The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Ok.
I narrowed it down for all the problems on my car are timing related.

I put a gun on it tonight and got it.
With the light held on the identifying metal coming out the front plate- I got this.



The green and grey are someone elses marks. Obviously in the wrong place.

Soooo my timing is off. Right?


From what I understand from all the reading and threads.

I alight the green mark on the pully to the metal stick out from the front plate. (Im using these marks for simplicity- or is this wrong?? Should I use new marks??_

Then I take out the CAS- and then place it back in based on the stock mazda postitions (Ive seen hitmans site)-

Will this fix my timing?

Or am I doing something wrong.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

gnome311

From what I understand you have two marks on the side of the rear pulley next to the engine, and the marks should be line up like I have Illustrated. Orange being your leading mark, and yellow being your trailing mark. But my timing is off too right now. So don't take my word for it. :o)

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

From what I understand the yellow and orange are where the marks "should be"

Sooo Im going to try moving the marks to the right spots and re seating the cas.

gnome311

That's what I did, but my car is still missing and hard to start. Is it possible to have it 180 out of cycle?

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

and your cas is set correctly?

gnome311

I think so, but I couldn't find much info on it.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Read the part about CAS and timing.

Dont use the "hitman having no idea what he is doing"-
use the mazda one.

http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm

gnome311

Thanks, I will check that out.

gnome311

Well that looks pretty much like what I did myself. But mine still seems like it's running odd, that's why I asked if it's poissible to be 180 out of phase or something.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Im not really sure myself .
It seems phesable.

stacher

I don't know if you can be 180 off, however I experinced that once I aligned the mark of the "crank angle sensor" with the "gear" marking, and tried inserting the CAS back in, the mark would move making my timing off. So what I did is, once I have the marks aligned, I marked the the tooth that was aligned with the fireing sensor inside the CAS. This way I always had a visual reference that kept the bottom marks aligned when insering the CAS.
After you do this check the timing with a timing gun. Connecting the timing light to the L1 (on the coil), the first mark (normally yellow but in your drawing green) should align with the metal stick in the front cover.
Connecting the timing light to the T1, the second mark should be aligned with the stick.

Hope this helps

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Ok...
Im kinda lost.

First thing is I cant NOT get my idle down below 1k no matter what I try. So setting the timing is kinda hard.

Other thing is- I dont not understand what is off here.
The gouges in the back pully match the green and grey marks up front.

When I turn the pully to the marker on the front of the housing- the cas ligns up how it should- YET when I put a timing light on there- the marks are more then an 1.25 inches to the left of where the marker on the front housing is.

Are my marks wrong? Could someone have put the pully on wrong? I dont think its ever been off.....

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Im thinking my coil isnt firing when it should.

Because my marks and the cas line up-

Other then the CAS- what tells the computer to fire the injectors?

I have a extra coil on its way. Could a bad one cause delay?

stacher

Ok, I follow you.

Not idleling.......check your throtle cable to make sure it is relax

The Pully..........It only goes on one way. (at least on my S5)

Timing light.......Use one that you can connect to the battery.
Make sure you are connecting to the correct spark plug wire

If you have a Service Manual, refer to it.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Re stabed the cas- lined up the marks-
And its GOLDEN.
Runs great- pulls hard.

Two things left.

Leaking injectors.
Fuel cutoff switch .

stacher

Good!!!

If you have fuel leaking out of the injectors....check tour O-rings. There could be one that is pinched.

If the injectors themself are stuck open and leaking your car will flood. Need to have the injectors serviced or get another one.

I don't have a fuel cut off (S5).....so don't know there.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Well I let my friend drive it, and we stoped, it wont start again- and bam.
We floor the pedel- crank it- and it sarts!

But this is a s4?? huh I swear only s5's had this.

Well im wiring in the switch now.

gnome311

I know this may sound stupid, but L1 is the bottom rear plug right.

If so, I got L1 mark to line up using the timing light, but T1 wouldn't line up.
And my car is missing badly. I can't figure it out.

And I have an 88na, and I had to install the fuel cutoof switch.

WAYNE88N/A

L1 should be your bottom forward plug, Gnome, not rear...However, since both leadings fire simultaneously, it shouldn't matter if you have the timing light on the L2, I should think...Do you still have your other thread going? I've been away for a while...

gnome311

Yeah, still going, but not getting much responce. Go there, maybe you can help me some.

gnome311

I am flickted.