 seconds is the reason the car immediately dies. Once the car is idling, I'm fine tuning the timing within the e6x. If it's not enabled, I'm not sure why it would inject so much fuel.
My main fuel map has the injection time for 0 load at ~4 ms. However, my battery correction map is set at 1.50 ms at 12 volts and increases to 1.75 ms at 10 volts. Overall, I just need to find out what exact setting is causing it to be so rich as the main fuel map doesn’t appear to be responsible for this.
Also, my fuel priming map is set to ~63 ms according to the picture on page 1.
it might, i dunno. i just tune the hot idle to where it idles the best, and then you can do the primer map until it starts the best, and then the coolant correction map until it runs best while its warming up. the post start is like this too.
The car is consistently starting and idling for around 7 seconds. After that, it dies. I can rev it and it kind of keep it alive a little longer. I kept adding fuel and it seemed to like that but my injector times were around 4 or 5ms at 900 rpm. Seems weird. I'm charging the battery now for a second attempt.
Swapped maps to an older one and it fired up immediately and idled for almost a minute. Not enough time to warm up but hopefully I can get it to hold and get the timing set.
The car is holding idle! Now I'm back to the timing issue.
Cas position with pulley lined up and car idling around 800-1000 rpm,
Now back to the timing issue. With the car idling and the timing light on leading one, the timing mark is reading at about 4 o clock when facing the motor and the ignition locked at -5. Based off my limited knowledge, this means the timing is very retarded? The ignition settings are:
Trigger angle: 70
Tooth offset: 10
The car also will backfire a little bit on throttle but not too bad. Attached is a datalog and map.
From memory, advancing manually didn't do much. Pretty sure AFR at idle was in 10's and blipping the throttle caused slight backfires. I was more concerned with checking the timing than my afr once the car idled. I will double check all this in a few hours as its a little too early to wake up the neighbors
from memory tooth offset makes large timing changes, trigger angle makes smaller timing changes. trigger angle is what i would use when timing cars if i did not want to disturb the CAS.
just take notes, any changes you make that have a negative affect or cause the car to not start again so that you won't have to guess which changes caused the issue.
Swapped maps to an older one and it fired up immediately and idled for almost a minute. Not enough time to warm up but hopefully I can get it to hold and get the timing set.
Hey good thing you thought of that...
Originally Posted by djSL
I'll give that a shot and see what happens
Like RotaryEvo said, the tooth offset is coarse adjustment, while the trigger angle is fine adjustment.
Its pretty simple. Connect to the ECU with your laptop under the hood. Put the CAS back to center. Use the timing light and make adjustments on the software until your mark lines up. Trigger angle should be enough to line you up from where youre at. If you max out, put it back to 11 and move up or down a tooth.
Lol. Thanks for the suggestion. I tried 4 different maps I was given and one worked. Hopefully all will work out with the timing today. I shall report back. What are the maximum and minimum trigger angle values. Whatever stops adjusting the timing marks?
Lol. Thanks for the suggestion. I tried 4 different maps I was given and one worked. Hopefully all will work out with the timing today. I shall report back. What are the maximum and minimum trigger angle values. Whatever stops adjusting the timing marks?
the timing can only be advanced to the trigger angle (it needs to see a tooth before it can calculate timing). Mazda uses 48 as a minimum, max is probably where it reads the next tooth, not sure what that is, i wouldn't go past 70-75.
So the car is holding idle around 1200 rpm with an AFR of 10.5 to 11.3. Settings are at 75 and 11. THe link below is a video of the closest I could get the timing. For some reason, it wouldn't get spot on.
Edit: jesus, I can't attach links no matter what I do.
So the car is holding idle around 1200 rpm with an AFR of 10.5 to 11.3. Settings are at 75 and 11. THe link below is a video of the closest I could get the timing. For some reason, it wouldn't get spot on.
See above post.
I cant see the Mark. Use the CAS aduustment to get it dead on.
attached video. This is with the CAS all the way advanced and the settings as mentioned. I'm letting the battery charge back up before I give it another go.
attached video. This is with the CAS all the way advanced and the settings as mentioned. I'm letting the battery charge back up before I give it another go.
So adjust the angle... Thas why i said to center the CAS before you start adjusting is via the software.
I started with the cas in the center. The timing seemed to stick around 4 or 5 o'clock despite adjusting it in the software. I'll give it another go here in a few
11-18-15, 01:01 PM
