Time for a rebuild, engine parts help.
10-21-13, 11:41 AM
#27
Every once in a while I have seen the need to drill out( not on a mill, just a drill press) just 1 hole on the S4 rotor housings, normally this isn't a problem.
10-21-13, 01:44 PM
#30
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10-24-13, 12:44 AM
#32
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Okay, back on the turbo aspect because I've been looking through the FS threads. If a .60 a/r is going to choke at about 6500rpm what about a .84 a/r?
Specifically this 60-1 turbo:
.70 compressor side
.84 hot side fully divided
P trim wheel
I know you said 1.12 a/r, but those surprisingly are hard to find used.
Specifically this 60-1 turbo:
.70 compressor side
.84 hot side fully divided
P trim wheel
I know you said 1.12 a/r, but those surprisingly are hard to find used.
10-24-13, 11:27 AM
#33
That is a good deal, and from a good seller. If you are going to run an open wastegate, and a 3.5" or bigger exhaust system the .84 will be fine below 18psi on that turbo. Above 18psi, and past 6500rpms the .84 will start to hold it back.
10-25-13, 12:01 AM
#34
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Damn, 3.5" is huge! That's bigger than RB's REV TII system. I don't really plan on 18psi, unless it's needed for my whp goals but I'd think not after reading a lot of threads on here and other places.
I'm looking for a nice, torquey feel, something that comes on quick and gets me moving, hence the high comp for when it's off boost, and if that sets an arbitrary limit to my rpm, as long as it's not too low and 6.5k isn't really I'd think, I think I can live with that. But, here I go assuming again, I'm guessing porting would also be a factor in that limit, correct? Larger port/breathing more = lower rpm before it starts choking, I'm guessing? I was reading up on Pineapple, I think, and they say if you keep a smaller exhaust port with a larger intake it gives a flatter response, just at the cost of lower peak, which again would be fine. I'm just looking for a nice dd that I can possibly start going to my local track with on the Friday night run-what-you-brought races.
I'm looking for a nice, torquey feel, something that comes on quick and gets me moving, hence the high comp for when it's off boost, and if that sets an arbitrary limit to my rpm, as long as it's not too low and 6.5k isn't really I'd think, I think I can live with that. But, here I go assuming again, I'm guessing porting would also be a factor in that limit, correct? Larger port/breathing more = lower rpm before it starts choking, I'm guessing? I was reading up on Pineapple, I think, and they say if you keep a smaller exhaust port with a larger intake it gives a flatter response, just at the cost of lower peak, which again would be fine. I'm just looking for a nice dd that I can possibly start going to my local track with on the Friday night run-what-you-brought races.
10-25-13, 01:53 AM
#35
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For what it's worth, that turbo is the one I'm selling. I have yet to put it on a dyno, but with my 3" do to 2.5" y, it simply keeps pulling to redline for me. This is with a mild street port on an RE. This isn't to say that Elliott is wrong by any means. I'm just giving my personal impression. I love the way this turbo comes online. I'm only selling so I can turn the boost up even further.
10-25-13, 02:08 AM
#36
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I'm only looking to buy to enter into the turbo world. I guess it's a win-win lol. Though, I'm going with 9.7 rotors, don't know what you're running, so it'll be interesting.
04-28-14, 01:34 PM
#38
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Okay, back from the dead, I just came across a Holset from a friend's Dodge, he upgraded so I got it for practically free, and was wondering if it would work.
RE, I know you said a T3 might be a little limiting with a small A/R but it's a 21cm^2 hotside which is just under 1.15 if my research is correct, only found info on a 22cm^2 which is 1.15 and 18cm^2 which is 1.00. Just wondering if that would work? I am willing to run a big wg or even a pair if needed, I just think for a free turbo this would be great.
I've read a lot of FDs use smaller Holsets, like the 18cm^2 ones, and do just fine even on 1/2 bridges.
RE, I know you said a T3 might be a little limiting with a small A/R but it's a 21cm^2 hotside which is just under 1.15 if my research is correct, only found info on a 22cm^2 which is 1.15 and 18cm^2 which is 1.00. Just wondering if that would work? I am willing to run a big wg or even a pair if needed, I just think for a free turbo this would be great.
I've read a lot of FDs use smaller Holsets, like the 18cm^2 ones, and do just fine even on 1/2 bridges.
04-29-14, 12:11 AM
#39
i generally recommend studding for anything over 350whp on the 86-91 engines, an older engine(not recently rebuilt) may hold up to 500whp but it is only a matter of time before it loses grip and breaks. granted most people rarely get into the 400+ figures, so often times they rarely see the block's deficiencies. on the odd occasion you come across a thick cast S5 turbo rear plate it should be fine for 500whp, but most S5 turbo engines do NOT have the thick cast iron and for some reason i keep seeing the mentality that if it is S5 turbo and a rear iron that it immediately is the better version.
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04-29-14, 10:01 AM
#40
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