alxdacrow

Hi guys,
Anyone know where can I purchase this special made Aluminium Thermostat Neck come with the water temp soket for FC3S S5?

Saw this thing is an old magazine. Company who made this is Pan-Speed. I cant seems to find it in the internet.....

Any info on this?

Thanks....

mrehrhar

I know you can purchase an aftermarket aluminum tstat housing from mazdatrix.com for about $110 but im not sure about the water temp soket????

t24todd

iTrader: (7)

y dont you take your exsisting water pump housing(right behind water pump), buy a universal sensor or aftermarket water temp gauge and sensor will come with it then tap into the housing with correct size tap...soder on a wire to the sensor then connect to your gauge to the wire..wa la. thats what i did and it cost me about 75 for the gauge/tap/sensor

NZConvertible

No such thing. S5's don't have a temp sensor in the stock plastic neck, so none of the aftermarket aluminium replacements have one either.

fastrotaries

you're going to have to make one.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Don't mean to hijack the thread but my thermostat housing gasket is leaking and the dealer installed it in April.They have a 12 month warranty on their parts and am wondering if the failing gasket falls within the guidelines of the warranty.I will eventually find out next week when the new gasket arrives and they replace it.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

After my plastic stock one sprung a leak on the dyno I got an AL mazdatrix one and had a bung welded on for the temp sensor for my aftermarket water temp guage. Here is a pic.

BLK FC3S

Is your PS belt on upside down or is that some sort of different belt I've never seen?

HAILERS

http://www.mazdatrix.com/b8.htm

15-1720-ALUM

Black91n/a

It's better to just take the water pump off and drill and tap the back of it for a temp sensor. That way you get temp readings no matter what the thermostat is doing and you'll know if it fails closed. It's not hard to do, and is cheaper than buying an aluminum neck. Depending on how thick it is on the neck, it'd be a good idea to weld a bung on like shown, rather than just drill and tap it, which could cause leaking if it's not that thick.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

Nope, its on correctly.






If you have an S5 with the OEM plastic Tstat housing then an AL replacement is always a good idea. But as Black91n/a says the best place for a temp sensor is the water pump housing.

Elbi

iTrader: (1)

Does it matter where on the back of the WPhousing to tap it?...

NZConvertible

Given that a new plastic one will most likely last as long as the original (i.e. it'll outlast the car...) there's no real reliability advantage to using an aluminium one.

Black91n/a

There's a boss on the back of the pump, right by the other sensor, that's where I tapped mine.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I think you have to be careful doing this...depending on the sensor, it may foul the thermostat when fully screwed in.

Anyway, if all you want is a spot to add another sensor there are other options...
You can adapt a housing from another car (in this case a Mitsubishi, IIRC) which also has the added advantage of being alloy instead of plastic...

Or you can mount the sensor down here (easier if PS & AC have been removed but possible even if they haven't)...


I have run water temp sensors in both locations.
Both spots will track identically with a sending unit in the stock location but the first pic version (which locates the sender above the thermostat) takes a bit longer to activate as it must wait for the thermostat to open.

I was testing the different location's water temp readings to decide where I wanted to locate the thermoswitch trigger for my efan.
Ultimately, it ended up in the lower front iron spot because the wiring was neater and less obtrusive there.

After finalizing the efan switch I hooked the stock water temp gauge back up and also ran an aftermarket gauge with the sender in the thermostat housing.

Just FYI...the stock S5 gauge (which is "normal" at the halfway mark), reads 1/2 starting at @ 170° F and stays there till at least 220° F.
I didn't run it any hotter to see just how bad it has to get before the gauge starts to indicate a problem but you should be aware of how terribly non-linear the stock gauge is.

Black91n/a

Where I tapped it on that boss there's no problems with interferance. IIRC it's off to the side and inside a passageway, so not a problem. There's plenty of meat to tap for a good seal and the sensor is fully immersed.

If you're doing this not during a rebuild you can take the pump off to clean out all the shavings, while there might be some residuals in the engine if you tap the iron while the engine's together, and I've also heard of people cracking the irons when using pipe taps (albeit with bigger taps). So be careful if you decide to go this route.

NZConvertible

Like Clokker said, it depends on the sensor. I initially installed my temp gauge sensor there and it prevented the thermostat from being reinstalled. Winding the sensor out until it cleared the thermostat left very little of the sensor exposed to coolant flow.

I drilled out one of the air pump mounted holes, tapped it and ground away the metal that was covering the sensor. Pics and info here:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...42#post5346642

phoenix7

well the OEM will cost $116 from MAzda while the Mazdatrix should be ~$126. Plastic vs. aluminum.
The plastic one might last anoth 160K miles but there is something about the metal one that makes me feel better.

If I had to do it all over again I'd waste the extra cash and get the Aluminum one.

Black91n/a

Would it also depend on whether it's an S4 or S5? IIRC mine looked diffrent from the back.

phoenix7

the S4's have metal necks but they are 2 bolts while the original S5 was FG/plastic with 3 bolts. Some other guy on the forum was making a special spacer to use an S4 T-stat neck on an S5.

NZConvertible

Mazdatrix list the plastic one for $65 and the aluminium one for $121.

phoenix7

yeah, when mine broke i had to choose:
The mazdatrix for 65 bux with a wait of at least a week
or
the Mazda that was in stock and ready to pick up that day.


I sucked it up and bought MAzda but in the end it cost as much as the Aluminum one. Hindsight is 20/20

paramer 22

before the thermo stat is the best place for an accurate reading