Makenzie71

My injectors leak...badly I suppose because the car won't start after it's been warmed up and killed. So I'm looking for temp solutions.

Right now the best idea I've got is to install a fuel cut-off switch in the cabin. instead of just turning the key off, I flip the switch, and starve the engine. Would that have any negtive effects?

Also, since I'm looking at replacing, I have options of stock 460's and then 550's. I don't really want to go bigger at the moment because I don't want to invest in a fuel controller or stand-alone...at the moment. But I can get either size for roughly the same price. Would the 550's bolt up without needing anything else done? Or should I stick with the 460's?

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

You can try some heavy duty injector cleaner. 3M makes some preaty good stuff from what i have been told, but there might be better i dont know.

The best bet is to have a kill switch like you have right now. You wont have any negative effects by using it.

If you are staying naturally aspirated, there is no use for upgrading your injectors. They are good up to about 250hp. The N/A's run rich enough already!

By the way, if you have an S5, all you need to do is floor the gas pedal to shut the fuel pump off.

Makenzie71

'88 Tii.

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

mazdatrix.com also has a temp solution. but kill switch is cheaper.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Oh, you got a TII. You were talking about 460's like you had an N/A. The turbo's come stock with 550's.

NZConvertible

Stick with that. If the injectors are as bad as you say, you should be getting the professionally cleaned ASAP. It's not worth spending more than a few dollars on a band-aid switch for something you should be aiming to fix in the near future.

Don't bother with in-tank cleaners, they won't touch this problem.

If you have a TII 460's are not an option...

Makenzie71

Thanks Jason and Smoken (I'm didn't see your post earlier)!!

For some reason I was under the impression that the stock TII's had 460's...I think I picked it up from MKIII turbo supras having 440's. I've been informed that they're 550's and I've been looking for another set I can nab all evening...it's sunday, though.

RETed

Why don't you just use the switch AFTER it's flooded only?


-Ted

Makenzie71

because I hate cranking on my battery...but that'd be effective, too. Last night she died on me and the unlood proceedure wasn't nearly as tedious and "crank-involved" as it used to be on my SE.

Bukwild

if its a 88 t2 you can reach under the dash with your right hand and find a white harness plug. Unplugging this will kill the fuel pump from inside the car. The plug can be reached rather easily from the drivers seat.
Step 1. After the car floods out reach down and unplug it.

step 2. Now the car will start and then die in a few seconds after all the fuel is burned out.

step 3. Plug the harness back in and start the car again. And drive away. Now if you do this a few times you will get good at plugging it back in before the car dies.

I would recommend getting a fuel cut off switch down the road but if it ever fails on you this is a great method. Also this is a great anti-theft device. Most small timers won't figure this one out where they can trace a fuel cut switch under the hood and get your car.
Auto theives 0 me 1.

piscorpio

If it is only a hot-start problem, get a compression test first. I had flooding issues, had the kill switch, tried the in-tank crap (cuz I had some free stuff), and even sent my injectors out to RC engineering to be cleaned, balanced, etc. The cleaning seemed to work at first, but now I have hot-start issues, leaving me to wonder if it is simply a compression issue or the injectors are just bad again. In light of this, if I had it to do over again, I would do a compression test first on any rotary that has flooding or start up issues, before trying to throw money at the problem with various band-aids.

I have read a couple of instances were sending injectors in for cleaning only temporarily fixed the problem, so perhaps new injectors are the only sure fix? If I get a compression check done in the next couple of weeks, I will have a better idea if thats the case.

NZConvertible

Probably because compression was also low. If the injectors are professionally cleaned they would also be leak tested, and if they pass the leak test it's highly unlikely they could cause flooding problems.

Makenzie71

Yeah I can assure you the flooding issue is due to leaky injectors...even the area right around the injectors stays "damp"...hazerdous...can't wait for the new ones...

Jason, I've got another thread a few hits down about diagnosing some more of this stuff...would you mind hitting it up?