Testing convertible motors
10-31-06, 10:48 AM
#1
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
Thread Starter
Testing convertible motors
I just purchased 2 convertible mortors from ebay. The seller said they should be working. However I would like to test them to make sure they do work before I install them. I have the means to plug them into 12VDC. I see the wire harness plug on them. I just need to know what one to plug in the 12V+ and what to plug in the 12V-. Thanks!
11-01-06, 10:02 AM
#3
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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Whatever you decide to do, make sure the mortor isn't pointing straight up when you test it.
I really don't see what your going to do with a 12v source of power. Just drop the shell down the tube and get your hands out of the way. No elect power required.
I really don't see what your going to do with a 12v source of power. Just drop the shell down the tube and get your hands out of the way. No elect power required.
11-01-06, 11:08 AM
#4
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
Thread Starter
I saw some stuff in the FSM. I will try the trouble shooting part 1st. (like I should have before I purchaesed the motors) Then I will replace if necessary.
Are there any pitfalls I should be weary of when I replace these? Other then the afore mentioned. Thanks!
Matt|ttaM
Are there any pitfalls I should be weary of when I replace these? Other then the afore mentioned. Thanks!
Matt|ttaM
11-01-06, 11:32 AM
#5
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
Thread Starter
Usually what is the problem when the roof won't go up? The previous owner disabled the motors to make the roof a manual one. I have been dealing with that for about a year. Now the fabric has begun to rip due to the stress and not being folded correctly.
When I press the convertible top, (after pulling up the e brake) I hear the beeping that means it should be raising it. However I do not hear the morots spinning or anything else.
As always any and all help is appriciated.
Matt|ttaM
When I press the convertible top, (after pulling up the e brake) I hear the beeping that means it should be raising it. However I do not hear the morots spinning or anything else.
As always any and all help is appriciated.
Matt|ttaM
11-06-06, 04:40 PM
#6
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
Thread Starter
I fixed it. I tested all the voltages in the check terminal. As recommended in the FSM. All the voltages tested fine. So I reengaged the motors, and pressed the switch. They worked! After a year of owning the car, and manually putting up and down the top, I had a working convertible system all along! And to think, if I had figured out this sooner, my roof wouldn't have the tears in it! O well Live and learn!
Last edited by Tiderfish; 11-06-06 at 04:53 PM. Reason: Spell check.
11-06-06, 06:14 PM
#7
Rotary Freak
What is the difference in the folding when the top is put down manually or by the motors?
It is still connected to the frame the same way, and should fold the same way. Shouldn't it?
It is still connected to the frame the same way, and should fold the same way. Shouldn't it?
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11-07-06, 01:36 PM
#8
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by BLKTOPTRVL
What is the difference in the folding when the top is put down manually or by the motors?
It is still connected to the frame the same way, and should fold the same way. Shouldn't it?
It is still connected to the frame the same way, and should fold the same way. Shouldn't it?
Also, when I was raising and lowering the roof manually 2 tears in the top of the fabric formed and every time I raised and lowered it, they got a little bigger. At the moment they are about 6 to 8 inches long.
Finally. When closing the roof, it is very hard to get the fabric to stretch to lock the roof into place. Once cold it is even harder to close the top. To close the top you also have to get out of the car.
The cons to having the motors working, are it takes much more time to put the roof down.
Matt|ttaM
11-08-06, 01:50 PM
#9
Rotary Freak
I don't think the folding or tearing issues are related to the motor. Yes, you need the motors to use the top in targa mode, but the path of the roof and the fold pattern cannot be any different.
The issue you are having with the cold is due to the fact that Mazda does not recommend moving the top at below ~35 degrees (I forget the actual figure).
The issue you are having with the cold is due to the fact that Mazda does not recommend moving the top at below ~35 degrees (I forget the actual figure).
11-08-06, 03:13 PM
#10
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
Thread Starter
It has not been near 35 degrees around here, since the holes showed up. When the top is manually lowered, I dont think the bar that holds up the window travels the same when it is lowered or raised manually. I had another vert and the top always worked fine, and it's fabric never ripped.
11-08-06, 08:16 PM
#11
Rotary Freak
Interesting. Maybe the top wass already dryrotted. I've had mine replaced three times now, and it doesn't seem to get any less expensive.
A garage is the best thing for them though. Good luck with it.
A garage is the best thing for them though. Good luck with it.
11-09-06, 03:44 PM
#12
FC3C 90, PGT 89.
Thread Starter
Thanks. That is what I want in a house. I have never had a garage. Unfortunatly I live in Baltimore MD, so there arn't very many houses with garages around. I have also considered renting someone's garage. It just depends on the owner. Not sure if I'd trust my car is some random person's garage.
11-09-06, 06:11 PM
#14
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by Tiderfish
Thanks. That is what I want in a house. I have never had a garage. Unfortunatly I live in Baltimore MD, so there arn't very many houses with garages around. I have also considered renting someone's garage. It just depends on the owner. Not sure if I'd trust my car is some random person's garage.
In the 11 years since moving to the South and getting a garage, it's been replace only once (after getting ripped in a t-bone accident) and is still is going strong.
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