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could very well be the other way around and the engine isn't getting enough fuel due to the mapping, which would exacerbate the issue in colder climate.
you'll need to save then play with the maps to at least get it running again first.
I guess that's certainly possible. Weird, when the car ran 3 days ago, the afr was so far into the low 10's that it could rev but not without some struggling. The maps that got the car running have been saved so I can tinker with them. My only concern is screwing something up as it ran before with the same configuration but a different and unknown cas position. I going to try and align the cas a couple more times tonight and try to get it running again.
Based off the maps provided, what do you recommend to set the timing and settings to in order to get it to run with the factor cas alignment?
this was kind of my idea, although i didn't spell it out. i'd get it running at the timing it ran at before, and then dial the fuel in a little bit. once its stable, then you can start to take timing away slowly and that way avoid some big change that leaves it dead.
so idle timing should be at the stock marks, which are -5btdc L and -20btdc T, just because its easy to set. best idle occurs between there and +5 btdc L and -10 btdc T (same split). cranking timing should be +5 btdc L, cranking rpm is anything under 380rpm in an FC, the FD is 499. (these numbers are in the manuals, although not all in one place). there is a graph of cranking fuel too, but i'm not sure the factory ecu works like the haltech, i just add priming fuel until it starts the best at whatever temp (you could spend a whole day here). and then you can set the coolant temp fuel map once its running, this one is quicker.
one trick we used to do is to run a remote starter, disable fuel, and then you can set the timing before you really even try to start it.
not sure what 1000cc injectors should idle at, the 550's idle around 2.2-2.5ms, that would put the 1000's around 1.5 i think? i'd try 1.8 to start with.
manual idle control is fine, i'd start a little high, and work your way down.
I've tried getting the car running with the settings that had the car running. I'm going to try and reset the cas in a few different positions tomorrow.
Couldn't I just disable the injectors and have someone check the timing while I crank it? Same thing right?
My fuel map currently has the injectors at 1.8 ms when load psi is hits -11.58
I would like to tune in Alpha-N instead of load sensing but was advised against in due to some possible bug in the e6x
I've tried getting the car running with the settings that had the car running. I'm going to try and reset the cas in a few different positions tomorrow.
Couldn't I just disable the injectors and have someone check the timing while I crank it? Same thing right?
My fuel map currently has the injectors at 1.8 ms when load psi is hits -11.58
I would like to tune in Alpha-N instead of load sensing but was advised against in due to some possible bug in the e6x
i'd use a remote starter, then you can crank and do the timing light! but yeah you could have someone else do it too.
i think we used alpha N with the e6x back in the day? map works though, so just pick one and start tuning
I think I may have flooded the car during this process. I pulled the egi fuse and unflooded it. My garage reeked of gas. So I guess we'll try this again tonight.
I think I may have flooded the car during this process. I pulled the egi fuse and unflooded it. My garage reeked of gas. So I guess we'll try this again tonight.
does the EGI fuse even do anything? if you wire up the ECU like haltch wants, you're not using the EGI fuse anymore.
top tip; you can disable fuel in the software, no need to get up and open the hood. being flooded might actually be ok here, as you can disable fuel and crank it, and it should eventually start
I will pull them again tonight. Last time I pulled them, trailing was wet and lead was dry for some reason. This may be due to my battery voltage being low after cranking for awhile. Apparently, the e6x acts funny when the voltage drops? I'm going to re-verify spark tonight.
I will check both fuel and spark again in an hour. My car came with high impedance injectors from the factory so I bought high impedance ID1000's. Car was running until I fiddled with the CAS. Apparently, this made the car hate me.
I will check both fuel and spark again in an hour. My car came with high impedance injectors from the factory so I bought high impedance ID1000's. Car was running until I fiddled with the CAS. Apparently, this made the car hate me.
dumb question; the ecu does show rpm when you're cranking, oui? if it doesn't then its not getting a CAS signal, and it will be a paper weight until it does.
my E11 used to turn off around 10v, or less, so if your battery is a little low, the ecu might shut off. the newer ones are better about this.
Ecu is reading rpm. Datalogs confirm this. Just pulled leading and trailing plugs and verified I'm getting good visible spark to both. Strong wooshes out the plug holes too.
I guess I'm afraid of fiddling with the offset and angle for fear of blowing stuff up.
With the cas in this position and a trigger angle of 65 and offset of 11, the car stumbled and fired for a second at least.
Should I adjust these values up or down?
I tried 65 and 5 with no luck.
I think my battery is on the way out, it can't handle continuous cranking and voltage drops pretty quickly. I don't want to buy a new battery just to drain it from all this cranking. Hehe
This was done on purpose as the factory alignment wasn't working at all. When the car was base tuned, I was under the assumption the timing was set correctly. However, I believe the map was tuned to whatever timing it was at as the I can't get the car to turn over with the correct position.
With the cas like this and settings of 65 and 11, the car at least stumbled and tried to start for a second.
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
and your CAS is 1 tooth advanced
the reluctor should be pointing almost directly at the pickups.
Air gaps? Are you referring to the space between the sensors and poles?
I will adjust the cas again tonight. I could try a base map, however when I had a basemap installed the car violently shook and backfired to where I needed to shut it off. I'm almost debating contacting Haltech for support. I just don't want to ask Claudio for assistance again as he spent 4 hours total remote tuning my car to get it running. He may be a little peeved that I messed with something and need his help to get it running again.
It's just extremely frustrating that the car was running with these exact settings. Then I dicked with the cas and it longer runs.
well something is apparently not right, beit the timing marks on your pulley, a wiring issue or a setting we cannot see. what ever happened with the tuning at pineapple? i can no longer see the feedback section to tell what happened with it while it was there.
perhaps its time to just do a compression test to rule out the engine.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-17-15 at 03:09 PM.
11-14-15, 06:55 PM
