2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

throttle response

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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 08:05 PM
  #1  
Swolbynos's Avatar
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From: Yukon, OK
throttle response

the car: 1988 Rx-7 GXL 59,000 miles

the mods: double throttle blades removed, punched out cats, new plugs and fuel filter.

the problem: the car does not idle, but i can hold it at idle. it has compression on all faces i think b/c i think i can hear all the pulses at ~500 rpms. when i use very little throttle it is fine, as in barely accelerate at all it runs fine. any more than 5% throttle and the car gets louder but doesnt accelerate faster.

also it barely has the power to use 5th gear. i know it is running rich b/c it backfires EVERY time i let off the gas.

does anyone have any ideas/suggestions on what is wrong or how to fix it?

Thanks

Nathan
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 10:10 PM
  #2  
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From: Yukon, OK
bump
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 10:34 PM
  #3  
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From: Coldspring TX
Start with a TPS check/adjustment. You just removed the first set of throttle plates, the secondaries are still in there, right?
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 07:20 AM
  #4  
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From: Yukon, OK
yes, i checked the RPs, and mazda says they should be 1000 ohms with the throttle closed and 5000 with it at WOT.

mine is at 1500 closed and 4500 WOT. should it gradually go up from 1-5k? mine was 4500 untill almost no throttle then it drops to the 1500.

also, how do i adjust it?
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 10:11 AM
  #5  
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From: Toronto
You adjust it by turning the throttle sensor adjust screw--see FSM 4B-49 (TII) or FSM 4A-50 (NA).
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 02:07 PM
  #6  
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From: Raleigh, NC
Dunno, what the prob. is but i have the same thing going on. Part of the problem turned out to be my O2 sensor and that helped a little once it was fixed. I put some new plugs in and changed the wires and that gave me a fairly dramatic power improvement but i'm still not where i should be. Well, good luck and i'll be sure to post if i find anything else out that i think could be helpful.
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 02:28 PM
  #7  
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From: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
Got a "check engine" light?
Blink the codes.
Look for a thermo sensor connector problem.
If the ECU thinks you have a cold engine, it will make your engine run like it's stone cold.

TPS test & set:
Using test lights or voltage at idle readings will get your idle setting perfect, but you could still have a worn out TPS resistor.
-The golden test:
Unplug the TPS connector.
Clip a cheap analog (needle type) VOM on the orange & black pins.
Set it to the 1K scale.
Hold off the throttle & work the short range TPS plunger in & out.
You should see a smooth sweep from ~0 to ~5K ohms.
Any bad spots or drop outs in the stroke - it's bad & will give fuel cuts at part throttle.
(Before you toss it, try spray contact cleaner between the sleeve & plunger.)
- Then set it:
Find the fast idle (warm-up) cam & back it off so the throttle sits on the hard idle stop.
Adjust the setting to 1K ohms.
While holding off the fast idle cam, open & close the throttle a few times to see that the 1K setting repeats.

Last edited by SureShot; Nov 23, 2004 at 02:31 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 09:20 PM
  #8  
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From: Yukon, OK
no codes, i wish there were some so i would know where to look.

ok so after i get the TPS set i will get a new O2 sensor on and... ill get back to yall after that.
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