i thought i read a little bit ago, a way to change the way the s4 n/a actuates the aux ports? cause im sick of tryin to build an exhaust on a budget, while maintaining the air line.
itd be a thousand times easier to run a custom exhaust (that i dont have to worry about that damn air line) and then setup another way to actuate the ports.

does anyone know off hand the alternative(s) to the s4 n/a 6port activation?

thanks much

 

You can use the air pump.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...actuation.html

 

do you know how?

or is there a kit to buy?

 

You have to use those actuators if you want to use some sort of air pump. There is no kit you can buy yet. The setup on Rotaryresurection.com looks ugly, i never liked it but its the usual way you would activate them.

You can use a lumbar air pump which pumps out 3.5-5.5psi (measured) more then enough to activate smooth rotating actuators, rods and sleeves.

The lumbar air pump will last about 5 minutes continuously running with no pressure load (not hooked up to anything). I tested this pump when the air temp was around 70*F in a barn (Garage) with the engine off. I was not impressed but if your not driving over 3800 all day long then you wont have a problem.

You could also go fully electronic with Steves design. Its pricey to buy all the parts but it seems to work really good for him with no issues and I think is by far the best design ever.
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=46&co=1&vi=1

OR, worst case, if you want a high flow exhaust and don't have a way of activating the ports, you can wire them open till you have a design in mind or till you buy everything you need to activate them correctly. This will make you loose low end and is not reccomended.

 

quick thought... aren't s5's actuated via air pump? would an s5 setup work with the s4, has ayone tried it ? ever thought of it? or knows enough not to?

 

S5 are operated by the belt driven air pump. Not an ecconomical solution when only using it for the ports.

 

anyone have pics of the setup recommended on rotary ressurection?

 

You need an RPM switch like the one from SUMMITRACING to activate a common solenoid. Common solenoid means on like the ones located on the left of your engine.

A simple barbed nipple puncturing the hose b/t the ACV and the airpump would be the source of air to one port on the solenoid. The outlet port on the solenoid would go to the pipe that feeds the auxillary port actuators.

The airpump uses zip in the way of hp, so use it as the air source.

 

Thanks, I sorta like that solution too! I have yet to apply it to the aux ports though, for now only the VDI. In fact, I just added a note to the top of the write-up since the title says "Aux and VDI"; I have a feeling the solenoid won't be happy near the exhaust manifold, so I might need to get "clever" with cables or something. Unfortunately, that's in line behind a few other projects for me right now.

 

Yea, I don't know how the electronic solenoid would be next to the exhaust.

But, I am doing lumbar pump and RPM switch from summitracing. It took me 3 months to get the RPM switch because of back-order. I am using the lumbar because I don't usually sit at above 3800 for more then 5 minutes. I like saving my gas money.

Good luck!

P.S. Want to do something funny? Hide your lumbar pump. T into the Aux ports and put a boost gauge in your car... take your friends for a ride, and when the Aux kick in, you will boost a little on the gauge. LoL. Then your friends will say.. when did you get a turbo? Then let them look around the engine for a while trying to find your "Turbo". LoL. It can be funny. Wouldn't permanently keep the boost gauge in your car though. That is lame. Just fun to mess with friends.

 

There is at least 1 thread on this in the archive too you know.

 

thanks man, i searched before and it didnt come up. didnt think to look there

 

Ya no problem bud. I really like that solution.

Just a suggestion for the exhaust heat, you could make a dual layer heat shield over the manifold. I say dual layer because air can flow through the 2 layers and less heat will be radiated from the outer layer. Shouldn't be to hard to make. I suppose if you wanted to and if that wasn't enough and it was still getting to hot, you could run the cold side engine coolent through a sealed 2 layer heat shield

Either that or you could mount the solenoids up high near the UIM and buy a hollow 3/16" OD or smaller tube and flatten the ends to allow a hole to be drilled. This rod would go from the solenoid down to the AUX port rods.

Be carefull with the summit racing switches. The one I used years ago ramped the voltage and always made my Radioshack relay get stuck in the open position. Don't feel like going into detail about hot it gets stuck. Most relays are designed better inside and you shouldn't have a problem. Just an FYI.

 

I've been planning on using this one fo the VDI myself. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

I have been thinking about this for a while since I would like to get rid of my air pump... I came up with a theoretical design… I am not sure how well it would work but if it did, it would be simpler to hook up, cheaper and better looking from what I can tell…
Here is my thought on it… If anyone sees wholes in this plan let me know…

Buy:
Air Horn Set for the compressor (About $10 from Harbor Freight)
T-Fitting (Small enough to fit the vac lines)
Vacuum Line

Instructions:
1. Disconnect the switch that opens and closes the airflow to the aux actuators… This would be one of the little black solenoid type things that sits in the group of about 4 or 5 almost identical solenoid switches at the front drivers side of the engine…
2. Use the electrical connector from that solenoid switch to power the air horn compressor that would be mounted on the driver’s side near that switch somewhere…
3. Run the air line from the compressor to the T-Fitting then from each of the other 2 ends of the Fitting to each actuator…
***you may have to buy a valve to regulate the air pressure…

I have not tried it so I am not sure if it will work… If it would or would not feel free to let me know… I am not trying to thread jack… Just trying to offer a possible inexpensive and simple solution to the original poster’s problem…

 

A 12v pump is not likely to be able to withstand a lot of hard driving

 

The amount of testing I have done with a 12v lumbar air pump, proves its self worthy except for while its running for over 5 minutes.

 

Done it and don't like it. Most air horn compressors output fittings are tappered with no barbs so the vac line can pop right off even with a clamp or zip tie. Also the horn is very loud and is get VERY HOT very quick.

Also, the air horn compressors I have used don't have an air bypass which means you have to allow excess air from the compressor to bleed off.