OK I will be getting a TII real soon here. I want the corksport 3" DP and MP and a catback(maybe N1). I want to go with the APEX'i cone and a custom intake. Now what about fuel/boost? I mean I don't want to piggyback it. Will a FCD work for just these mods or no? I want to be completely safe. I don't wanna go buy a S-AFC and then go buy a boost controller and all that. If I am going to do that I might as well get a haltech right away. What do you guys think? Thanks alot.

 

Stick a fuel pump and S-AFC on it and call it good. You may want some 720 secondaries also.

 

To be completely honest, when I used my turbonetics VVC, full exhaust, intake, fmic, fuel pump, and S-AFC, my car ran GREAT!

I don't think there's a need for a Haltec until you start going towards the big single(t-04E and above sizes).

Stock TII injectors can take 1.0 kilos of boost from the stock turbine and you should be as fast as a stock FD.

 

Don't forget early and late model TIIs are different when modding w/ open intake/exhaust. Early models have a little wastegate that gets over run easily and ECUs are set up for low boost only from the factory and late models have a wastegate that works well and electronically raise the boost from the factory.

 

Ok well its going to be an 87 I believe. I want full exhaust and intake, what else will I need to run this safely? Just and S-afc? Thing is the S-AFC is like 1/3 or 1/4 of the price of the haltech. I definitely plan to upgrade my turbo within a year or so and just figured I'd get my EMS out of the way if I need to. But I would just like to run my exhaust/intake setup for a while. Thanks alot.

 

::bump::

 

to be completely safe on an 87 TII

-Ported wastegate
-720cc Secondaries
-S-AFC
-FCD
-Walbro 255lph
-Boost Gauge
-AF Gauge
-EGT gauge
-Manual Boost controller

This will give you control over your car and allow you to see what's happening with you engine so you KNOW before you put it in danger. If you're looking for a cheaper TEMPORARY set up I would go with the fuel pump and the gauges. Just watch out for those 15psi spikes on cold nights thats how I toasted my engine

 

See I am not neccesarily going for the cheaper route though that would be good too. I am just wondering what I need to run with a full 3"exhaust and intake. My question now is should I even get a haltech or should I just go with fuel controller and boost controller? I mean I am just a regular guy that likes cars, not any type of mechanic or anything so tuning with a haltech would prolly be really hard for me.

 

you do not need a haltech unless you go with a larger turbo i.e. T-04E. The S-AFC should be sufficient. The boost controller will NOT reduce boost, it is actually to increase boost and I only mentioned it so that if you port your wastegate you can regain some lost boost, hopefully "unspikey" (yes I know thats not a word) boost. Manual Boost controllers are under $100 and work just fine, but if you like electronics and cool looking stuff to put on the inside of your car get an electronic one, hope I've been helpful

 

you helped me I have bought all that stuff for my 91' and waiting to get home to put it all on. my questions is do I need to port the wastegate on the 91'?

 

well except fo rthe boost controller adn EGT? and FCD? new to the club sorry

 

fcd= fuel controller?
egt= temp gauge?

 

FCD= Fuel Cut Defenser
EGT= Exhaust Gas Temp

The 89+ cars have a much better wastegate than the 87-88, so its not an absolute necessity to port yours. It would help stop boost creep though.

 

Ohh thanks man I have order a FCD from mazdatrix hasn't shown up yet. What is the importance of the EGT?

How much boost creep are we talking about? enough to kill my motor with what I have so far? Oh here is what I have:
Racing beat turbo back exhaust
Bonez intake
720cc secondaries
Apexi S-AFC
FCD =0)
A/F gauge
boost gauge
walbro fuel pump
underdrive pulley (main)
short throw shifter
think that is it can't remember guess I should make a list.

 

The stock turbos aren't the best in the world, they can't handle much over 15psi. I would recommend that you port your wastegate, you can never be too safe.

 

how do you go about that? Is it an easy DIY? once I do that I would need to get a bosst controller to jack the boost back up where it once was right? If you have a tread...

 

EGT will tell you if you're running lean or rich. The best place is to get it as close to the exhaust ports as possible. Problem with that is that the exhaust gases have to pass over the probe, then the turbine wheel. From previous experience(FDOkinawa and Dragon), that would not be a safe place to put it because the probe may break off. The safest best would be to place it as close to the turbine wheel as possible. This way, you get the most accurate reading and your readings will show a lot faster on your gauges.

Since you are getting an '87 TII, you can get the manifold/turbine off of an '89+ model and bolt it right up. I did this with mine and there was a considerable difference in performance i.e. no more boost spiking. I ran with that for a year plus the front mount, S-AFC, full exhaust, intakes no emissions...etc...and that car MOVED....

...till I lost my license This is part of the reason why I'm driving an FD now(had six months to save enough money to buy one)

 

That would be cutting it no?
I blew my 89 TII running like that.
Btw whats the 1 bowl of chicken soup for?

 

...well, that engine's STILL alive. I had it as 1 kilo, then the guy who bought my car had it on 1 kilo. That's been over a year now. When I bought the car, it had 130,000 kilometers on it. The S-AFC was tuned with about 9% at the top end( or something like that)

The chicken rice soup is an inside story between me, Dragon and FDOkinawa.

has something to do with a cool username or something like that.

 

Technically it doesn't.&nbsp It's possible to throw enough fuel in there to cause burning in the exhaust system that will still cause the EGT to skyrocket - it looks almost exactly identical to a lean condition.

Agreed - the close to the engine exhaust ports, the better the reading.&nbsp These EGT systems have a slight "dwell" time or lag from the time the exhaust gases hit the probe to the time the reading shows up on the meter.

Actually, the biggest problem I see with the 1989-1991 Kouki stock turbo exhaust manifold is the double passages - you can only keep track one ONCE side of the motor, short of buying TWO EGT gauges and probes for both front and rear rotors.&nbsp BIG BUCKS!&nbsp It's recommended to stuff the EGT probe in the downpipe for these set-ups to be able to monitor both rotors, although you get even more lag from the probe being that far away from the exhaust ports...

I do have a write-up to stuff a GReddy probe in the earlier 1986-1988 Zenki turbo exhaust manifold...
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/EGT/egt.html



-Ted

 

I was playing around with my BOV over last summer and noticed that I could adjust the BOV to not allow over 5psi of boost 6, 7 etc....now my real question is, is the reading of PSI in the vacuum system the same as the actual gain of air compression in the engine?

 

how much is this EGT we are talking about?

by the sounds of it, it looks to me like this thing does what a wideband O2 sensor would do. I mention this because I am thinking of getting that kit the are talking about on some other thread.

does having a blow-off valve on a stock turbo do you any good? Like does it prolong the life of the turbo?

Thanks guys you are the greatest I am gald you aren't giving me the old "look for it in the search" answer.

 

Well, I should have explained myself better. To find out if you're tuning's right on, you tune your fuel map rich. Then do a run or two to see where the exhaust temp is at. Then start backing off the fuel until the egt levels out and starts going up. This means that you've hit stochiometry and have gone into the lean area. Then bring the fuel back up by a hair so that you're in the rich side, but not by much.

 

Was your boost gauge Y connected to your BOV?

 

Soo....if I will eventually be getting an upgraded turbo (GReddy turbo kit) should I go with a haltech right off the bat? Can I actually tune it or would someone else (performance shop) have to do it?