2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Time for a rebuild, engine parts help.

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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 11:31 AM
  #26  
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the center can be ported to suit, they're already very close to TII port size but the S5 is preferrable since it has no EGR ports which disrupt airflow.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
The studs stick out too far to use a stock flywheel. No problem for you with an auto rear counterweight and an aftermarket flywheel.
Our stud kits work with the OEM flywheels, and they don't require any machining. I do believe I spoke with the mentioned owner, and it sounds like the casting on his S4 front iron has a slight variance. He should use a bottom end tap on it, you can usually get 3+ more threads in his situation. I have personally used our stud kit on a lot of engines, and have sold hundreds of our kits without any problems. I don't have any S4 OEM flywheels to double check, but if I do find a problem I will shorten the threads a few mm.
Every once in a while I have seen the need to drill out( not on a mill, just a drill press) just 1 hole on the S4 rotor housings, normally this isn't a problem.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 12:23 PM
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^That's good to know.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 12:58 PM
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He says the irons are JDM, what kind of differences does that mean?
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 01:44 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by 88_N/A_GXL
He says the irons are JDM, what kind of differences does that mean?
none, the S4 US center housing is the oddball one, as it has the EGR passage
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 01:45 PM
  #31  
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it also means it has a higher possibility of having the upgraded rear iron, which seems to have been an afterthought for the US market.
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 12:44 AM
  #32  
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Okay, back on the turbo aspect because I've been looking through the FS threads. If a .60 a/r is going to choke at about 6500rpm what about a .84 a/r?

Specifically this 60-1 turbo:
.70 compressor side
.84 hot side fully divided
P trim wheel

I know you said 1.12 a/r, but those surprisingly are hard to find used.
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 11:27 AM
  #33  
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That is a good deal, and from a good seller. If you are going to run an open wastegate, and a 3.5" or bigger exhaust system the .84 will be fine below 18psi on that turbo. Above 18psi, and past 6500rpms the .84 will start to hold it back.
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 12:01 AM
  #34  
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Damn, 3.5" is huge! That's bigger than RB's REV TII system. I don't really plan on 18psi, unless it's needed for my whp goals but I'd think not after reading a lot of threads on here and other places.

I'm looking for a nice, torquey feel, something that comes on quick and gets me moving, hence the high comp for when it's off boost, and if that sets an arbitrary limit to my rpm, as long as it's not too low and 6.5k isn't really I'd think, I think I can live with that. But, here I go assuming again, I'm guessing porting would also be a factor in that limit, correct? Larger port/breathing more = lower rpm before it starts choking, I'm guessing? I was reading up on Pineapple, I think, and they say if you keep a smaller exhaust port with a larger intake it gives a flatter response, just at the cost of lower peak, which again would be fine. I'm just looking for a nice dd that I can possibly start going to my local track with on the Friday night run-what-you-brought races.
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 01:53 AM
  #35  
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For what it's worth, that turbo is the one I'm selling. I have yet to put it on a dyno, but with my 3" do to 2.5" y, it simply keeps pulling to redline for me. This is with a mild street port on an RE. This isn't to say that Elliott is wrong by any means. I'm just giving my personal impression. I love the way this turbo comes online. I'm only selling so I can turn the boost up even further.
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 02:08 AM
  #36  
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I'm only looking to buy to enter into the turbo world. I guess it's a win-win lol. Though, I'm going with 9.7 rotors, don't know what you're running, so it'll be interesting.
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Old Oct 25, 2013 | 02:37 AM
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9.0 in my setup.
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Old Apr 28, 2014 | 01:34 PM
  #38  
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Okay, back from the dead, I just came across a Holset from a friend's Dodge, he upgraded so I got it for practically free, and was wondering if it would work.

RE, I know you said a T3 might be a little limiting with a small A/R but it's a 21cm^2 hotside which is just under 1.15 if my research is correct, only found info on a 22cm^2 which is 1.15 and 18cm^2 which is 1.00. Just wondering if that would work? I am willing to run a big wg or even a pair if needed, I just think for a free turbo this would be great.

I've read a lot of FDs use smaller Holsets, like the 18cm^2 ones, and do just fine even on 1/2 bridges.
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 12:11 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
i generally recommend studding for anything over 350whp on the 86-91 engines, an older engine(not recently rebuilt) may hold up to 500whp but it is only a matter of time before it loses grip and breaks. granted most people rarely get into the 400+ figures, so often times they rarely see the block's deficiencies. on the odd occasion you come across a thick cast S5 turbo rear plate it should be fine for 500whp, but most S5 turbo engines do NOT have the thick cast iron and for some reason i keep seeing the mentality that if it is S5 turbo and a rear iron that it immediately is the better version.
.
How do you tell if the s5 t2 rear iron is the thicker casting vs thinner casting?
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 10:01 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by GrossPolluter
How do you tell if the s5 t2 rear iron is the thicker casting vs thinner casting?
Rotary Resurrection, rear iron pictures
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 10:05 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by eage8
Ahh, thanks eage8! Time to dig through my parts now
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