My baby is a 1986 NA Base model. And it's as the title states... I need a CHEAP rotary mechanic to diagnose my car's troubles. (The closer to Burlington/Hamilton, the better.)

I've got issues with my idle... and tranny... and gas tank... and exhaust... But I'm only really concerned right now with the idle. The other stuff, I have solutions for/am forever saving up for...

Point is, she wont idle until she's reached running temp. And sadly, when warm, the idle can at best be described as, "erratic."

Unfortunately, I dont really have wads of cash right now to spend on new parts, and I don't really have the tools/knowhow to check a lot of the sensors. My buddy and I, have checked for a leak using carb cleaner a few times now, and that hasn't yeilded any results. I've tried changing the O2 sensor, the air filter, the spark plugs and wires, and the BAC valve. None of that has fixed the idle either.

I was just about to try the ATF trick before I found Aaron Cake's webpage, describing how ATF eats away at the oil seals somewhere in the engine. Apparently, it's only supposed to be used on engines that are on their last legs. My engine has 55,000kms on it. The car itself has about 205,00kms on it. Anyways, thats why I didn't do the ATF trick. Anyone wanna suggest the next step?

Thanks guys!

P.S. One of the 6 previous owners of the car took out the smog pump. Could something have gone wrong there that could be causing my idle to be erratic?

 

www.rotarydynamics.ca is in Oakville.

 

one thing that you will learn, and i have learned.

to own an rx7 like this you get two things-

an older model vehicle- means money and time invested to keep it running right

a rare vehicle that makes people go 'wtf is that'- learn to work on it yourself, take the time to study EVERYTHING on this forum, and you will find the answer here...

 

rotary and cheap usually dont walk hand in hand and they hardly mingle , when they do it doesnt bode well

 

Let alone "cheap" and "mechanic". There's a reason people say you get what you pay for.

 

exactly

i tell people not to buy ford, hyundai, kia, daewoo... (some ford products are better then others)

me and the ex would constantly argue over that, i say 'you get what you pay for' she says 'cheaper is better'

 

hey ford can handle a serious beating , my explorer has been drifted mudding and quite frankly well beat to shyte , she still keeps rolling with 171k

 

It's a fluke, lol.

 

yea right Exploders United , i know of atleast ten people in york county maine with over 200k.
#1 selling suv for 10 years for a reason

 

nope. i can second that. i've done some prett crazy shi t in mine and it runs like a top still, even with a blown head gasket

 

thank you,at least some one else understands anyways back on topic get a haynes manual and down load the fsm in the faq ,with that common sense and a few questions here and there you can get your car back in perfect shape .

 

If you have a set of sockets at your disposal and any free time available, then you are the cheapest rotary mechanic you're ever going to find.

FSM: http://www.rx7city.com/techconnect.htm

First thing you should probably do is a compression test. (compression testers are around $20-30, cheaper then a looksie from any mechanic)

Have you checked the BAC and TPS to make sure they are both working and set correctly?

After all of those things if your idle is still erratic, then you need to get into the throttle body and do some tweaking (thermowax replace/removal, and/or adjust the butterflies according the FSM)

 

sorry that website doesn't seem to host the FSM anymore. Here is a one that is up and working. http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/index.html

 

Talk to ClassicAuto (Joe Phillips). I think he's near your area. He may be able to get you straightened out.

 

Remember you get what you pay for!