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Im rebuilding my stock FC (88 GXL NA). Im keeping it all stock (emissions and all) and Im in the middle of cleaning the intake and took the time to measure the resistance on my AFM using my multimeter.
For reference Im using this page from the FSM to do this - so every metric checks out except, unfortunately, my E2 pin -> VC pin. This is supposed to measure between 100 - 300ohms but im getting 0 resistance.
Is this something I can open up and fix? Im thinking of heating the silicone bead around the black cover but once I get it opened im not sure what to look for.
Edit - Im reading a lot of people say not to mess with the AFM and im certainly trying to avoid opening it up if possible.
Last edited by maaaaackle; Jul 11, 2024 at 04:24 PM.
One of the popular modifications for the early 1.6 miatas was to swap it out with the RX7 unit, they are exactly the same in every way except that the RX7 one is about 1/2"-3"4 taller, meaning it flowed more air when fully open. Trick was to pop the block plastic cover off, and then tighten the spring a couple notches to mimic the miata air flow at idle, and with a turbocharger (this was still very much bandaid era) it would not be an air restriction. I know this because that is what I did on mine in the early 2000's before I went to Megasquirt ECUs
Going to a miata unit would "work" but would choke the car out at high RPM.
I run a MS3 Megasquirt on both of my cars now 1.8 miata and 87 RX7, and for the RX7, I have 3D printed a part out of PETG that replaces that air flapper door air flow meter.
Sorry - i forgot to take pictures but yeah, I used an XACTO knife and sliced open the sealant around the black covering and there, as expected, the solder was old and cracked where i had the test terminals in my original post.
I sent it off to geespecautomotive to see if he can help with resoldering